Lathe question..?

Hi,

I have found that I do a better job rendering the linen when I don't use a foot pedal. I set my speed get ready and just throw the switch.

As I lay the linen on I hold an angle on my feed of the linen of about 10 degrees away from the direction of install to render the linen tight against the last turn.

By knowing the speed that is my optimum I can move my arms and body to hold that correct angle for a consistent wrap install.

IMO, Quite frankly, I never could understand why anyone would want to use a foot pedal. If you vary the speed during the install the lay is not consistent as the tension changes.

Rick G
 
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OK im sorry for not specifying what i was wanting, I didnt want to lengthen the cord, I just wanted to see if someone had any advice on a switch. After that with the confude I am done also. It is what it is, we obviously wouldnt get along in life period so let it be at that, and I am not working any cues besides my own and I am obviously not using my playing shafts just cheap blanks.. and I am not going to do work on other peoples cues. I am just a beginner and I am starting at the beginning like you did once. I am sorry for the fast uninformational post. Everyone, I appreciate the links and advice I think I am just going to put a cheap speed switch on it for now until I upgrade motors.
 
bearsafety said:
I just purchased a cheap basic lathe from a fellow AZer and it is fine and dandy but when I put it on my bench the foot pedal doesnt reach the ground. It has like a tiny sewing machine motor on it as it is. Is it possible to scrap the stupid pedal and get a some kind of a switch for speed settings to run continuously with the flip of switches? Does anyone have anything like that for sale? - and possibly a little nicer motor? (or advice?)
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Why not splice the cord and make it longer?
 
KJ, I think the first thing that should be done is for the fella to try and get a clue as to what is going on.
We both know that a sewing machine motor just dont have the power to do much of anything related to cue work.

I strongly recommend he spend the money on Hightower's book about cue making.
Then he would have enough clues to know that cheap is very inconsistent with quality cue work and he most likely can not afford to do what he wants to do.

But then again its just my opinion ... and who am I?

Willee


KJ Cues said:
Actually it's inappropriate use of the language.
The pedal is incapable of any degree of intelligence so it is neither smart nor stupid.
It's incumbent on the owner/operator of said pedal to give the pedal commands,
assuming the operator has a sufficient level of intelligence to issue those commands.
However, from what I've read up to this point, I'm betting on the pedal.
Click to expand...
 
Yes ... seems simple dont it.

First you must understand how the motor works and what it would take to control its speed.
Only a DC motor (with brushes) can be speed controlled by varying the voltage to it.
AC motors (induction types) wont work like that.
So you will need a device that has a switch and a resistor (high wattage) for each speed you wish to operate the motor at.
The real problem will be torque.
At low voltages (low RPM) the sewing machine motor has very little torque.

What you need is a larger 1/2 HP DC motor set up.
(about $99 for motor and controller from Penn State Industries)
If that is out of your price range I would suggest you look for another hobby as it only gets more expensive from there.

Just giving you the facts from my experiences.

Willee

bearsafety said:
I am going to, but I also want a switch for working with tips, as it seems like it would be less awkward. I dont know.. im just trying different stuff out.
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Lathe

You could do both. Install a longer wire to the foot pedal. Install a Rheostat (variable speed control) in parallel with the foot pedal.
 
DEXTER said:
You could do both. Install a longer wire to the foot pedal. Install a Rheostat (variable speed control) in parallel with the foot pedal.
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Only if there is a switch to choose one or the other. Leaving both branches in parallel as a closed circuit would render them individually useless.
 
actually I know where to get stoopid cord

Blue Hog ridr said:
You have to fix Stupid pedals with Stupid electrical cord.
Stupid cord is hard to come by these days and there are no cross over numbers for it.
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I was working with one of the best cue makers and I cudda used some stoopid cord so I found some!! I am a small repair guy who thot he wanted to build Cues I have since realized I am a much better fixer (got a lot to learn but am learning at the school of hard knocks.you guys are a pleasure to learn from and I am a pest who will NOT hesatate to ask a question and man-o-man do I have thick skin!! when I F'up I will know I did not ask the correct question.(period)thank You guy alot for helping us out (FNG's)

Irish
 
If you purchased the right lathe to begin with you would not have all these problems. Not to mention the extensive phone support. Makes all the diffrence.
 
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safety

DEXTER said:
I'll bet my electricians license I'm right.
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Would accidentally actuating the pedal while the rheostat switch is on cause some problems? It may be a good idea to have a selector switch if dual actuation could pose a safety problem.
I'm just curious what would happen. I have limited practical experience with electric circuit design. (not to be off topic)

I would prefer a foot control that has a separate variable speed setting. Foot control is on/off and speed is selected with a knob on the lathe. To each his own I guess.
 
EddySJ said:
Would accidentally actuating the pedal while the rheostat switch is on cause some problems? It may be a good idea to have a selector switch if dual actuation could pose a safety problem.
I'm just curious what would happen. I have limited practical experience with electric circuit design. (not to be off topic)

I would prefer a foot control that has a separate variable speed setting. Foot control is on/off and speed is selected with a knob on the lathe. To each his own I guess.
Click to expand...

It would not be a safety problem but transmission line theory as it pertains to this topic dictates a switch to be used to select between the two branches or it will eliminate a significant portion of the bottom half of your rpm range. Impedances when configured in parallel reduce the effective impedance of the circuit.

DEXTER said:
I'll bet my electricians license I'm right.
Click to expand...

My Electronic Engineering degree taught me that. I would bet it, but as it has been worthless to me the last 15 years it probably is not worth much to anyone else either.
 
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