metal rings

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Little venting,
I hate metal rings with a passion........ what a pain to install.
I think I need to drill a hole in the washer a pin it to between the 2 pieces of wood.

I get turning the ring down And it gets hot and break the ring loose from the glue.

Then years down the road allot of rings pop through the finish any way

MMike
 
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Just say no!

Very sharp tool steel cutters cut down on heat generated too!

Larry
 
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I myself am not a big fan of putting metal in a cue, except a joint pin or collar. I personally like the wood, and have to and share in the same frustrations with the heat, potential for metal to pop through clear (although none of mine have yet), and such.

Yet...I can't say no for some reason. I actually agreed to build a guy a cue, and put a 1 thread per inch metal strand all down a cocobolo handle....it looks good...but what a pain.
 
Metal rings

What? You said in your OP that you have and they popped loose.....or are you saying that you have only done them at the joint and butt cap?:confused:

I am saying every ring I have tried to do has turned out ugly

I have tried to metal rings in the past they have popped loose or have had a rough surface.
. Never getting them right

MMike
 
I turn them under power with the rest of the cue until they are finish size, then slightly under cut with sharp manual tooling taking small passes, then touch them up with fine needle files if needed.
 
You do, if your tapering machine uses a 10 inch 60 tooth carbide saw blade.

After filing, sanding and polishing the highest PSI epoxy as a substrate is your friend.

You can on any tapering machine .
Better if they're not sticking out too much.4-flute carbide helical
end mill trims them easy on the lathe if you have a router mounted
horizontally .
 
Couple questions here.

First,how much oversize are you leaving these rings when you run into problems with tearout/expansion/heat? Is there not a way to take them down close to finish OD before putting them on the cue and taking tapering passes?

How big of a cut can you take and NOT have these problems,.005-.010 per side or less?

It seems like a slightly radiused thin HSS parting tool should peel these rings like butter,even using the 18% nickel-silver stuff,which is the same hardness as guitar fretwire. Tommy D.
 
Rings

Couple questions here.

First,how much oversize are you leaving these rings when you run into problems with tearout/expansion/heat? Is there not a way to take them down close to finish OD before putting them on the cue and taking tapering passes?

How big of a cut can you take and NOT have these problems,.005-.010 per side or less?

It seems like a slightly radiused thin HSS parting tool should peel these rings like butter,even using the 18% nickel-silver stuff,which is the same hardness as guitar fretwire. Tommy D.


I am going to make a mandrel and precut the rings to size
Then I will use a live cutter ,.
Between the two I should be able to do ss rings.

MMike
 
Mike.....
What I did, was buy a .625 ground steel rod for checking the run out on my lathe, but I also wanted to be able to put ALL my rings (metal, plastic, and even the fiber rings) on it at one time and turn them ALL down at one time. I'll put all my black fiber rings on it and turn them down, then do the same with my white rings, thgen do the same with my brass rings, then my nickel rings, etc...

Since the ID of my rings is also .625 they fit really nice and snug and I just put a locking collar on each end to keep all the rings tight. So far it has worked flawlessly but I ONLY have rings for doing j/p's. Since I'm only doing one size ring, that makes it even more simple. I can post up a pic of you like, just let me know.

A .625 rod MIGHT be too large for checking the run out on a lathe, hell.... what do I know, this is all new to me. I just figured if I was gonna buy a ground steel rod, I would get more than one use/function out of it,lol.
 
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