What is PRO ONE?
Hi Roger,
Research multiple intelligences for more information.
Yes, possibilities do exist. It's important to know that people are smart in various ways, whether by math, words, music, body, nature, vision and even more. A person's intelligence in any of these areas can be awakened if deemed low with proper exercises and instruction.
Is is clear that pool is primarily a visual-motor activity. Visual-body coordination is a must for playing pool at a proficient level.
When I teach PRO ONE, I teach students how to see like a pro and how to move their body like a pro. If that task involves awakening those intelligences to some degree, then that is what I set out to do. Every student brings a different set of intelligences to me. I recognize that and strengthen the areas that need it to whatever extent that I can.
Hal Houle discovered the one variable that allows any player at an early stage to disengage the conscious mind from the aiming process. And it's not complicated. A student, a young man, just here from NC was effortless with PRO ONE by the end of our 2 day session. For others, it can and does take longer.
I also use a manual that is full of words and math. They serve their purpose as well.
Stan
FYI, there's also lots of good info on sighting (especially Mike Page's videos) here:
Regards,
Dave
What is PRO ONE?
Pro One is an offspring if you will from CTE. Stan Shuffett learned CTE from Hal, but there was something that he (and several others) didnt really care for about CTE. Stan developed another way to use CTE that took care of what many who had learned CTE didnt like.
What is PRO ONE?
Thread has become too long to go back and look for the ACCURATE information that I think I read about CTE. But I have found a way to incorporate a bassackwards version of it into my game for some shots. If the shot is thick or thin I currently feel more comfortable using other aiming methods. But if the angle is within15 degrees of 23 degrees (maybe between 10 and 35 degrees I really don't know) then I do this:
1. Line up on CB for a full hit on OB.
2. If cut is to the LEFT, move entire cue to the LEFT one tip diameter.
3. With back hand VIRTUALLY planted in position, slide bridge over until cue is lined up with LEFT edge of OB.
4. THEN PIVOT to center and stroke.
Feels awkward sliding bridge but it works for me. Try it and let me know what you think. Is this the SECRET?!
Only if you make an adjustment after you're done with all of the offset and pivoting ceremony.Thread has become too long to go back and look for the ACCURATE information that I think I read about CTE. But I have found a way to incorporate a bassackwards version of it into my game for some shots. If the shot is thick or thin I currently feel more comfortable using other aiming methods. But if the angle is within15 degrees of 23 degrees (maybe between 10 and 35 degrees I really don't know) then I do this:
1. Line up on CB for a full hit on OB.
2. If cut is to the LEFT, move entire cue to the LEFT one tip diameter.
3. With back hand VIRTUALLY planted in position, slide bridge over until cue is lined up with LEFT edge of OB.
4. THEN PIVOT to center and stroke.
Feels awkward sliding bridge but it works for me. Try it and let me know what you think. Is this the SECRET?!
Hal often referred to CTE aiming as a professional one-angle aiming system. I discussed with Hal a name for what I was going to teach and he was okay with PRO ONE. Traditional CTE aiming does have one unnatural cue movement. When I discussed this with Hal, he indicated to me that a player could bring his cue in from one side all of the time. He specifically mentioned Bustamante. Hal did not give me exact details on how to procede with that technique. He did give me some clues, which is typical Hal, and with lots of work and consultation with Hal, PRO ONE became a viable system.
Please keep in mind that the one-angle aiming system refers to the mind's eye and what it sees. Hal always acknowledged the vast number of shots that can occur on the table.
-Stan Shuffett
Does that mean for CTE to work I already have to be good at aiming?
I'm always having trouble understanding these things and what they are supposed to accomplish. Is pro one a system that can help a beginner to learn how to aim, or is it a system that will help an A player become an A++ player?
I already know how to aim on most shots, but when I'm faced with a difficult shot I use a system known as "equal opposites". I imagine how much of the cueball has to hit the opposite part of the objectball. It's hard to explain without a diagram, but really easy to understand. And it never let me down. It can't, because it is geometrically correct every time. The only thing that can go wrong is that I'm not aligned to the shot properly or misjudgement when playing with english.
Does pro one more than showing you the correct line of aim?
For example, I am glad that I spent a lot of time studying the quarters system.
