touch up points

Thank you...

KJ Cues said:
I'm guessing that you're not a CM. My first clue was the nature of your first post because a CM would have been right out front trying to help the OP, not exercising his personal moral code to pass judgment. The OP has a client that's getting 'antcy' for his cue but he's run into a small glitch. It's not a big deal, it's easily addressed. Starting over isn't an option, nor should it be. A fix was prescribed and even without seeing the cue, I have every reason to believe that it will work.

My second clue was your statement : "No doubt the void was noticed before the forearm was joined to the handle." That's not how cues are built and how could you know beyond doubt that the 'void' was there before the forearm was attached to the wrap handle? The forearm is attached to the handle while the cue is still oversize. Then, depending on the builder's chain of processes, there is a 'true-up' pass followed by several tapering passes. It sounds like the glitch made itself known during one of his final passes. But I digress and this is not about teaching someone how to build cues.

In the past 10 yrs I've had cues in for service from just about every major builder known. I'm not about to start 'telling tales outta school' but I assure you that every single cue has had a flaw to it. 99.99% of people looking at the cue would never see it. That's testament to how well these major builders have learned to counter the irregularities that we face on a daily basis.

As CMs, we strive for perfection in every cue we build (and the cues we repair). Perfection is a goal that we strive for but in our hearts we know that perfection is a goal never to be achieved. Perfection does not exist.
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Thank you KJ for sharing your knowledge and experiences. And thanks to all the other Cuemakers for their willingness to help out fellow cuemakers. You guys are the few reasons I frequent AZ, to learn.
 
calm down guys, just a touch up, not a hack up

bman43 said:
have a purpleheart forearm with ebony points. small glue line showing on one point.what do you guys recommend i touch it up with.because of illnesses i am far behind on cue orders.customer is patient but wants his cue.so any help would be greatly appriciated. thanks brian
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first, the void WAS NOT THERE until the last pass.it is small.if i cant make it look perfect or damn close it will not go to customer.and like kj and mr nieghbors said and myself included i have repaired big money cues by great cuemakers with touchups that only a cuemaker or rare customer would notice.i am asking for advice because i never had a void at this point. again, any ideas would be appreciated thanks brian
 
TellsItLikeItIs said:
Since it was me that said make the man a new cue Ill go out on a limb and assume youre referring to my post.

Glad I could bring a laugh into your day Dick but I really dont see whats so funny or slight about a void in a point being
covered up with a marker. Maybe you can explain the humor in it.

So just to be sure were on the same page here. Youre suggesting that covering a void in a point using a marker is acceptable?

No doubt the void was noticed before the forearm was joined to the handle. Assuming the cue is a half spliced that is.
Why go any further. Why not cut that point out and replace it or make a new forearm. Then there wouldnt be a need to make a new cue would there.

If yout ake a second to read what I said youll read Correcting a mistake is one thing but covering up a mistake that way just isnt right.

And sorry to bust your bubble but I dont even smoke much less use illegals. I do have my head in the clouds though. Every morning when I get up and drive to work Im on a natural high. Wouldnt have it any other way thank you.
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In your first reply to Eric's remedy you said "And then hope your customer isnt reading this forum.". Just what difference should it make? He was told to fill a glue void with glue and ebony. Just what may I ask would you feel was the correct way to make the repair? Leave the void so that there could possibly be a rattle or such or just use glue with no ebony so that there is a glue line?

In your next posting you said "Correcting a mistake is one thing but covering up a mistake that way just isnt right. If youre going to make cues to sell do it right or dont do it at all. Any cue maker that covers up errors using a marker or filler isnt giving the customer their moneys worth." Do you know of a better way of making this repair? Voodoo usually doesn't work. I guess some of the best cue makers this country has to offer should take up different trades as they do it also.

