auto clear question

snipershot

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
Silver Member
I just started using auot clear a couple weeks ago and so far I'm loving the results. Originally, I used some different clear and when it dried, the wood acted like it shrank. There was a noticable lip around the buttcap and joint collars and any ringwork. The new (and far far better) clear I'm spraying isn't as bad, but it does it a little bit also. The new clear cures in 24 hours and is very hard, where the cheap stuff took at least a week to firm up. So my question is, even though it cures overnight, should I wait any additional time to start sanding and buffing? It says on the label that it can be sanded and buffed in 24 hours.

Joe
 
Read your spec sheet on the clear. it will tell you what to do as far as dry time.

Try using PPG DC 3000 it is a very good clear. You can let it dry for a few hours wet sand it and do what you want.
 
I'm using house of kolor kosmic clear. Its pretty hard the next day. Does that ppg shrink?

Joe
 
Finish is one of the best kept secrets among cuemakers.
Do what I did... Asked a neighbour or a friend that works on an auto body shop on how to set the gun, what finish they recommend, compound, buffing, etc.
Usually I wait 2/3 days to do final wet sand to make sure it cures better than what the instructions state.
It's all about error and trial to find the magic formula.
Make sure you read the instructions of your clear coat. It's all there, psi, flash and cure time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Guerra Cues said:
Finish is one of the best kept secrets among cuemakers.
Do what I did... Asked a neighbour or a friend that works on an auto body shop on how to set the gun, what finish they recommend, compound, buffing, etc.
Usually I wait 2/3 days to do final wet sand to make sure it cures better than what the instructions state.
It's all about error and trial to find the magic formula.
Make sure you read the instructions of your clear coat. It's all there, psi, flash and cure time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Maybe you can PM him your neighbor's number?.....lol
 
Guerra Cues said:
Finish is one of the best kept secrets among cuemakers.
Do what I did... Asked a neighbour or a friend that works on an auto body shop on how to set the gun, what finish they recommend, compound, buffing, etc.
Usually I wait 2/3 days to do final wet sand to make sure it cures better than what the instructions state.
It's all about error and trial to find the magic formula.
Make sure you read the instructions of your clear coat. It's all there, psi, flash and cure time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've painted a few thousand cars, so I know how to tune in my gun. Also, the directions on the clear are for painting cars or other non porous materials very unlike wood, so they aren't exactly spot on. I have been experimenting A LOT, that's why I came here and asked. I was just curious if any other cuemakers used this brand of clear and if it shrank or soaked in.

Joe
 
All auto clear is going to shrink for weeks after it's sprayed. It's just the nature of anything with solvents in it. That's why I like Cue Coat epoxy. I have shot paint all my life and it supprizes people I don't spray my cues. Two coats of epoxy and I am done. Cost around $5 a cue to finish this way too! If you insist on spraying, it might not hurt to seal first with epoxy. Then let the clear shrink a few days before sanding.

Larry
 
snipershot said:
I've painted a few thousand cars, so I know how to tune in my gun. Also, the directions on the clear are for painting cars or other non porous materials very unlike wood, so they aren't exactly spot on. I have been experimenting A LOT, that's why I came here and asked. I was just curious if any other cuemakers used this brand of clear and if it shrank or soaked in.

Joe
Click to expand...

Use 105/207 before your clear and pretend it it a Vette! :)
 
snipershot said:
I've painted a few thousand cars, so I know how to tune in my gun. Also, the directions on the clear are for painting cars or other non porous materials very unlike wood, so they aren't exactly spot on. I have been experimenting A LOT, that's why I came here and asked. I was just curious if any other cuemakers used this brand of clear and if it shrank or soaked in.

Joe
Click to expand...

Joe,

I would follow Larry's suggestions. He is one heck of a pro and I would listen to him carefully.
What he said, seal the cue and if you have metal rings, might be a good idea to use an adhesion promoter.
We all understand your passion about start making cues, but when you ask certain questions and then you state you painted thousands of cars, I do wonder :confused:
If you use the search function here, there are several people that mention brand names of auto clear...
Like I said before... There is no magic formula, just your own.
I use 2 type of auto clears with no issues...
But I spent quite a bit of money on experimenting it... I was not the only one around here spending money and experimenting stuff...
I found my formula and I am sticking to it and I am keeping the secret to myself.
 
finish

63Kcode said:
All auto clear is going to shrink for weeks after it's sprayed. It's just the nature of anything with solvents in it. That's why I like Cue Coat epoxy. I have shot paint all my life and it supprizes people I don't spray my cues. Two coats of epoxy and I am done. Cost around $5 a cue to finish this way too! If you insist on spraying, it might not hurt to seal first with epoxy. Then let the clear shrink a few days before sanding.

Larry
Click to expand...

hi larry
could i get some info on the epoxy.
MMike
 
Yes all clears do shrink in time. That is why you take your time when doing finish work. Just like a car it will make or break you!! The seal coat is a 2 part epoxy. Some use West Systems others use different ones. West Systems you cant go wrong!!!
 
epoxy

patrickcues said:
Yes all clears do shrink in time. That is why you take your time when doing finish work. Just like a car it will make or break you!! The seal coat is a 2 part epoxy. Some use West Systems others use different ones. West Systems you cant go wrong!!!
Click to expand...

thank you for the infor getting the right finish has been a struggle.
 
RAKA has a new epoxy that I'm trying now.
http://store.raka.com/uvepoxysystem.aspx
For those who might not want to spray or want an epoxy basecoat.

It lays out much thinner than BSI that is populary re-labeled .
I've tried BSI and it's way too thick for my liking.
If the cue needs to be spun for hours after applying, it's too thick for my liking.

I was going to hold this a secret but little guys like RAKA need all the support they can get to stay in business.
I don't see how West 207 can cost double the price.

Try it and you might just like it.
You're welcome.
 
Guerra Cues said:
Joe,

I would follow Larry's suggestions. He is one heck of a pro and I would listen to him carefully.
What he said, seal the cue and if you have metal rings, might be a good idea to use an adhesion promoter.
We all understand your passion about start making cues, but when you ask certain questions and then you state you painted thousands of cars, I do wonder :confused:
If you use the search function here, there are several people that mention brand names of auto clear...
Like I said before... There is no magic formula, just your own.
I use 2 type of auto clears with no issues...
But I spent quite a bit of money on experimenting it... I was not the only one around here spending money and experimenting stuff...
I found my formula and I am sticking to it and I am keeping the secret to myself.
Click to expand...
Well, you can wonder all you like Tony, but like I said, spraying clear on cars is a lot different than spraying on wood. I worked in the paint shop at a car plant and sprayed base coat and clear coat on moving cars. You were in such a hurry to impress upon me how superior you are that you missed my question. I was asking about shrinking or soaking clear coat, but you felt the need to lecture me and assume I didnt even know how to tune in my gun. Id appreciate it if you would refrain from answering any more of my questions, because I have never learned one useful thing from your posts. Good day sir.
 
Guerra Cues said:
Joe,
I found my formula and I am sticking to it

and I am keeping the secret to myself.
Click to expand...

atta boy! i think you're onto something :thumbup:
certainly cant have one cuemaker telling another one about methods, techniques, procedures, materials , etc. etc. etc. ,
can we?
wouldnt want that kind of thing going on here :scratchhead:

next thing you know, new guys would be private messaging, emailing or calling every cuemaker in the country asking questions . complete anarchy

brent > never stirs the doo doo on here
 
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