auto clear question

cues

JoeyInCali said:
Okies, I stand corrected.
I only like them for glue application.
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hi joey
i have also seen your cues,
i just want to do a world class job on the finish.... (please)
you seem flexible in trying different products.
but at the same time it seems if you really like a automotive finish (the best).

right now i have it narrowed down to raka or the epoxy chris hightower sells . before this thread i was gearing up for emron.
right now product support might be what sways me to one product over another. my shop is in the country. i dont have to worry about the same laws that you do in cal.

no matter what product i use i have to learn everything on how to apply it.
everyone seems to do there finish different from each other.
very confusing to the person who has not done any of this.


be nice to use a finish that works ......
deep rich wet glass look, that last for years..
thank you MMike
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
hi joey
i have also seen your cues,
i just want to do a world class job on the finish.... (please)
you seem flexible in trying different products.
but at the same time it seems if you really like a automotive finish (the best).

right now i have it narrowed down to raka or the epoxy chris hightower sells . before this thread i was gearing up for emron.
right now product support might be what sways me to one product over another. my shop is in the country. i dont have to worry about the same laws that you do in cal.

no matter what product i use i have to learn everything on how to apply it.
everyone seems to do there finish different from each other.
very confusing to the person who has not done any of this.


be nice to use a finish that works ......
deep rich wet glass look, that last for years..
thank you MMike
Click to expand...
I'm far from finish expert Mike. Thanks though.
Emron is illegal in California. I am told it was the hardest finish available when it was available here in Calif.
If you can spray safely and legally, I don't think epoxy can beat it .
From my experiences with BSI epoxy, RAKA and Aeromarine, I liked RAKA the most. Even though it went ugly on me when it got past the 1-yr shelf life.
If you get em, store em in a cool place and date them.

Ceramiclear is another highly touted auto clear.
http://www.ceramicindustry.com/articles/ppg-industries-ceramiclear-clearcoat
 
auto finish vs epoxy

a lot of different products hard choice on which one to start with.
i would like the best possible finish...........

at first i was thinking of using a air brush to shoot emron .
the only reason i say imron is because i bought a 3rd edition cue blue book and started to read about the finish that each cue maker uses.
emron seems to be the preferred finish used by top cue builders.

at this time i have no idea what to use. the raka sounds interesting
because its thin and faster drying times.

thank you everyone
MMike
 
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I experimented with heating my epoxy. It went on smooth with no bubbles, but at the higher speed that I am currently stuck with the epoxy was too thick and I got some insane globs (pretty bubble free globs, but globs just the same). The epoxy seemed to thicken once it cooled on the cue. I've been thinning it with acetone and getting very clear bubble free results. (Does anybody know of anything cheaper that can be used for thinning epoxy) My next step will be heating the epoxy and cutting it with acetone. Now that I think of it, what's a good buffing compound for epoxy? I had some Finesse that I'd previously used on airplane windows, but my supply is pretty much gone. I've tried several rubbing compounds but they don't seem to do anything to this stuff.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
I experimented with heating my epoxy. It went on smooth with no bubbles, but at the higher speed that I am currently stuck with the epoxy was too thick and I got some insane globs (pretty bubble free globs, but globs just the same). The epoxy seemed to thicken once it cooled on the cue. I've been thinning it with acetone and getting very clear bubble free results. (Does anybody know of anything cheaper that can be used for thinning epoxy) My next step will be heating the epoxy and cutting it with acetone. Now that I think of it, what's a good buffing compound for epoxy? I had some Finesse that I'd previously used on airplane windows, but my supply is pretty much gone. I've tried several rubbing compounds but they don't seem to do anything to this stuff.
Click to expand...

Switch to a thinner epoxy.
If you chemically think epoxy, you're weakening it.
 
Well I would like to chime in if possible. First I would start by saying. You have to select a clear coat that best suits your environment. Do you force dry? Do you air dry? Is it warm in your shop? Do you have to keep production up? Don't have all that time to spare? All of these play a big factor. I would say in the cue building business you guys would need a clear that fills easier and dries in a good amount of time. I'm not sure how many of you still apply with foam brushes. But spraying would be the best option. Get yourself a mini gun with good transfer efficiency, like a Sata mini or Devilbiss SRI Pro. This will make the application smoother and cut down on your polishing. Automotive clears are great but can be extremely costly as well. These clears are loaded with uv (something that may or may not make a difference to the builders). Some are pre flexed again not sure how that would make a difference either. But my opinion would be look for a high solids clear coat with a simple mix ratio 2:1, 3:1 or 4:1. Try and find the best build for you work. I had a cue built yrs ago and I specifically had the builder use a scratch resistant clear coat by Sherwin and seen it this weekend at the expo and while looking at it a passer by commented how nice and shiny it was. So that's an example to what's out there but. Needless to say preference and knowing what works is always a very good reason to not change a


