What do you think ?

Running backwards seems like a lot of hassle for no gain. Wonder if he knows he's doing it? The idea of having the lathe in forward with bit centered below the work is so that you can visually inspect the work as it's being done. I'm not crazy about the amount of glue. I would think with no glue on the shoulder, it will quickly get a blue chalk line around the ferrule that can never be cleaned without another ferrule change. Weird way of doing the job, but I suppose it will hold just fine.
 
qbilder said:
Running backwards seems like a lot of hassle for no gain. Wonder if he knows he's doing it? The idea of having the lathe in forward with bit centered below the work is so that you can visually inspect the work as it's being done. I'm not crazy about the amount of glue. I would think with no glue on the shoulder, it will quickly get a blue chalk line around the ferrule that can never be cleaned without another ferrule change. Weird way of doing the job, but I suppose it will hold just fine.
Click to expand...

wrong tool post for his machine so he flips the tool for the center line.
he either wants it that way or does not know better.from the looks of his setup and the way he progresses his work his knowledge of machining is very limited but shows a big heart.

bill
 
Craig Fales said:
I get the impression he was working that way so as to not block the camera.
Click to expand...

Craig,

You may be right but would you set up for a video to be advertised on the internet of yourself running rotating equipment with long sleeves reaching over a chuck.

This is something that needs to be pointed out as there are many newcomers here all the time and this action screams for "peer check and review" so just maybe someone thinks about it and realizes they have been developing a bad fundamental safety habit and has been getting away with it. If they understand the "root cause" of their bad habit and the potential consequences, they can make "corrective actions" before there has been a bad "lesson learned".

If this thread stops one person from an injury that would make my decade.

Rick G
 
ELBeau said:
Not sure of the lathe type, but looks like he's done some nice mods to his with the DRO on the cross-slide and tailstock- not to mention the tachometer and variable speed control.
I doubt he works like that all the time; it looks like he just did it because of camera placement. He needs one of those "safety guards removed for illustrative purposes only" type disclaimers!
Click to expand...

I don't think he uses the micrometer while standing behind the chuck either.
Definitely done for the camera and he couldn't care less for the safety brigade b/c I don't think he's showing for peeps to follow his lead . He's not in lawsuit land. He's in Europe.
Now, we should end the safety sermon and self-promotion and maybe discuss better ways.
Craig brought up the wet sanding might swell the wood.
Coat the wood with CA ?
He already has the Kress router mounted, why not have small buffer ?

Cutting away from the chuck might be more stressful to the ferrule as pointed out .
I actually like to cut the ferrule down on the taper machine if possible ( some shafts are just too wobbly to spin between centers ) as the 3-wing router bit cuts so clean.
 
scdiveteam said:
Craig,

You may be right but would you set up for a video to be advertised on the internet of yourself running rotating equipment with long sleeves reaching over a chuck.

This is something that needs to be pointed out as there are many newcomers here all the time and this action screams for "peer check and review" so just maybe someone thinks about it and realizes they have been developing a bad fundamental safety habit and has been getting away with it. If they understand the "root cause" of their bad habit and the potential consequences, they can make "corrective actions" before there has been a bad "lesson learned".

If this thread stops one person from an injury that would make my decade.

Rick G
Click to expand...
Yes, I should have pointed out the long sleeves as a big no no. I have seem many lathe videos where they are positioned like him for viewing purposes. His technique overall isn't anything I would follow but semi-interesting nontheless.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Craig brought up the wet sanding might swell the wood.
Coat the wood with CA ?
He already has the Kress router mounted, why not have small buffer ?

Cutting away from the chuck might be more stressful to the ferrule as pointed out .
I actually like to cut the ferrule down on the taper machine if possible ( some shafts are just too wobbly to spin between centers ) as the 3-wing router bit cuts so clean.
Click to expand...

The wet sanding seemed odd to me. Granted that it may prolong the life of the sandpaper due to no clogging, I see no other purpose. Getting the wood wet would be a bigger hassle than sandpaper is worth.

I cut my ferrules with a HSS single point. It is ground with a severe relief and sharp tip, so it cuts aggressive but very clean. Cuts with nearly no stress on the work. Downside is it needs sharpened often.