There are only 3 angles for any shot, on any size table. This includes; caroms, single rail banks, double rail banks, 1, 2, 3, and 4 rail banks, and double kiss banks.
Any table has a 2 to 1 ratio; 3 1/2 x 7, 4 x 8, 4 1/2 x 9, 5 x 10, 6 x 12. It is always twice as long as it is wide.
The table corners are 90 degree angles. When you lay a cue from the side pocket to the corner pocket, you are forming an angle of 45 degrees. When you lay a cue from the side pocket to the middle diamond on the same end rail, you are forming an angle of 30 degrees. When you lay a cue from the side pocket to the first diamond on the same end rail, you are forming an angle of 15 degrees.
When you add up these 3 angles, they total 90 degrees, which is the same angle formed by the table corners. The cue ball relation to object ball relation shot angle is always 15, 30, or 45 degrees.
The solution is very simple. There are only 2 edges on the cue ball to aim with, and they are always exactly in the same place on the cue ball. There are only 3 exact spots on the object ball to aim to, and they are always exactly in the same place on the object ball. So, 2 edges on the cue ball, and 3 spots on the object ball; 2 x 3 = 6 which is the total number of table pockets.
This means that, depending upon how the cue ball and object ball lie in relation to one another, you may either pocket the object ball directly into a pocket or bank it into any one of the remaining 5 pockets. Of course, the reverse is true. If the relationship of cue ball to object ball can only be a bank, so be it. There is never a need to look at a pocket or cushion while lining up the edge on the cue ball to the spot on the object ball. You have only those 3 angles, your only requirement is to recognize whether your shot is a 15, 30, or 45 degree angle.
Recognizing those 3 angles can be accomplished in an instant by aiming the edge of the cue ball to one of the spots on the object ball. It will be obvious which object ball spot is correct. There will be no doubt. Any time either one of the 2 edges on the cue ball is aimed at any one of the 3 spots on the object ball, that object ball must go to a pocket. Choose the correct spot and the object ball will most certainly go to the chosen pocket. The top professional players in the game have always known about this professional aiming system, but they are a closed fraternity, and you are the enemy.
Interested in where those spots are located?
The 2 places on the cue ball are the left edge of the cue ball when you are cutting the object ball to the left; and the right edge of the cue ball when you are cutting the object ball to the right. The 3 spots on the object ball are the quarters, and the center. The quarters and center of the object ball face straight at the edges of your cue ball, not facing toward the pocket.
In other words, if you were on a work-bench at home, there would be no pocket, so you would just line up the edge of the cue ball straight to your target on the object ball.
When you cut to the left for 15 degrees, aim the left cue ball edge at the object ball left quarter. When you cut to the left for 30 degrees, aim the cue ball left edge at the object ball center. When you cut to the left for 45 degrees, aim the cue ball left edge at the object ball right quarter. When you cut to the right for 15 degrees, you aim the cue ball right edge at the object ball right quarter. When you cut to the right for 30 degrees, you aim the cue ball right edge at the object center. When you cut to the right for 45 degrees, you aim the right cue ball edge to the object ball left quarter.
If you'll just get down and aim your old way, you'll be close to where you should be aiming. Look to see (without changing your head or eye position) just where the cue ball edge is aiming at the object ball. You'll see that on every shot that the cue ball edge is always aiming at the same targets on the object ball. Remember, this system is for any shot on the table; banks, caroms, combinations, and so forth. The only shot remaining is the extreme cut for any shot over 45 degrees. Aim the cue ball edge to the eighth of the object ball (which is half of the quarter). Don't let the pocket influence you. Have a friend hold the ball tray between the object ball and the pocket, so you cannot see the pocket, and you'll see that those 3 angles will handle just about anything. Of course, you would have chosen the 15, 30, or 45 degree angle before your friend put the ball tray in place. It also makes it much more interesting if you don't tell your friend how you are pocketing the ball without seeing the pocket.
Have some fun. For any questions, call me. Regards, POOL HAL
... only if you scratch. You need to embrace the tingling sensation and let the visual intelligence permeate your pores.Whats the "VEPS"? Will it kill you if you catch it?
Is this the quarters system? and does any of this have any relation to CTE?