Table size for my room....
- Thread starter DrJ
- Start date
Yes, Honestly, I think youd have more fun with an 8', youd have more room, If you have to have a 9' you might be moving some walls sooner or later, as Im in the same situation with an 8' its tight, Im renovating so I can house a 9' 18x22 Is what Im thinking.. I also use a 62" cue, so I need more room than someone with a 57" cue...
SPINDOKTOR
SPINDOKTOR
I thought you needed 13' wide for a 7' table using a 57" cue. Length wise 17' should be enough for a 7'. I'd put a 7' Diamond in there with some real tight pockets. Plenty of room for that.
Merry Christmas
Banger
Merry Christmas
Banger
just a suggestion that i went with many years ago - check out pro 8 sized tables - you don't loose much of the 9 foot size and it gives you a few more inches to play with. i think my room at the time was around that size and it seemed to work pretty nicely.
best of luck.
best of luck.
You can just squeeze a 9' in here. It's tight but workable. You may have a few tight shots with the cue ball on the rail. And may want to keep a 52" cue handy. That will work fine.
If you go with the oversize 8' table, you will experience no such problems. It's 4" less in width on the playing surface, and 8" less in length also. You will not need any short cues on any shots. This is a good table size as well. The playing surface is 46" x 92". On a 9', it is 50" x 100".
Remember if you put bar stools or other furniture in the room, that will make the space seem smaller yet. People who are sitting in the way, may have to move over when you are shooting, but that's no big deal. And a player may have to move a bar stool out of the way for their stance. Also no big deal.
Just do not put any fixed furniture in place around the table. Anything that restricts the playing area will be problematical.
If you go with the oversize 8' table, you will experience no such problems. It's 4" less in width on the playing surface, and 8" less in length also. You will not need any short cues on any shots. This is a good table size as well. The playing surface is 46" x 92". On a 9', it is 50" x 100".
Remember if you put bar stools or other furniture in the room, that will make the space seem smaller yet. People who are sitting in the way, may have to move over when you are shooting, but that's no big deal. And a player may have to move a bar stool out of the way for their stance. Also no big deal.
Just do not put any fixed furniture in place around the table. Anything that restricts the playing area will be problematical.
I posted this in the other thread but thought it was important enough to add here so the main forum can read it. I think the last paragraph is the most important, and will give you the best feel for YOUR particular stance, stroke, height, style of play, and available room:
I'm a tall player 6'-3" and I play with a 59" cue and hold the cue at the very end on many shots.
I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".
I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.
Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.
I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".
Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.
I'm a tall player 6'-3" and I play with a 59" cue and hold the cue at the very end on many shots.
I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".
I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.
Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.
I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".
Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.
Without anything else in the room, it will be tight on the width even for a regular 8'. If you really want to play without interference, that is. Using a normal cue with a bumper, you'd only have about a 3" stroke on a regular 8' table, if the cueball was frozen against the cushion.DrJ said:
I would not recommend a 9' or even an oversized 8' (pro 8) table for your room. You'd be using a "short stick" too often for fun, but that's your decision.
Fred <~~~ thinks those "minimum size" charts should be illegal
He's wrong, slightly. It's an oversight that if you add 10 to the length, you need to add ~10' 4" to the width to get the same amount of free space at the width as the length. If you don't, you wont have "plenty of room" on the width.steveharn said:
The better way to do room size is to take actual measurements of the playing width and length, and add a cuestick length (real, not imaginary) plus stroke length. I like to start at 6" and then compromise from there.
Fred
Table size
I completely agree with Jay Helfert. I have an oversized 8' (46 x 92). My room is 14' 4" x 24'. I have just enough room to use a full lenght cue all the time. Also keep in mind that an oversized 8' is perfect since you can go up to a 9' easily and down to a bar box easily in tournament play.
I completely agree with Jay Helfert. I have an oversized 8' (46 x 92). My room is 14' 4" x 24'. I have just enough room to use a full lenght cue all the time. Also keep in mind that an oversized 8' is perfect since you can go up to a 9' easily and down to a bar box easily in tournament play.
I agonized over the decision to put an 8-footer or a 9-footer in my pool room, which has a width of 14'2" (length was not an issue)- I went with an 8-footer and I couldn't be happier- there is no feeling of being cramped at all, and I can take a full stroke form anywhere.
