Hello! So I came about a nice old two piece sneaky. Looks like rose wood with nice veneered points. I was wondering if it is possible to add weight to this cue inserting wood instead of a weightbolt?
Core a cue?
- Thread starter krychekrowe
- Start date
That would likely be a more labor intensive way to do it, but the weight should be more widely distributed.
Howdy,
How much of an increase in wght. are you looking for?
Wood may not even be an option. You say the cue is Rosewood.
Rosewood is generally heavier than Maple.
So, if you're boring out the Rosewood, what are you thinking of putting in there?
What's your objection to a wght.blt.?
KJ
How much of an increase in wght. are you looking for?
Wood may not even be an option. You say the cue is Rosewood.
Rosewood is generally heavier than Maple.
So, if you're boring out the Rosewood, what are you thinking of putting in there?
What's your objection to a wght.blt.?
KJ
KJ makes good points and asked a good question.
What is wrong with a weight bolt?
What is wrong with a weight bolt?
Of course! See this why I turn to you guys for info. I made a mistake in letting a cuemaker add joint to the butt which was too light. I figured a coring would make up for the loss of weight. I think I'll get a stainless steel joint to add some forward weight and add weightbolt to balance it out. Thank you.
Hi,
Sounds like you got painted into a corner here but alas there is an easy way out. You can remove the pin and install an epoxied 1/2 x 13 tpi threaded allen bolt in a pocket behind your pin, install an insert, then drill and tap for a new pin install.
I build all of my cues on a full 29" dowel and there is no A-Joint as far as a connection with an A-Joint bolt. This begs the question of the loss of the extra weight for that a-joint bolt within the cue. My answer to that was to engineer a weight and balance system whereby the fulcrum of the cue or balance is based on a weight bolt epoxy embedded behind the joint pin.
You seem to be facing the same situation.
The back weight bolt is not for adding weight per se but only acts as a compensation weight bolt to tweak the moment arm (fulcrum) back a little if that is the player's preference. You could do the same with your cue very easily without having to mess with your shaft threads. In building a cue there is a little more power steering to this effect because you have the shaft weight to build into the weight and balance equation or desired envelope.
Some of the old school cue makers who were known for the great hit of their cues all had great tapers to their shafts too be sure. I feel that the other feature was the heavy nose that was felt because they used the heavy metal joint.
I am a proponent of the flat face joint with the big pin and have been inspired to that thinking by the work of Harvey Martin & David P. Kershenbrock.
By adding this forward weight bolt to my fully cored cues, I think I have been able to get the big pin flat faced cue with the extra weight feel in the nose without the metal joint. You could easily do it the same way. IMHO I don't think putting more weight into the butt area will improve the playability of your cue if it is light in the bow already. Like the Shao Lin Priest said to Kane in Kung Fu, " Balance Grasshopper":killingme:
Good Luck,
Rick
Here is an assembled forearm on a dowel with no A-Joint bolt or weight in this area. Installing an epoxied 1/2" x 13 tpi bolt behind the joint pin brings that needed weight ( with some woods ) back into the cue. Note: The milling grooves seen behind the A-Joint were filled with epoxy before turning of the sacrificial wood and facing of the A Joint.
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Blow torch the pin .
Re-dowel that hole .
Have some weight added to the bottom of that dowel.
Powdered tungsten wixed with epoxy works much better than metal bolts that might rattle later on .
I like 1/2 20 threaded wood dowel. Bocote is a good one to use.
It actually makes the top of the cue stronger.
Joey if you have about ten pounds of tungsten powder I would gladly give you ten dollars for it!
That would be Grey Iron powder/chips/swarf.
Tungsten powder is quite expensive.
Stainless shot is cheaper, but not as cheap as taking away the scrap from a place that refaces brake drums and rotors.
Tungsten powder can give you a 8g/cc of weight, comparable to the density of a steel weight bolt.
The stainless shot and suspect the grey iron powder will give you a density in the 4g/cc a little more than 1/2 the density of a steel weight bolt.
Like Joey, I am not a fan of weight bolts.
Hi Guys,
As far as specific gravity or density of metals are concerned, brass and copper are actually heavier than steel or stainless by roughly 10%.
Tungsten is about 2.5 times heavier than steel for sure.
Tungsten is actually heavier than uranium. Heavy!
I like to use steel in my front bolts because I buy them in 4 sizes and they are known weights, no muss or fuss mixing and weighing and they can be installed and embedded in 2ton epoxy while the cue is chucked up and the insert goes in in the same operation.
Todd Schaller got a lot of tungsten from the Omega DPK shop and when you pick up that small bucket it's weight is amazing.
Rick
As far as specific gravity or density of metals are concerned, brass and copper are actually heavier than steel or stainless by roughly 10%.
Tungsten is about 2.5 times heavier than steel for sure.
Tungsten is actually heavier than uranium. Heavy!
I like to use steel in my front bolts because I buy them in 4 sizes and they are known weights, no muss or fuss mixing and weighing and they can be installed and embedded in 2ton epoxy while the cue is chucked up and the insert goes in in the same operation.
Todd Schaller got a lot of tungsten from the Omega DPK shop and when you pick up that small bucket it's weight is amazing.
Rick
I have been looking at tungsten powder for front weight. I found a 1/2 lb jar for $16. Is that a good price??? It is 1.7 times heavier than lead. Also there are cube tungsten weights for pine car derby cars but kinda expensive.
tungsten
I got some a few months ago.
I like it.
I mix it up with epoxy to a pourable mixture; you can pour it way down a fairly small hole, well past where you could get a tap.
One nice thing is you can remove it easily if necessary with a drill.
Also, it will never rattle.
Robin
I got some a few months ago.
I like it.
I mix it up with epoxy to a pourable mixture; you can pour it way down a fairly small hole, well past where you could get a tap.
One nice thing is you can remove it easily if necessary with a drill.
Also, it will never rattle.
Robin
Just wear some A SS weights when playing.
You'll never know the difference.
You'll never know the difference.
i've played with cues with and without weight bolts and the difference is there but i couldn't feel it. if a cue's balanced well it's balanced well.
I try to make a cue the requested weight by the woods that I use. I usually get pretty close. A few cues I have had to add weight after assembly. Lately I am weighing before final assembly of the butt so I can put some weight in the front if needed. I have a request for a 60 inch - 21 oz cue. I did a full core of PH with an 18 in piece of coco and the rest is CM. Add a pin, bumper, rings, and Juma ends and the butt weighs close to 17 oz. Ad a 4+ oz shaft and you have a 21 oz cue. I know that this cue will feel balanced and most likely lighter than 21 oz when shooting with it.
I have noticed that if a cue has weight added in the rear of the butt, it feels heavy and clumsy. If the cue is naturally weighted and balanced by the wood it is made from, it may weigh the same on a scale but it will feel lighter to the shooter. For my perception, a slightly front or nose heavy cue also feels lighter that it will show on a scale and feels better when playing.
but what do I know........ I am still learning
Kim
I build all of my cues on a full 29" dowel and there is no A-Joint as far as a connection with an A-Joint bolt. This begs the question of the loss of the extra weight for that a-joint bolt within the cue. My answer to that was to engineer a weight and balance system whereby the fulcrum of the cue or balance is based on a weight bolt epoxy embedded behind the joint pin.
I may be wrong, but in the upper right of your picture it looks like a forearm that has an "A" joint tenon...JER
I may be wrong, but in the upper right of your picture it looks like a forearm that has an "A" joint tenon...JER