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Kamui Tips Q/A

GideonF
KamuiInsider said:
I'll take that under advisement! There are many reason for a tip glazing. There's natural and unnatural reasons. The natural reason is people hit hard when using english(or in general) causing lots of heat and friction and compressing the fibers. Also humidity plays a factor. The unnatural reason is typically a mixture of abrasive chalk, tip picking, and VERY abrasive tip tools in general. I'm not saying that it's impossible that kamui tips have a glazing issue, but it does sometimes depend on the player. Yes, aggressive tip tools temporarily adds texture, but gives more room for the fibers to compress. I'd love to recommend the gator grip or dragon tongue, but they're not in production right now. -.- When I was playing 4 days a week, I would only have to scuff maybe 3 times a month, but I do have a softer hit. I have had people switch chalk and the problem stopped. I've had people where the problem didn't go away. I've had people that have never had a glazing issue. There's a lot of factors, BUT I am bringing each of these issues up to Japan to see if their response is any different than mine. And if they are, I will follow up accordingly!
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I haven’t used Kamui tips, but it certainly does seem many people have had issues with glazing (not just non here but I’ve heard similar complaints locally) - much more than with other brands. Hopefully Japan can shed some light on this!
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Thoughts on players who seemingly take Zero practice strokes, before shooting / final follow through?

Jaden
sparkle84 said:
No, unfortunately it didn't clear up anything for me. Clarifying after the fact that your example was only meant for a certain group of people, while misleading, I don't really care about that.
We (or should I say you) are talking about the fact that "The only benefit to ld technology is that CBs path is closer to the original aimline, so the deviation for adjusting for side spin is less." While I don't totally agree I'm willing to ignore that also.

Once you add in "Any time an adjustment is finer in scope it will be less affected by uncontrollable variables, like dirty balls, cloth, or environmental conditions like excess humidity, extremely dry conditions, etc." is where it goes off the rails for me.

IMO, with lower deflection shafts the main benefit is (which you've said numerous times) less squirt. The things highlighted above in red, again IMO, have zero to do with amount of squirt.
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First off, stop with the hostile attitude. I don't HAVE to clarify. If I do, it's out of the good will of my heart. I don't give a $h17, (if all of a sudden it's turned into an argument), about winning. I know I'm right. I've meted it out over years playing in multiple conditions with different types of equipment, I honestly don't give a $h17 what you think. Everything I post on this forum is only to help other people.

If you have an honest question and interest in what I'm saying, fine, don't get an attitude with me please. If you're just of a mind to creating problems or attempting to prove me wrong, I'm not interested, go find someone else. I'll just stop responding and/or put you on ignore and continue to give information to the people who care and want to improve or I won't. It's not to my benefit and it doesn't matter to me one way or the other.

Now, are you interested in hearing an answer, or creating more tension and drama?
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Cue ID

Chopdoc
PDX said:
I know you have a very long history with cues and this forum and I respect your insight, though can you point me to a production cue that uses black linen phenolic? I haven’t followed cues as much as I use to, and to be fair, I haven’t paid attention to production cues that are made after 93.
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Many production cues used black linen phenolic, including Taiwan Kao cues.

I'll post an example later. Watching a movie with The Crazy Redhead 🤪
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