Sent using hand held iDevice.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
I experimented with heating my epoxy. It went on smooth with no bubbles, but at the higher speed that I am currently stuck with the epoxy was too thick and I got some insane globs (pretty bubble free globs, but globs just the same). The epoxy seemed to thicken once it cooled on the cue. I've been thinning it with acetone and getting very clear bubble free results. (Does anybody know of anything cheaper that can be used for thinning epoxy) My next step will be heating the epoxy and cutting it with acetone. Now that I think of it, what's a good buffing compound for epoxy? I had some Finesse that I'd previously used on airplane windows, but my supply is pretty much gone. I've tried several rubbing compounds but they don't seem to do anything to this stuff.
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Heating is recommended, not solvent thinning. I'm not sure what I am doing different, but I have no problems at all with bubbles or lumps. I use 105/207 at room(70ish) temp with a good foam brush and that's it. I apply a thick coat and then use light pressure starting at one side and work to end to level it out.
 
Does anyone use a very thin epoxy for sealing that when the two parts are mixed together the epoxy acquires a slight green tint?

Dick
 
pescadoman said:
Heating is recommended, not solvent thinning. I'm not sure what I am doing different, but I have no problems at all with bubbles or lumps. I use 105/207 at room(70ish) temp with a good foam brush and that's it. I apply a thick coat and then use light pressure starting at one side and work to end to level it out.
Click to expand...

Maybe thats what im doing wrong with the epoxy, not smoothing it out. The first stuff I used leveled out on its own, but the 105/207 is thicker. Im gonna try it again, but Im really liking the results Im getting with this auto clear.

Joe
 
rhncue said:
Does anyone use a very thin epoxy for sealing that when the two parts are mixed together the epoxy acquires a slight green tint?

Dick
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Dick. I use west systems It never has a slight green tint to it. I have had a very slight yellow tint to it when my hardener is getting old. Kinda reminds me of the BSI epoxy..
 
snipershot said:
Maybe thats what im doing wrong with the epoxy, not smoothing it out. The first stuff I used leveled out on its own, but the 105/207 is thicker. Im gonna try it again, but Im really liking the results Im getting with this auto clear.

Joe
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I heated this a bit in the microwave before I mixed it. Applied with a Jen 4 inch foam brush at 60 rpm. 105/207
 

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Wow! Ok, I'm trying that out as soon as I get my shop back together. I'm moving stuff around to make room for a couple new toys ;)

Joe
 
patrickcues said:
Dick. I use west systems It never has a slight green tint to it. I have had a very slight yellow tint to it when my hardener is getting old. Kinda reminds me of the BSI epoxy..
Click to expand...

I've got West System but the hardener has got very brown. West system takes way to long to harden anyway. I used to use some epoxy that was called Koa Wood Insulator. It is a very thin epoxy that you sprayed on the cue and it dried in less than two minutes and sealed Cocobolo wonderfully. When the two parts were mixed it got a slightly green hue. There was only one place in FL that carried it but they stopped. I was hoping someone else might be carrying it under a different name. If I remember I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow and check the availability of it.

Dick
 
snipershot said:
Is that sanded and polished, or did it just turn out that way?

Joe
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That is how is set up. Heavy coat..leveled in about 5 mins.
It is hanging now. It was a bit tacky at that point. I KNOW 206 turns red(lame), but I haven't seen 207 turn...yet.
 
pescadoman said:
That is how is set up. Heavy coat..leveled in about 5 mins.
It is hanging now. It was a bit tacky at that point. I KNOW 206 turns red(lame), but I haven't seen 207 turn...yet.
Click to expand...

I've got some 207/105 and now I'm itching to try it again. I got frustrated with the lumpiness of it and abandoned it.

Joe
 
pescadoman said:
I heated this a bit in the microwave before I mixed it. Applied with a Jen 4 inch foam brush at 60 rpm. 105/207
Click to expand...
That simply looks amazing for not being sprayed. I'm getting great results spraying but a lot more work. How long does it have to set up? I'm assuming even though it looks perfect you'll still want to wet sand it to completely even it out?
 
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