I just had to read this thread since I thought Jay Helfert were giving advice about hair... 
hairy tips
- Thread starter Solartje
- Start date
I just had to read this thread since I thought Jay Helfert were giving advice about hair...
Haven't you heard? Bald is Beautiful! Look around at all the shaved heads trying so hard to copy my original look. :thumbup:
jay
is this really way to high? its like 4-5mm. I took off 3-4 layers when i bought it and shaped it to a dome. Looks normal to meit had 11 layers originaly.
Keep those hairy balls advice coming :grin-square:
I agree it is a bit too tall, but you already stated the frequency you change tips is pretty quick. You'll be going through them a bit quicker.
I have glazing issues too, though less with soft layered tips. I thing it is because I cannot hit the ball easy.:shrug:
ok thanks for the advice guys
im a dy hard kamui too. I prefere them over sniper (even if sniper aint bad at all either)
ill trow the sandingpaper away, and find a tapper and a tippick.
woody: i love the way a tip comes with a new cue. Not hairy ofc :grin-square: but i dont know what other word to use. very tiny pieces of leather sticking out that grips the CB. i can get the same result with sandpaper but it wears my tip out far to fast.
I miscue ALOT (especially on shots where CB is close to the rail, and i want to use a level cue) i never feel comfortable playing these shots, as im scared as hell that i'll miscue.
Here is a pic of the the "hairy" part that im looking after in a tip, but this never last longer then 10 racks, before the tip is totally flat and looks glazed like the sides of the tip.
picture is from end of octobre, im down to the last layer and its march...
That's how I like my tips. I scuff lightly once every 10 racks, I'm someone that juices the CB a lot more than most.
What are milk duds? tip company?
Oh no he di-int :duck:
Sorry, the only milk duds I know of are the things that get stuck in your teeth at the movies.
IM not a tip savvy guy. I play bad with them all.
I did just the contrary
a tip is like a girlfriend. The better she looks, the more confidend it makes you. It takes alot of work to keep them perfect, but if you are taking them out, you all want them to look and play like a godess
Its not that i mind changing tips often. Perfect thing to do when i'm bored late at night. I prefere feeling confidend during a match, then being lazy at home. But as i thought i was buying to many tips, i tought i could get the same result, without all the work.
i read all the *insert forbidden word* threads, and know now where i can buy a good tip press. A friend bought me 2 kamui/moori softs yesterday, so i'll use them first, and try to use only a tapper and tippick. by the them they will be useless,
ill have enough $ saved to buy the tip press and experiment with the *insert forbidden word*I remember when playing snooker, the tip ALWAYS was hairy. they needed much less scuffing. Not sure if the elkmaster was the reason or the lightweight balls, are both. But i LOVED those tips. I did hate my first single layer lepro tip that came with my first poolcue. IT felt like a rock on a stick. I love a newly installed kamui or sniper like when it is on the picture, but i hate them after a month. I never seem to get the same roughness as when first installed. (ps i do power them up too when playing 9ball...)
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I'm not someone who does much with tips, in fact I never changed my own, I have the house guy do it. But I get some mileage out of my tips and no problems with them so I think I'm doing something right. I think using one of these is ideal.
I rough it up without applying a ton of pressure, but thoroughly, so that it gets VERY hairy. You want the thing to look like buckwheat's head afterwards. Not only does it trap a lot of chalk, but I think the extra 'hair' helps protect longer against glazing.
I rough it up without applying a ton of pressure, but thoroughly, so that it gets VERY hairy. You want the thing to look like buckwheat's head afterwards. Not only does it trap a lot of chalk, but I think the extra 'hair' helps protect longer against glazing.
I always have played with hard or med-hard tip (Le Pro, Triumph, etc.) . I think that they provide more consistency than soft tips. I try lately (last 3 years) layered tips. First Moori, then Kamui and finally Sniper. I really didn't like the feeling of the Moori and the Kamui but litterally felt in love with the Sniper. IMO, once a sniper (or any other good layered tip) tip is shapped you don't have to touch it anymore until you change it (at least ten years later LOL). It keeps its shape and just stays perfect. Misscues are often the result of a lack of confidence on some given shots. So keep the time you spend on reshapping and changing your tips to practice these shots and you will promptly decrease your misscues stats.:thumbup:
Just because you put the words together doesn't mean there is a grain of truth in them!
wont this and the willard taper do the same thing as what i'm doing with sandingpaper?
ps: I use 220grid, place it on the tip, and give a turn or two with the shaft and that usually does the trick.
