One pocket is pretty much all I play. I've seen more games lost by trying to stay safe than by cinching this shot.obviously nobody yet here has ever played onepocket more than maybe a few games.
shame on you pat. think about it.
pj
chgo
One pocket is pretty much all I play. I've seen more games lost by trying to stay safe than by cinching this shot.obviously nobody yet here has ever played onepocket more than maybe a few games.
shame on you pat. think about it.
Well I can’t do it either way:wink: Not sure how Ronnie did it, just that I trust the witness that told me the story.You can make a no-rail spot shot without getting fancy. A slow roll will do it.
The way I shoot this is the masse. To clarify, you don't curve prior to contact and then hit it from a thick approach angle. You slide the ball so far that it makes contact with the object ball and cuts it in, then is slides to a stop. It's a cool shot. I'm very low percentage from the kitchen even with both hands. But if I'm a foot away from a ball I can often stop my rock dead while cutting the ball in.Well I can’t do it either way:wink: Not sure how Ronnie did it, just that I trust the witness that told me the story.
On some cloth and conditions, you can do it with just a drag draw shot.Well I can’t do it either way:wink: Not sure how Ronnie did it, just that I trust the witness that told me the story.
I knock the shot out of that ball too. Draw it like th heartless man said above.I like firing that ball in. High percentage it goes, if it doesn't, there wont be a cross corner.
Ok I put on my lab coat and took it to the table. I alternated between methods. My first make was the curve ball which left the cue ball approximately 6 inches from the end rail. A couple of attempts later I made it with center ball and the cue ball stopped an inch off the rail. Still alternating I had 2 successful center ball cuts with no curve ball success. Each center ball success left me a little further from the rail each time with the last stopping 3 inches clear.The way I shoot this is the masse. To clarify, you don't curve prior to contact and then hit it from a thick approach angle. You slide the ball so far that it makes contact with the object ball and cuts it in, then is slides to a stop. It's a cool shot. I'm very low percentage from the kitchen even with both hands. But if I'm a foot away from a ball I can often stop my rock dead while cutting the ball in.
My world thanks you for your awareness of foot/head ends of the table.If I have a spot shot at one pocket and I'm not comfortable with the simple, slow roller for any reason, I'm going to play it with outside draw to kill the cue ball off the side rail and try to park it on the foot rail.
And one can also draw an angle out of a straight shot with same spinglish.The way I shoot this is the masse. To clarify, you don't curve prior to contact and then hit it from a thick approach angle. You slide the ball so far that it makes contact with the object ball and cuts it in, then is slides to a stop. It's a cool shot. I'm very low percentage from the kitchen even with both hands. But if I'm a foot away from a ball I can often stop my rock dead while cutting the ball in.
Ok I put on my lab coat and took it to the table. I alternated between methods. My first make was the curve ball which left the cue ball approximately 6 inches from the end rail. A couple of attempts later I made it with center ball and the cue ball stopped an inch off the rail. Still alternating I had 2 successful center ball cuts with no curve ball success. Each center ball success left me a little further from the rail each time with the last stopping 3 inches clear.
My conclusion is the curve ball requires more skill but gives a quicker stop. My choice for money would be center ball, at this time. The masse will be getting more of my practice time now though.
This experiment also shows that in one pocket I can play the slow roll and not be in danger of leaving the sell out cross corner bank if I miss.Agreed on center ball. Two key points - hit the ball as full as you can (cheat pocket) and the CB has to be rolling as SLOW as possible at contact.
Yes, there was a whole thread about just this shot a year or two ago. The best you can do is leave the cue ball about 8 to 10 inches from the foot rail (without hitting any rail). You can probably do it more easily if you use a light cue ball, but that would be cheating.You can make a no-rail spot shot without getting fancy. A slow roll will do it.
Well, yes, that is pretty rare -- in fact I don't think I've ever seen it -- but almost the same is when the only other ball on the table is behind the line after a scratch.how many games have you guys played where there was just one ball left on the table and you both needed one ball. and you had a spot shot to win the game.
I prefer to go all in on spot shots in this situation and would prefer to max out my make percentage than start planning for a miss.
In One Pocket, you both need one ball. It is your shot...a spot shot, cue ball in the kitchen, and your pocket is on the left. What English would you put on the shot? I have heard several strong opinions....What is yours???
The "easy setup" shot from closer to the side rail (at a little higher speed) works out exactly the same. Both of these are hit centerball.If I had ball in hand, in the kitchen, on a spot shot at one pocket, I would put my cueball near the center of the table behind the line maybe a hair to the side of my pocket and back cut the ball in , that would bring the cueball back up to the top rail, and leave the ball somewhere near my pocket even if I missed .
I thought the same thing when I read this but didnt want to point out the obvious.how many games have you guys played where there was just one ball left on the table and you both needed one ball. and you had a spot shot to win the game.
Are you saying that if you shoot both shots to get the cueball to the same position on the side rail of your pocket , that the object ball, if it doesn't go in the pocket, travels the same distance?The "easy setup" shot from closer to the side rail (at a little higher speed) works out exactly the same. Both of these are hit centerball.
pj
chgo
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how many games have you guys played where there was just one ball left on the table and you both needed one ball. and you had a spot shot to win the game.
Huh? It is pretty common scenario to hav a single ball left in the game and a scratch to occur. Only one ball spots in that case and the position of the single ball preceding the scratch could be unplayable...as bob said, coz it is behind the headstring, though it could really be anywhere that is less favorable to incoming player than the spotted ball.I thought the same thing when I read this but didnt want to point out the obvious.
It could happen playing someone where their fouls dont count
As for Bob's scenario he slept that due to a scratch there will be a ball on the spot and 1 in the kitchen.
In reality if you miss a spot shot you are probably giving up a return shot. Get close enough to the pocket to come off the points and there is trouble ahead. Shoot hard enough to get whitey uptable and that object ball has to go somewhere. You didnt hit the shot right it doesnt have to work out right.