I also find it odd that he didn't glue a tip on before shaving the ferrule to size. I always glue a tip on & cut tip/ferrule together. Just seems like double work cutting ferrule down, then having to do the same with the tip. Why not do both simultaneously?

I guess overall the guy does lots of things I don't do. Not to say it's wrong, just not the way I would do it. I think efficiency & simplicity and this seems anything but. However, i'm not showing myself & technique on video for the world to see, either.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I don't think he uses the micrometer while standing behind the chuck either.
Definitely done for the camera and he couldn't care less for the safety brigade b/c I don't think he's showing for peeps to follow his lead . He's not in lawsuit land. He's in Europe.
Now, we should end the safety sermon and self-promotion and maybe discuss better ways.
Craig brought up the wet sanding might swell the wood.
Coat the wood with CA ?
He already has the Kress router mounted, why not have small buffer ?

Cutting away from the chuck might be more stressful to the ferrule as pointed out .
I actually like to cut the ferrule down on the taper machine if possible ( some shafts are just too wobbly to spin between centers ) as the 3-wing router bit cuts so clean.
Click to expand...

Joe,

If some shafts are too wobbly to spin between centers why would you ever want to put a ferrule on them? If the shaft is wobbling between centers at the slow tapering and lathe speed there is a bigger problem to be solved.

I cut all of my ferrules on my tapering machine during the entire shaft tapering process and it is 100% repeatable. I tenon, face and glue the ferrule on when the ferrule end of the shaft is over .600.

Sorry to preach the "Safety Sermon" but it is part of my make up because I think safe practices should take precedent over everything else performed in any shop or work environment. I thought it was the reason you started the thread because ferrule installation is such a rudimentary install process.

When I first started building cues I gave away over 30 cues to my league customers at my Billiards Cafe for long term field beta testing and feed back. I have been tracking these cues for over 7 years and one of the problems I found was indeed in the wood shaft / ferrule interface area. After a while I was seeing a slight step there on some of the cues. I tried sealing with super glue and a few other efforts but I found that by pre installing the ferrule, tapering to final dim. and then coating the shaft with sealer gives my cues a perfect blend in this area even when they are in the field for years. After the grain rise I sand the ferrule very carefully from .517 to .511 and then lightly finish sand the shaft from 600 to 2000 grit to blend from the wood side. Leather burnishing and Renaissance Wax seals the deal.

Now the real question is am I self promoting or could it be that I am sharing info with my peers for their comment and review and maybe some one may pass along some useful info to me in the process. Since you seem to like to read minds and comment, I guess I will leave that one to you. Promoting one's self to other cue makers seems to be a senseless endeavor. I really don't think there is a single cue maker out there that will ever buy one of my cues.

Rick G

"Pre installed ferrule at an intermediate resting dimension"

IMG_3559.jpg
 
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If some shafts are too wobbly to spin between centers why would you ever want to put a ferrule on them? If the shaft is wobbling between centers at the slow tapering and lathe speed there is a bigger problem to be solved.
I'm talking about REPAIRS.
You know like people bringing in busted ferrules.

Please stop with installation of ferrules at .950" ends advice already.
Ferrules come around .545" . I don't like burying them under .600" end shafts.
Different ways to skin the cat.
I install mine at .530" ends on the shafts that survive the torture test.

Here two videos shared by DZ for comparison.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6RAShoVxyo&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBrMwlnjZNA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
Superb work by DZ as usual.

Attached is a staghorn buttplate with a threaded black phenolic reinforcement it's about to get into. Total overkill.
But, different strokes for different folks.
 
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While I'm not really a fan of Gorilla glue, I do like and use Polyurethanes.

I find that they glue things together better than most anything else. I use a commercial version that's tan in color and much lower foaming than the gorilla glue.
 
whammo57 said:
All good discussion but no one has mentioned the gorilla glue......

Kim
Click to expand...

Hi,

I full core all of my cues and I love GG because all voids get filled because of the 4 X expansion with the water catalyst.

Polyurethane glues have a 2 thousand year half life chemistry and creates an amazing ring when core gluing almost any wood combo.

I still use epoxy on my ferrules, less messy because of the expansion coefficient of GG.

Rick
 
His leadscrew is warped but if you watch his other videos the chuck is zeroed in pretty good at ferrule end diameter, nice plug in scale at eye level.--Leonard
 
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