Coring Sizes

deadbeat

deadbeat

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Got a question, I am about to core some forearms and I have the 5/8 drill and 3/4 drill. Which would you use and why? The main reason I don't want to use the 5/8 is because I usually open up the joint collars a little and haven't got the best idea how to overcome this. Should I make my coring rod larger at one end, like step it down to 5/8 but leave about 2 inches 1 inch so I can the cut it down for the joint collar?
 
deadbeat said:
Got a question, I am about to core some forearms and I have the 5/8 drill and 3/4 drill. Which would you use and why? The main reason I don't want to use the 5/8 is because I usually open up the joint collars a little and haven't got the best idea how to overcome this. Should I make my coring rod larger at one end, like step it down to 5/8 but leave about 2 inches 1 inch so I can the cut it down for the joint collar?
Click to expand...

Core the cue full length with a 3/4 dowel........... turn the joint end of the coring dowel down to 5/8 for the rings and joint collar.

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
Core the cue full length with a 3/4 dowel........... turn the joint end of the coring dowel down to 5/8 for the rings and joint collar.

Kim
Click to expand...

Do you use gorilla glue? I really thought about cutting 3/4 ends with a handle center out of one 30" piece and putting butt cap and forearm on but I was afraid that with gorilla glue where it swells out each end it would cause a hydraulic effect and possibly bust the wood. Can anyone pitch in that does this and maybe tell if TightBond would be the best or DP420?
 
deadbeat said:
Do you use gorilla glue? I really thought about cutting 3/4 ends with a handle center out of one 30" piece and putting butt cap and forearm on but I was afraid that with gorilla glue where it swells out each end it would cause a hydraulic effect and possibly bust the wood. Can anyone pitch in that does this and maybe tell if TightBond would be the best or DP420?
Click to expand...

DB,

The Polyglue like GG will gap fill but will not induce hydraulic pressure to crack anything.

JMO,

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
DB,

The Polyglue like GG will gap fill but will not induce hydraulic pressure to crack anything.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...

Hydraulic pressure only matters on blind holes.
On bottomless holes. there's no hydraulic pressure.

5/8 drill won't work for for forearm core size if you use parts with 5/8 ID .
 
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Keep in mind that in order to use a full .750" core dowel, you'll need a gun drill slightly larger. Say .755 to .758. There needs to be a little room so they will go together.

I do prefer using a slightly larger drill as opposed to turning the core smaller. I like keeping the core at .750" to fit my rings properly. If you turn down the core, the rings are sloppy at the handle and at the butt sleeve.


Royce
 
Ok,

I think I'll use a 30 inch dowel and turn the front 12 inches down to .748. I'll gun drill my forearm wood to .750 and GG it over the front. Then I can just turn down my last 6 inches to .750 and just drill and bore the butt sleeve and I should have any sloppy rings. That would allow me to open up my joint collars to perfect bore and then cut the .748 core down to size to fit them snug.

Thanks for all the help.
 
I have my coring drills made .775" and .650" instead of 3/4" and 5/8". This way I can turn the ends down to ring size.
 
cueman said:
I have my coring drills made .775" and .650" instead of 3/4" and 5/8". This way I can turn the ends down to ring size.
Click to expand...

I thought you had a .700 for forearms. That works good too if you counter
bore the bottom.
I have .758 and .883.
 
I use a .670 for forearms and a .750 from top of handle back . Never do I go .750 out the forearm . Jim
 
RBC said:
Keep in mind that in order to use a full .750" core dowel, you'll need a gun drill slightly larger. Say .755 to .758. There needs to be a little room so they will go together.

I do prefer using a slightly larger drill as opposed to turning the core smaller. I like keeping the core at .750" to fit my rings properly. If you turn down the core, the rings are sloppy at the handle and at the butt sleeve.


Royce
Click to expand...

You can leave the bottom of the dowel a bit oversize if all you have is a .750. I have a .758 and haven't used it.
 
cueman said:
I have my coring drills made .775" and .650" instead of 3/4" and 5/8". This way I can turn the ends down to ring size.
Click to expand...

You're going to make me spend more money.....aren't you?

The pic is for Joey and his affinity for machinery.
 

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cueman said:
I have my coring drills made .775" and .650" instead of 3/4" and 5/8". This way I can turn the ends down to ring size.
Click to expand...

I fully core my cues and I cannot do this......... I could not get a .750 ring to go on at the A joint or at the bottom of the handle..............

I use a .750 core drill all the way through the cue and turn the joint to .625 for the collar and rings................

Kim
 
I would think the core & bore should be determined first before anything else, then rings made to fit after the fact. Rings are accents, decoration that adds absolutely nothing to the solidity or performance of a cue. Why would somebody allow them to dictate their decisions for core & bore sizes? If you're using pre-made rings then I can understand it to a point, but if you have the capability to properly use a gun drill then you should also be as capable of machining your own rings and collars. Just thinking out loud.....
 
qbilder said:
I would think the core & bore should be determined first before anything else, then rings made to fit after the fact. Rings are accents, decoration that adds absolutely nothing to the solidity or performance of a cue. Why would somebody allow them to dictate their decisions for core & bore sizes? If you're using pre-made rings then I can understand it to a point, but if you have the capability to properly use a gun drill then you should also be as capable of machining your own rings and collars. Just thinking out loud.....
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Assuming all those rings and joints material come in rods.
Years ago you could get phenolic tubes with 9/16 instead of 5/8.
Meaning if you liked to thread your collars and used 5/8 ID stock nickel or brass rings, you can use those 9/16 ID tubes. Of course you can get phenolic rods and drill them yourself. Some don't want to deal with all that waste and labor. Or more nasty phenolic dust.
So CH sells .650 gun drill for those who want to use stock 5/8 ID parts and press fit the collar.
Nowadays, I bore my rings to .675" ( made a jig similar to DZ's to be able to do that ) and .885" at the bottom. .750" and .875" core dowels work for me.
.675"-.700" core dowels wouldn't hurt either but I've had no reason to get them. I don't use just maple for cores anyway. There's plenty of choices to play with depending on the mission.
And for those who use 5C collets, they might need to stick with standard sizes. Those who like to use a bearing on the steady rest, standard sizes might make it a little easier too.
 
The last 2 posts had some great information.
The problem with 5c collets is the use of standard sizes unless you make you own bored out collets. So I went back to using the ER40 collets.
With the bearing rest, I use a larger bearing and make up concentric bushes to suite, or I use the ER40 steady rest that I made up.
If you are making your own ring billets etc, the core size is irrelevant, as you can make it to suite. In my case, my core is a taper carbon fibre tube. So to use standard components, I make an adapter sleeve to make up the difference.
 
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