do a blind teat and report back
in the meucci test you had pros for gods sake and they couldnt tell
what you can (i think ) tell is the weight and balancr of the butt and how the vibrations of the hit transfer to your hand
it's more than weight and balance, it's more than the joint pin or the joint collar.
Take two simple Plain Jane maple cues, with the same joint type, with the same weight and balance and compare with the exact same shaft, and you might feel a difference in the hit. Not all woods are the same, not all cue makers treat the wood the same, not all cues are constructed the same. just like old growth maple shaft feels different and plays different from fresh Chinese maple shaft (even it both are with the same taper, ferrule material and tip).
The joint type is part of the butt and between two equal butts (as much as possible) on terms of construction and specs it will make a noticeable difference.
I knew it was going to happen... I've ordered a new cue as well... nothing fancy or real expansive, just trying to settle on a player set that will work for me and leave the rest in a closet.
I've continued tinkering with the design over the past couple of years and have built several versions along the way. The latest uses a NEMA stepper motor, linear rails, a T8 leadscrew, a homemade half-nut mechanism, and quite a few 3D-printed components. I've also replaced several of the earlier improvised parts with more substantial components.
It's still built largely from inexpensive, readily available parts, which was the whole idea when I started.
I recently recorded a short video showing the current machine in operation: Login to view embedded mediaThis one has been customized to run right to left (rather then left to right) and to use a Unique Taper Bar.
I've also started working on a complete parts list and assembly instructions to see whether another hobbyist can reproduce the machine without having to figure everything out from scratch.
Still a work in progress, but I've learned alot and am having fun along the way.
If given ten cues with their joints covered how many do you think you could identify? Be surprised if anyone could pick three. Back when Mchesney did that test one player was a Meucci staff player and the cue he like the best turned out to be a steel joint Helmsetter. Stiffest cue i ever hit was a SW with that parabolic taper. Damn near unplayable imo.
If I was given 10 glasses of wine for blind tasting and asked which one is cabernet sauvignon, I would probably fail, but I could pick up a favorite and tell you why...
I agree that in such test it'll be impossible to guess the joint type, but I would be able to pick a favorite and explain why.
And again, I agree that SS doesn't mean stiffer or what not, but again I do feel that the butt make a different and contribute to how the cue feels. It's probably not just the joint but the sum of all it's parts and construction.
I just don't agree with the statement that the butt/joint don't matter and that it's all in the shaft. I don't need research to tell anything, I have my experience and enough equipment to put this to the test.
Factors like the tip/ferrule/taper have waaaaaay more to do than what the joint is. Way more. I've hit big pin phenolics that were sorta softish and others like a SW are stiff as a phone pole. Same joint types huge difference in hit. Not the joint.
I agree BUT I do feel from experience that the butt matters and change how the hit feels.
I too have SS jointed cues that feel softer than others. and as I mentioned, I have non metalic join that feels stiffer than SS.
That's why I say that it might be the whole butt and not just the joint that gives me that feedback.
As someone that can actually put the exact same shaft on different butts, I can totally say that the butt on all it's parts and construction matters. any cue maker will tel you the same
I have one cue with an ivory joint sleeve with a modified 3/8x10 pin. I find the hit too soft for my liking, don't know if it's the ivory, but putting the same shafts on other cues and the hit is a lot more stiffer, again, could be the butt construction as well.
For years, my favorite joint type was the classic 5/16x14 SS joint, I have several cues with that joint and my Schon STL3 was my main player for a few years, until I got an old Carmeli player with the old standard 3/8x10 pin and a black collar (not sure what it's made of), this cues has a solid and stiff hit, I have another custom with a modified 3/8x10 pin with a linen phenolic collar, which also very stiff.
and again, butt construction may have also something to do with it.
In the last year and a half, since I returned to the game, I've rotating between almost all my cues. And as for now, I find I don't like the SS joint that much, it does feel that it adds deflection a bit.
I like a stiff cue with a solid hit, and the flat faced wood to wood with some phenolic type collars seems to hit the spot. I've never tried Elforyn joint but from what I read, it's probably feels closer to phenolic/linen resin than SS or real ivory.
try it before knocking it.
things and recommendations always change. Like open bridge has become more popular these days. Even the post here on Hoppe instructional.
Bottom line you have to find what works for you and not what some instructor say, experiment.
For me, gripping like that makes my stroke straighter and I'm more accurate on those long shots on a 9ft with tight pockets. My power draw also works better.
try it before knocking it.
things and recommendations always change. Like open bridge has become more popular these days. Even the post here on Hoppe instructional.
Bottom line you have to find what works for you and not what some instructor say, experiment.
For me, gripping like that makes my stroke straighter and I'm more accurate on those long shots on a 9ft with tight pockets. My power draw also works better.
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