Where is the contact point, considering tip compression

may technically change but reality your ball still goes where you aim and acts naturally.

generally when i put on a new tip i put the whole big flat top 14mm thing on, and shoot unchanged for a time with it to let it break in. then a start slowly cutting pieces off it.

and i find i play my same speed with all the different configurations.

this also confirms in my mind how little your shape and size of tip really matters in actual play.

Possible Abe Rich Merry Widow — Looking for Confirmation

I recently picked up this older Merry Widow and, after going through the construction pretty closely and comparing it directly with two known Rich cues I own, I’m leaning pretty strongly toward Abe Rich. I’d appreciate opinions from anyone familiar with Abe’s work, particularly if you see something that would rule him out.

The joint is 5/16-18 and is directly compatible with both of my known Rich cues—the shafts and butts will interchange and thread properly. The cue measures approximately .830” at both the butt and shaft joint faces. The joint pin projects approximately .71” above the joint face.

The original shaft appears to have had a wood-over-brass pilot. The wooden portion has broken away, leaving the .410” brass threaded insert exposed. There is still a very distinct witness ring on the shaft face measuring approximately .57” across where the wooden portion of the pilot appears to have broken away. The receiving bore in the butt is also approximately the same diameter. One of my known Rich shafts uses essentially the same construction, with a .410” brass insert surrounded by its intact wooden pilot.

Where this cue differs noticeably from my known Rich cues is the unusually long joint pin and particularly the butt-end construction. It has what appears to be a Delrin butt cap with a separate recessed weight bolt and a solid domed push-in rubber bumper with no center screw hole. Both of my known Rich cues instead have screw-retained bumpers.

The cue is 58¾” overall including tip and bumper, with a 29” shaft measured from the joint face to the top of the ferrule, and a 29” butt measured from the joint face to the bottom edge of the butt sleeve prior to the bumper. The butt weighs 14.9 oz and the shaft 3.9 oz, for 18.8 oz total. The 1” ferrule measures 12.9 mm.

One other pleasant surprise is the overall condition. Aside from the missing wooden portion of the shaft pilot and the aging/wear to the brass joint collar, the cue is exceptionally well preserved. It also rolls dead straight—the butt, shaft and assembled cue all roll straight, without even any noticeable taper roll in the shaft.

Taken together—the Rich-compatible 5/16-18 joint architecture, original wood-over-brass pilot construction, unusually long pin, Delrin butt cap, independent weight-bolt system and solid push-in domed bumper—everything seems to be pointing me toward Abe rather than Rich Q.

Am I on the right track, or does anyone see something here that argues against Abe Rich?

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Breaking from the head spot

there was never a problem with the break rules.

however with new technology in the racks and racking, the break has changed to be a controlled shot for a certain ball, and a position one. instead of a power break and hold the cue ball someplace in the middle of the table.

so for the super pro players the game has changed dramatically.

If you live in the SouthWest beware of this HUSTLER.

sure he is a hustler. a guy trying to hustle up a game. he hustles with negotiation. just like you hustle at a rummage sale or someplace where you bargain at prices.

a con man will be a lair, cheat, or a thief, depending on how he gets his way with a customer.

a smart player will of course lie about how good he plays as most do when trying to make a game. only a fool pays attention to that.

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