Possibly? I don't know how rough/hairy that looks afterwards. I do not believe in the sharp spikey tappers to roughen up the tip. Making a few deep holes in the glazed tip is not as useful as making a very rough overall surface. It really acts in a totally different way.
I feel that rougher is better, and the things I linked to give maximum roughness. They really chew the tip up, which sounds bad but it's actually good.
Most sandpaper I've ever tried does not rough it up nearly as much, to the point where it leaves actual big hairs on the tip. Ditto most of the 'nail-file' type curved scuffers.
Basically I think it should look almost twice as rough as the pic solartje posted.
Another very valuable "tip tip": Please do not google search for hairy tip with safesearch turned off. Third result: "hairyprego.com". . .. . . .
I feel that rougher is better, and the things I linked to give maximum roughness. They really chew the tip up, which sounds bad but it's actually good.
Most sandpaper I've ever tried does not rough it up nearly as much, to the point where it leaves actual big hairs on the tip. Ditto most of the 'nail-file' type curved scuffers.
Basically I think it should look almost twice as rough as the pic solartje posted.
Another very valuable "tip tip": Please do not google search for hairy tip with safesearch turned off. Third result: "hairyprego.com". . .. . . .
In my experience, the times I miscue are the times I am trying to apply WAY too much english or there is a lack of chalk on my tip. I play w/ a moori medium and a wizard medium. Both are layered tips. I find I miscue alot more if i shoot 4 or 5 shots without chalking inbetween(which, in my opinion causes the glazing). On my playing cue, I chalk just about every single shot. I only have to scuff or porcupine(tip pick) my tip maybe once a week. What I have found to work best for me is using a tip pick and instead of jabbing holes in the tip, i push the pick in and do a quarter turn. And this does two things... allows the chalk to go deeper than just the surface and also scuffs up the top.
I'd suggest chalking after every shot and not shooting hard shots w/o chalking first(i know its hard not to when just banging balls around at home).
I'd suggest chalking after every shot and not shooting hard shots w/o chalking first(i know its hard not to when just banging balls around at home).
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Tip height
Solly, some Americans can't convert millimeters to inches. so......
4MM equals .158 inches, which is the height of my tip, NOT INCLUDING THE DOME. It is just starting to get to height that I like. Anything higher than this and I don't like the way it plays. I use an Everest tip at the moment.
I think the picture you posted which shows the tip magnified, gives the visual impression that it is higher than it really is.
I would be concerned about the tip height if it were more than 4mm (not including the dome) but if you are saying your tip height including the dome is 4-5MM, then that is SHORT and the way I like them.
HAVE YOU EVER USED AN EVEREST TIP BY TIGER PRODUCTS? BTW, I use a Willard Scuffer to occasionally create some "hair". lol (No sandpaper for me)
$.02
JoeyA
jay
is this really way to high? its like 4-5mm. I took off 3-4 layers when i bought it and shaped it to a dome. Looks normal to me
Keep those hairy balls advice coming :grin-square:
Solly, some Americans can't convert millimeters to inches.
so......4MM equals .158 inches, which is the height of my tip, NOT INCLUDING THE DOME. It is just starting to get to height that I like. Anything higher than this and I don't like the way it plays. I use an Everest tip at the moment.
I think the picture you posted which shows the tip magnified, gives the visual impression that it is higher than it really is.
I would be concerned about the tip height if it were more than 4mm (not including the dome) but if you are saying your tip height including the dome is 4-5MM, then that is SHORT and the way I like them.
HAVE YOU EVER USED AN EVEREST TIP BY TIGER PRODUCTS? BTW, I use a Willard Scuffer to occasionally create some "hair". lol (No sandpaper for me)
$.02
JoeyA
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I put up a new tip on one of the shafts.
Moori S. I measured the tipheight, wich is now perfect for me.
and its 3mm high (0.12") and 2.5-3mm dome. (0.10")
the moory (new picture) has different hair then the kamui medium i put on before (the last picture).
I have a c chaper with a plastic lathé i won on a poolwebsite, that ive been using to shape the dome, and i have a willard scuffer to scuf. used those for a year, but hardly use it anymore. I only use the willard scuffer to be sure i have a dime shape, but nothing beats ROUGH pape, good pressed and 15° turn. That really raises the leather.
I have been thinking like creedo to. Tippicks, and tappers seems like doing alot of work for not much.(I felt like a butcher using tip pick :s done it once with a tipick of a friend)
If anything grips a cueball its a hairy tip, not holes. (i can imagine holes having chalk in them) and so the tip might have more chalk on it, but i'm not sure it GRIPS the cb more. it just makes you chalk less often.