Dick
 
KJ Cues said:
I'm guessing that you're not a CM. My first clue was the nature of your first post because a CM would have been right out front trying to help the OP, not exercising his personal moral code to pass judgment. The OP has a client that's getting 'antcy' for his cue but he's run into a small glitch. It's not a big deal, it's easily addressed. Starting over isn't an option, nor should it be. A fix was prescribed and even without seeing the cue, I have every reason to believe that it will work.

My second clue was your statement : "No doubt the void was noticed before the forearm was joined to the handle." That's not how cues are built and how could you know beyond doubt that the 'void' was there before the forearm was attached to the wrap handle? The forearm is attached to the handle while the cue is still oversize. Then, depending on the builder's chain of processes, there is a 'true-up' pass followed by several tapering passes. It sounds like the glitch made itself known during one of his final passes. But I digress and this is not about teaching someone how to build cues.

In the past 10 yrs I've had cues in for service from just about every major builder known. I'm not about to start 'telling tales outta school' but I assure you that every single cue has had a flaw to it. 99.99% of people looking at the cue would never see it. That's testament to how well these major builders have learned to counter the irregularities that we face on a daily basis.

As CMs, we strive for perfection in every cue we build (and the cues we repair). Perfection is a goal that we strive for but in our hearts we know that perfection is a goal never to be achieved. Perfection does not exist.
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good post kj, as always :thumbup:
 
As CMs, we strive for perfection in every cue we build (and the cues we repair). Perfection is a goal that we strive for but in our hearts we know that perfection is a goal never to be achieved. Perfection does not exist.[/QUOTE]

Well said sir! Rep to you.
 
Wow...what was that

How about....MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT.....Thanks Joey....and Eric ...Ray :grin-square:..
 
Vary well said QBUILDER. I just finished up in the shop thought I would be in bed hours ago, ran into a wall if you know what I mean. sometimes I would rather dig ditches for a living. D Hill montgomery gentry how I roll!!!!
 
bman43 said:
first, the void WAS NOT THERE until the last pass.it is small.if i cant make it look perfect or damn close it will not go to customer.and like kj and mr nieghbors said and myself included i have repaired big money cues by great cuemakers with touchups that only a cuemaker or rare customer would notice.i am asking for advice because i never had a void at this point. again, any ideas would be appreciated thanks brian
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The remedy that Eric offered is a very sound and effective fix for your problem. I was taught that trick almost 50 yrs ago back in High School wood shop. Cabinet makers, furniture builders and repairmen have been using that method just about forever.

Since your damaged point is Ebony, gather-up some Ebony dust (make some if you have to) and mix it with a very small amount of either Elmer's glue or thin epoxy. We used Elmer's because epoxy hadn't been invented yet. Even dirt was still new.
Anyway, as Eric stated, mix it to a toothpaste consistency and smear a small amount into your void. Mix it so it is fairly thick yet still workable.
The idea is, you want more Ebo dust than glue. You could also tape-off the PH to lessen the chance of contaminating the PH.
Within 24 hrs you should be able to finely sand your patch-work on the point done to size. If done correctly, you shouldn't be able to see the repair.
Neither will anyone else.
 
Appreciation acknowledged to te many fine cms on this forum who put their livelyhoods at work to turn out a quality product at an affordable price. Merry Christmas to all
 
Some good discussion here...

So the question begs to the cuemakers, when should you tell or not tell a customer of a flaw since all cues have them? I agree to start over is ridiculous, but should you give the option to your customer if he still wants to purchase the cue, or not say anything, or does it depend on how little or what the flaw is? Do you only say something when it affects the hit of the cue and is not a cosmetic flaw? If I spend money on a product and then find out something was hidden do I just chalk it up to oh it happens or try to return the cue for a refund? I am not talking about minor cosmetic flaws that you need a magnifying glass to see, but something that affects the playability on a cue, or if inlays, points, veneers are done poorly. Just curious on how the cuemakers feel on this (not trying to start any argument, just for conversation purpose).

