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Shaft suggestions

muskyed
I got a Jacoby Kielwood shaft a few months back that is what you are asking for. I have their Ultra shafts also and two versions of the Rhino shafts for my Jacobys. They definitely have a crisper hit and seem to be high energy.
The Kielwood shaft was too light for me, about 3.55 oz, so I installed a 5/16" pin of apx .3 oz just in front of where the butt pin screws in. I also changed the tip to a Ultraskin black med, and tapered it down from the 12.75 mm it came to 12.5mm to match my Ultra and Rhino shafts. I really like that Kielwood shaft.
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Solid vs layered tips

muskyed
Sheldon said:
Tip tools are a repair person's best friend. Most people don't realize just how abrasive (most) chalk is, and that if they chalk properly and regularly, shaping and scuffing your tip is not going to be necessary. I have a friend who chalks somewhat excessively, and can take a tip down to the ferrule in around 6 months without ever touching a tip tool. I've also seen hard ferrules ground to an hourglass shape with chalk. Most people I see using tip tools are greatly and unnecessarily reducing the life of their tips.
A tool is warranted if you're using a non abrasive chalk like Kamui.
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Ha Ha, I've replaced some of those ferrules for a couple bars that I go to, also some ferrules where the tip had come off a long time ago and they chalked the ferrule enough to shape it like a tip. Funny stuff you come across at times.
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Illuminated Cueing arts vs Projection Pro Billiards systems (ICATS vs PPB)

JolietJames
I had a $10 mini spotlight mounted to the ceiling in my room in AZ.
I used clear rings for ball positions and the spotlight for the landing area.
Setting up the positions for Bert's shots took less than an hour and I was all set.
Moving from drill to drill after that took only seconds to place the balls and aim the light.
I realize this is not helpful to the OP but wanted to share an alternative to those who prefer pool to Tron.
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