garczar said:

I went to DCC in '07, played on red labels, and heard ZERO complaints from any players. I watched the filipinos play basically perfect pool in all games. No whining. But you come on a internet forum and the lurkers whine and bitch like they know something. Hey, folks ever thought that maybe you suck??

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Well there are feel players and deliberate players. I CAN play fine on a red label, but I still hate playing on them. There's a reason they don't make them any more.

Paul_#_ said:

I like the moosehead at our table because its the tallest bridge there. The Hitchiker is taller than PoolDawg's Moosehead (photos show Hitchiker 5-1/4" vs PoolDawg's Moosehead 4" ). I would have to work with the Hitchiker to see if its ability to pivot is a major advantage. The Moosehead I use now is loose on the cue-stick holder --- the Hitchhiker would be better than that.

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The Hitchhiker does not pivot. Only the Interstate model has the pivoting head.

straightline said:

Insures you walk on the part with the most cracking leverage.

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...and the least rotational force.

SSDiver2112 said:

Thoroughbreds are nice tip, but I haven't used one on a Kielwood. I'm sure it would be fine.

I used Med Ivory Ultraskin without issue I could notice. I decided to try out an SIB soft cool blue tip. First soft I've tried and I do like it so far.

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Medium Fire Ultraskin on this one. The owner is very happy with it.

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Rick,

I think it is time to do business for a fancy SP cue with KW shaft, probably a radial or 3/8 pin. I’ll send you a PM.

Matt

straightline said:

Wrapless. Even spray lacquered the 2 or three wrapped ones I have.

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I have 2 jerry olivier cues, one wrapless and one with a linen wrap. I bought the wrapped thinking I'd use that as my player, and move the wrapless to a break cue. But I've found that I prefer the wrapless for playing. I like the feel, and it's less distracting when I grab near the end of the cue. (I'm on the tall side.)

Is spray lacquering a wrapped cue a DIY job? Or should this go to a cue guy? I love the looks and playing of my wrapped cue, and would like to avoid the mess of selling it and buying a new player.

I mostly agree with garczar’s posts but I beg to differ. When I see players spending well over a grand for just only a break cue, more like $1300, and also carry multiple CF shafts, players are spending a lot of money already. Now custom cues do cost more but having a cue built the way you want it made, to your exact specifications, doesn’t have to cost many thousands of dollars unless you want a fancy design. Personally, I’d rather spend $1500-$2k on a custom made SP with fancy rings and Kielwood shafts. I’d pick a nice wood and have the cue built to my exact specs. It would play better than buying a used custom cue for more money that did not have all the specs I wanted so why would I settle for less? The appearance of a cue has nothing to do with how it plays versus how the cue was built…..IMO.

RidgeRaider said:

Better question - Is it worth it?

Wood really isn't expensive, especially wood from a desk. I'd imagine less headache and cheaper in the long haul to just buy good wood.

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You have a good point.
Unless you have some important or OLD wood, it's not really worth the hassle to repurpose an old desk.
An example would be that when I built my first house I had come across a seller that was offering up some reclaimed marble from a 200 year old library. It was 1.75" thick. My construction consultant thought I was nuts for wanting it because marble tiles were so cheap to install in comparison. I would have loved to have had that marble as the main floor and extending it to the front porch but, ultimately it was just too expensive to get it from the East coast to the West coast.

So, if the desk was 200 years old, from someplace historic, it would be worth it. Otherwise, bag it.