Fantastic Super Glue Spreaders FS

TomHay

TomHay

Best Tips For Less
Silver Member
:smile:Only kidding guys

Below are pictures of what I use for spreading out the Gel Super Glue on tips and ferrules. They are simple Gun and Teeth cleaning picks. I bought a pack of 40 for $2.03 as I was in a hurry but you can find them in a Dollar type store for much less or wait for a buy one get one free.

The Flat sides are like a mini spatula on both sides. The other half is like a round mini brush to get in all the nooks and cranies. I only use the slow grades of Super Glue as you get more time to work which to me adds up in less time for mistakes. To many this will be just the usual Rabbit out of the Hat trick, if it helps one person, that this post is worth while.

SuperGlue Gel Spreader.jpg

SuperGluePlunger.jpg

Gum Picks.jpg
 
I have put many on threaded with Super Glue, have replaced tips on the original ferrules 15 years old. Is Super Glue considered a ferrule no no?

Thanks,
Tom
 
TomHay said:
I have put many on threaded with Super Glue, have replaced tips on the original ferrules 15 years old. Is Super Glue considered a ferrule no no?

Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...

Hi Tom
I have replaced some ferrules done by others that after a few months, the shaft actually sounded cracked but the super glue bond actually broke, I prefer epoxy, just trying to help.
 
Mike, no biggie as I am sure this has occured. I can think of several reasons. 1. Using a fast Super Glue and threading the ferrule on to slow, this will cause the breaking of the seal while actualy putting the ferrule on. 2. Using a slow super glue and cutting before the cure, the ferrule cutting and rotation will break the seal before cure.

The same can happen with an epoxy or any type adhesive.

I try to think of it this way, the tip is not threaded on and takes a bigger bounce yet most tips will stay on the life of the tip yet some super glued tips will pop off first hit which means to me the application is to blame not the product.

Interesting thread, maybe it will breath life.
 
TomHay said:
Mike, no biggie as I am sure this has occured. I can think of several reasons. 1. Using a fast Super Glue and threading the ferrule on to slow, this will cause the breaking of the seal while actualy putting the ferrule on. 2. Using a slow super glue and cutting before the cure, the ferrule cutting and rotation will break the seal before cure.

The same can happen with an epoxy or any type adhesive.

I try to think of it this way, the tip is not threaded on and takes a bigger bounce yet most tips will stay on the life of the tip yet some super glued tips will pop off first hit which means to me the application is to blame not the product.

Interesting thread, maybe it will breath life.
Click to expand...


Interesting philosophy, and I admit, I can't condemn it, as I've never used super glue for ferrules. I know some guys who swear by Titebond. I just stick with epoxy.
 
Michael, I have used epoxy, wood glue and at one time tweeten was like the only thing on the market.

I once believed a 5 minute epoxy was okay to cut a cue down on a lathe in 5 minutes. I had to take them back apart as I had a ding sound from forearm to handle. Switched to 1 hour and let sit over night and eliminated the problem.

The little two way pick workd great with epoxy as well.

Thanks,
Tom
 
The picks look like they'd be handy for this stuff.

I've been using thin craft sticks or skewers used for corn on the cob for years.

You have to have serious skills to have gotten ferrules on before the glue sets,or a really slow setting glue. I tried 2 diff times on junk shafts with CA,and failed to get it locked down before the glue flashed. Tommy D.
 
glue

I use devcon 5 min epoxy but still give it 12 to 24 drying time.
the only problem i have had is getting in a rush and not getting it mixed properly. the drying time just kills forward progress.
im waiting for epoxy to dry as i speak.
Im afraid supper glue will break down in a few years.

MMike
 
Truth be told I made the Butts while Richie did the shafts, fitting and finish on all the old RT Custom Cues. Could very well be you guys are saving me from chances of unneeded headaches as it appears I maybe gambling which you don't do with other peoples prize wepons. I want to thank all that emailed PM'D and responded.:bow-down:
 
Good for removing ear wax too.
When you have saved enuff, an ear wax polish on the shaft is most excellent.
 
LOL, you are showing your age Blue Hog. This is what people did back in mine, Fred and Barneys day, worked great as well.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
I have no idea what that is Kim.
Discuss.
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It's a rare substance found on older pole dancers. It was mentioned by the Fuggs back in the 60's. They sang about it in a song called "Slum Goddes From the Lower East Side."

I shiit you not....

LOL

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
Nipple wax is better................

Kim
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While I have no $$$ limit on the care of my cues, nipple wax has better uses . . . at least as long as it is flavored!!! Strawberry sounds good!!

:D

Gary

Terry - enjoy your earwax!!! :nono:
 
I've always been under the assumption that the reason ferrules were threaded on by most was so that the shaft could immediately be worked on, as opposed to a non threaded ferrule. I know that is why I thread mine. Some times I use g-5 with white added and some times I use Tite-bond. I put it on the threaded tenon and inside the ferrule and with the lathe running fairly slowly and using a paper towel to catch the excess glue. once in place I use a pair of pliers to tighten tightly and then immediately face and size the ferrule.

If it's a new shaft I turn down just enough to remove the collet and cut the ferrule to size with the last pass in the tapering machine. I've been doing it in this exact same way for some time and many ferrules and never a problem.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I've always been under the assumption that the reason ferrules were threaded on by most was so that the shaft could immediately be worked on, as opposed to a non threaded ferrule. I know that is why I thread mine. Some times I use g-5 with white added and some times I use Tite-bond. I put it on the threaded tenon and inside the ferrule and with the lathe running fairly slowly and using a paper towel to catch the excess glue. once in place I use a pair of pliers to tighten tightly and then immediately face and size the ferrule.

If it's a new shaft I turn down just enough to remove the collet and cut the ferrule to size with the last pass in the tapering machine. I've been doing it in this exact same way for some time and many ferrules and never a problem.

Dick
Click to expand...

Great advise. I need to get off my ars waiting for epoxy to dry. Once I get the shaft dialed in to cut and thread the tennon, I don't like to take it out of my lathe just to do something else while I wait. I'll try stepping my game up a notch.
 
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