I agree there is a ton of hard work put into cues and there will always be flaws. Thanks to the cuemakers for voicing their opinions in this thread.
 
Spimp13, the questions you ask are legitimate. The answer from me personally is that 99% of flaws are minor & simply part of everyday cuemaking. Some require a slight bit more attention than others. They aren't really anything worth mentioning. In fact, in the situation of a chipped point, I fix it and forget about it. It's just part of cuemaking. By the time I apply a finish to the cue, I am not even thinking of any flaws I have corrected. I don't see them & i'm the one who built the cue. It's really nothing worth mention.

In the case of a more than minor flaw, something that can affect the playability, I explain to the customer how I cured the fault & made the cue sound again, and assure with an indefinite warranty that it'll hold the test of time. If i'm not comfortable with my fix then I don't ship the cue, simple. As for cosmetic flaws that cannot be fixed to the extent of invisibility, I will rebuild the cue. If I cannot fix the flaw to the point where it will never be known that there ever was a flaw, then I don't do anything at all and just begin a new cue.

Here's something to think about. Is it actually a flaw before the cue is completed? Once completed and "flawless" as a finished product, do these little hick-ups even really count as flaws? The buyer critiques only the finished cue.
 
If I spend money on a product and then find out something was hidden do I just chalk it up to oh it happens or try to return the cue for a refund?
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Call the maker and get a resolution.
 
qbilder said:
Spimp13, the questions you ask are legitimate. The answer from me personally is that 99% of flaws are minor & simply part of everyday cuemaking. Some require a slight bit more attention than others. They aren't really anything worth mentioning. In fact, in the situation of a chipped point, I fix it and forget about it. It's just part of cuemaking. By the time I apply a finish to the cue, I am not even thinking of any flaws I have corrected. I don't see them & i'm the one who built the cue. It's really nothing worth mention.

In the case of a more than minor flaw, something that can affect the playability, I explain to the customer how I cured the fault & made the cue sound again, and assure with an indefinite warranty that it'll hold the test of time. If i'm not comfortable with my fix then I don't ship the cue, simple. As for cosmetic flaws that cannot be fixed to the extent of invisibility, I will rebuild the cue. If I cannot fix the flaw to the point where it will never be known that there ever was a flaw, then I don't do anything at all and just begin a new cue.

Here's something to think about. Is it actually a flaw before the cue is completed? Once completed and "flawless" as a finished product, do these little hick-ups even really count as flaws? The buyer critiques only the finished cue.
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Eric, thank you for the reply. Your answer makes perfect sense. As a customer we need to realize that flaws/mistakes do happen and every single cue has them whether we like them or not. As long as the cuemaker doesn't hide something major and communicates pertinant information to the customer is all I ask. Something major can damage the cuemakers rep and as someone who loves the game of pool and loves to see cuemakers post cues and succeed at something that I also have a passion with (from a playing standpoint), I do not want to see this happen to anyone.
 
Spimp13 said:
Agreed...and maybe add in private without starting a new thread to bash them which I see on here all too frequently.[/QUOTE

Hold a customer's cue and or money hostage, NEVER call them, they deserved to be bashed. I think a good percentage of these threads are justified because the cue maker refuses to contact his customer, and just steal his money and cue. I know it's ugly, but when a cue maker goes AWOL, continually misses delivery dates, accepts money in a fraudulent manner, like telling you the cue is ready, and other lame excuses why he has not produced either the cue or refunded your money, the forum should know.
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hangemhigh said:
Hold a customer's cue and or money hostage, NEVER call them, they deserved to be bashed. I think a good percentage of these threads are justified because the cue maker refuses to contact his customer, and just steal his money and cue. I know it's ugly, but when a cue maker goes AWOL, continually misses delivery dates, accepts money in a fraudulent manner, like telling you the cue is ready, and other lame excuses why he has not produced either the cue or refunded your money, the forum should know.
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Would the same apply for a casemaker, or is that any different?
 
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