The Draw Stroke Test...How Do You Rate?

How Does Your Draw Rate?


  • Total voters
    142
you guys are killing me

Me and another very good player in my area conducted this test today with several shafts,on a diamond professional table, simonis 860 cloth, vacumed and cleaned, aramith tv set of balls and here are the results, Carolina Custom Merry Widow cue 18.6 oz 3 shots per shaft:

8pc rad lam shaft kamui 2 med tip sold on az billiards

1=13, 2=13.5, 3=12.5

Carolina Cues Stock Shaft Wizard Med Tip

1=14.5, 2=14, 3=14.5

ob-1 shaft everest tip

1= 12, 2=12.5, 3=12.5

ob-2 shaft everest tip

1=15, 2=14.5, 3=16.5

Searing shaft wizard med tip

1=18.5, 2=17, 3= 17.5

pred 314 everest tip

1=13.5, 2=14, 3=14

pred 314-2 everest tip

1=14.5, 2=14, 3=15

pred z shaft everest tip

1=15, 2 14.5, 3=15

now im tired,lol;)
 
Last edited:
Draw

I dont see any reson to draw a C/B that far.. I can say I have over drawn A C/B more than 13-15 but why.. At takes A heck of alot more skill to draw 3 feet or 3in. perfect when you need to..
 
I can get 11-12 consistently. I was playing BCA on a horrible team and drew one like crazy, they were all impressed even though I missed the shot. Doesn't matter unless you can control whitey and help play better position.
 
I dont see any reson to draw a C/B that far.. I can say I have over drawn A C/B more than 13-15 but why.. At takes A heck of alot more skill to draw 3 feet or 3in. perfect when you need to..

It comes up. We're all pool players. We should be able to shoot over the top power draws. I really don't ever see why anyone would object to seeing how far you can draw.

I mean, really, if you're faced with the straight back 9'+ draw where the object ball and cueball are 8' or 9' away, why wouldn't you want to make sure that you've actually executed the stroke before?

And please let's not give the BS answer about playing better position. That's a copout. We all get left shots time to time.

Fred
 
Actually, looking at the original diagram doesn't tell me that it shows a lot about a persons draw stroke. Getting the cue ball back to the end rail is plenty, end rail and back to center table would be more than enough. Being that close to the OB I see no problem with either shot I just described. You want to test your draw stroke? Do this one instead. This one will separate the men from the boys.
MULLY


CueTable Help


I agree with you. And I think it really is the same type of stroke we're talking about. It comes up. And sometimes we're left the shot and there's no safe.

Here's one I shot in a tournament. And I think there's no reason to play safe. I don't see why a pool player wouldn't want to test themselves on this shot.

CueTable Help



Fred <~~~ crappy draw stroke
 
That was a pretty cool detailed test ballbreaker. So the shaft choice matters a lot with draw, not just sidespin? Looks like Searing (which I don't hear talked about much) draws like a madman.
 
i can screw(draw) the ball 30ft on a snooker table, 9 ball 19 easily on a decent table, not saying it trying to be arrogant, i actually can do this very easy and would happily challenge anyone snooker or 9 ball that i can i have more screw power than anyone, only because of my technique i have more drive than anyone so i have more cue power. watch predator 10 ball next week john morra who i teach this 2...


I would love to see this on video. I find it hard to think one of your qualifications/ knowledge would post somethin you couldn't do...

30ft on that napped lawn is a damn looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong way.
 
I find it interesting that the OP mentions how different equpiment effects the amount of draw he is able to achieve. While it does have some effect I have seen "players" that can't draw 4" with any cue/shaft/tip combo. That being said, I also know players that could draw the length of the table with a broom stick with a tip glued to the end.
 
One of the biggest keys to the draw shot is the contact point between the tip and the cueball. A lot of people arent hitting the ball where they think they are. Thats when practicing with a striped ball, or one of the countless training balls out there comes in handy. Having visual proof of where the tip is actually hitting the cue ball shocks some people. Ive seen people hitting a half inch higher than they thought they were.
Chuck
 
I set this up and shot it One Time. That was after playing 6 hrs of 1 pocket. I figure if you need that much draw you only have one chance in the real world. 16+ diamonds was ok even though when it hit the other end rail it had a little holding english which killed the speed a little.

Power draws come up at times but as some have said it doesn't matter how far, its how accurate are you when you need it.

Rod
 
I think there are situations where way more than normal draw comes in useful. Occasionally it comes up that I need to draw back into a cluster of balls, break them up and have the cue (hopefully) go through them and continue down the table to get into some (usually relatively large) position area.

Much like a standard force follow break shot in straight pool, where you need the cue to go through the stack and keep going. Only with massive draw can you draw back, have it hit another ball full on with enough power to break a small cluster and keep going.

The debate over whether or not you really should ever have to do that is another one (one could argue that needing to do that just means you got bad position or played a bad pattern in the first place).

I think a situation like that I am more likely to do a full power draw, than the OP diagram. I can't think of a single time I've ever needed to draw more than perhaps 9 or so diamonds other than to show off. 9 diamonds will get you from the center of the table, back to the short rail and back to the center again. I suppose occasionally a situation would come up where you might need to go from center, back to the rail and back to the other rail too, but that would come up way less often.
 
Back
Top