My new setup
- Thread starter Pedi
- Start date
brilliant design real nice
Hi,
this is my new setup for making ring billets.
Who else has a similar setup and wants to share some pics?
Silvio
*** Gloria Cues ***
I used to make my ring billetts similarly a few years ago. I had a 24" Atlas lathe that I wasn't using so I removed the chuck so as to give me more room. I then mounted an indexer facing the tailstock like yours, and mounted a tool post grinder onto the tool post like yours. By using the lathe but not using the chuck, I could turn on the lathe and use the lathe's
feed to drive the router along. Worked pretty well. I finally just started to use my CNC for making the billets.
Dick
That's so very nice. Please send me one.
Yep, that's always one of my favourite threads too Neil.
Whether its a taper bar set up or one of Whammos jigs, it's always great to see what people will come up with and also share.
I'm pretty fond of Joey's last jig myself.
Yep, that's always one of my favourite threads too Neil.
Whether its a taper bar set up or one of Whammos jigs, it's always great to see what people will come up with and also share.
I'm pretty fond of Joey's last jig myself.
RBC
Deceased
Silvio
It looks very cool!
You say you can build every billet, but I'm not sure how.
How would you cut a slot that you didn't have a cutter specifically that size?
If you have the means to adjust the height of the router, you'd be able to cut any size slot, and any number of slots. And, you'd be able to have just a few cutters too. Instead of a whole bunch of different sizes for different thickness of slots.
It's a really nice machine, and looks to be very well made. I'm not trying to put it down, merely plant a seed in the mind of someone who has already shown the desire, ability and creativity to build a nice machine.
I know what they say about assume, but I guessed that big ol' handwheel
looking thingy on the chuck provides the ability to rotate it small fractions
of a degree - so you can get any width of slot.
BTW - Dick's point about doing a setup on a lathe(or mill) with power feed
is tne next best thing to using CNC.
Dale
That would give you tapered walls on your slots.
RBC
Deceased
Sorry, I guess I didn't explain it very well.
What would you do if you needed to do a billet with slots that were, let's say, .225" wide? How would you cut that slot if you could not find an endmill or router bit that is .225" in diameter? You would still need to make a slot with parallel sides so it's easy to make parts for, and also so it would stay the same width as you turn it down.
If you added the ability to raise and lower your router with measurable control, then you would be able to use any bit that was smaller than the slot. Basically, you raise and lower the bit to achieve the slot size needed.
Another way to do the same thing with a little less work on your machine would be to build a router mount that came down from the top instead of the side. What this does is allow you to use the cross slide you already have to move the bit off center to provide for the different slot sizes you will encounter and need to make. You could set the router depth with both a slotted mounting, and altering the bit depth in the collet, to achieve the slot depth you need which is far less critical than the slot width.
I truly hope that you see all my comments as a compliment. I certainly intended it that way.
he can always cut his corresponding parts trapezoidal or radial trapezoidal if that term even exist. For pre existing rectangular stock such as silver strip or veneer it would need to be adjustable or else a prevalent glue line will be present.
I would just get an additional taig compound and mount it upright and come off of it horizontally with the router
I would just get an additional taig compound and mount it upright and come off of it horizontally with the router
RBC
Deceased
Jake
Are you sure?
Think about it. When you cut the slot, the wall of the cut is not in line with the center of the stock, or in other words it's not on a "Radial Line". "Radial Line" meaning any line that starts at the very center and extends outward in any direction.
When you cut the slot, the line would be outside of the radial line, but cutting the part would be the opposite. To make it work, you'd still have to offset the cutter to get the other side of it on the other side of the cut line. Part versus pocket.Your part and pocket would not have the same angles on them.
CAD it up. I've never been able to come up with a way to make it work, but maybe you can.
RBC
Deceased
You know, I just keep hoping for that crazy way of looking at things that opens all the doors that seem to be closed. If anybody could open that door Jake, it would be you!
Maybe next time!
Not to hijack but some info that might be useful. If Silvio cuts his slots with a known radial amount, if he owned a D bit grinder, could make tapered cutters to suite. He would then have the ability to make cutters of what ever taper was required to make the correct parts.
D bit grinders are a very under utilised piece of equipment these days it seems.But once you have access to one and use it a bit,they are a very usefull tool.
With the roller on the cross-slide he can make profiled slots as well from a pattern or taper bar.