Losing chalk isnt much of my problem. CLean the table and cb well, and its gone. I do think a soft tip with lots of hair is the best combination, and i agree 100% with what creedi says. I was just wondering if there is a more hairy tip , so that i dont need to get the BIG grid paper out so often? I tried to get hair on the moori's like on the picture before and couldnt get it. :s
this is the best picture i could get... the hair looks rougher then on the moori. Its look more like the surface of mars then the surface of a carpet...
I tried one shot with max english (i mean ALOT of english), and it didnt miscue... maybe its because the tip was fresh and just roughend up, but if i dont miscue with that much english i'll never miscue. But im having hard time believing if i play with it for a week and only chalk it, that i could play the same amount with miscuing..
ps i never tried everest tips
PS2; when i mean creating hair with sandpaper, i mean 20-40grid sandpaper. VERY rough, belt-sandpaper. my willard gets filled with stuff very fast, and it dont works as well after some uses as when it was new. Thats why i prefere to use fresh 40grid sandpaper.
PS3 now that i compare both pics, the other tip DOES look like a tower maybe i removed a layer or two extra after taking the tip. But a kamui looks alot more hairy then a moori.
MAIN THING:
Now after using the kamui, sniper, moori, etc, all i can say is, that when they are freshly installed, they all can be made hairy easily, and they grip perfectly. The probme is after some months of play, the layers underneath get compressed and compressed more with each shot. After 2 months, the layers underneath are SO hard and compressed, it very difficult to make them as hairy as on the picture. Its like the tip gets harder and glasyer with every week you play.
If i could find a tip that stays this hairy (with some work) for ALL his lifetime, thats the tip im looking after (does it even exist?)
Moori S. I measured the tipheight, wich is now perfect for me.
and its 3mm high (0.12") and 2.5-3mm dome. (0.10")
the moory (new picture) has different hair then the kamui medium i put on before (the last picture).
I have a c chaper with a plastic lathé i won on a poolwebsite, that ive been using to shape the dome, and i have a willard scuffer to scuf. used those for a year, but hardly use it anymore. I only use the willard scuffer to be sure i have a dime shape, but nothing beats ROUGH pape, good pressed and 15° turn. That really raises the leather.
I have been thinking like creedo to. Tippicks, and tappers seems like doing alot of work for not much.(I felt like a butcher using tip pick :s done it once with a tipick of a friend)
If anything grips a cueball its a hairy tip, not holes. (i can imagine holes having chalk in them) and so the tip might have more chalk on it, but i'm not sure it GRIPS the cb more. it just makes you chalk less often.
Losing chalk isnt much of my problem. CLean the table and cb well, and its gone. I do think a soft tip with lots of hair is the best combination, and i agree 100% with what creedi says. I was just wondering if there is a more hairy tip , so that i dont need to get the BIG grid paper out so often? I tried to get hair on the moori's like on the picture before and couldnt get it. :s
this is the best picture i could get... the hair looks rougher then on the moori. Its look more like the surface of mars then the surface of a carpet...
I tried one shot with max english (i mean ALOT of english), and it didnt miscue... maybe its because the tip was fresh and just roughend up, but if i dont miscue with that much english i'll never miscue. But im having hard time believing if i play with it for a week and only chalk it, that i could play the same amount with miscuing..
ps i never tried everest tips
PS2; when i mean creating hair with sandpaper, i mean 20-40grid sandpaper. VERY rough, belt-sandpaper. my willard gets filled with stuff very fast, and it dont works as well after some uses as when it was new. Thats why i prefere to use fresh 40grid sandpaper.
PS3 now that i compare both pics, the other tip DOES look like a tower
maybe i removed a layer or two extra after taking the tip. But a kamui looks alot more hairy then a moori.MAIN THING:
Now after using the kamui, sniper, moori, etc, all i can say is, that when they are freshly installed, they all can be made hairy easily, and they grip perfectly. The probme is after some months of play, the layers underneath get compressed and compressed more with each shot. After 2 months, the layers underneath are SO hard and compressed, it very difficult to make them as hairy as on the picture. Its like the tip gets harder and glasyer with every week you play.
If i could find a tip that stays this hairy (with some work) for ALL his lifetime, thats the tip im looking after (does it even exist?)
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So far my milk dud has staid hairy. It's kindof annoying when I rub it on carpet to get the chalk off, it gets the little carpet hairs stuck on it.
For my other tip, I use the willard dime shaper with alcohol and toothbrush to clean it out after every use. Maybe I will replace it with the dudley.