1" joint diameter- pros and cons?
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I have an old Valley supreme house cue that I want converted. It was my favorite cue at the bar and I played at my best with it. It was my main cue every time I went for 2 years until someone let it drop and the shaft cracked. I took it home and plan to salvage it because the butt is super solid.
When converted, I want the points up high, right near the joint. A maple handle will be added to reduce the weight a little bit.
The current diameter 1" after the points is 1", so I figured if there wouldnt be a problem, why not leave the integrity there instead of trying to taper it down dramatically.
When converted, I want the points up high, right near the joint. A maple handle will be added to reduce the weight a little bit.
The current diameter 1" after the points is 1", so I figured if there wouldnt be a problem, why not leave the integrity there instead of trying to taper it down dramatically.
Ok Now understand.
Most shaft wood is bought in one inch square or round stock so a one inch joint dont leave much room for error.
All most all of the cue makers that hang around here have the skill and ability to do what you want done and I am sure some of them will contact you about it.
Valley house cues were fat handled cues and hit rather stiff.
What I would recommend would be to have the Valley house cue cut up into a forearm section and a butt sleeve. Make the joint .85" with a butt taper that will give you a nice fat handle like the house cue had.
Select a shaft taper that will give you that stiffer hit like the house cue had.
For the handle area it can be plain or fancy wood, or wrapped with leather or linen.
What do you think?
Most shaft wood is bought in one inch square or round stock so a one inch joint dont leave much room for error.
All most all of the cue makers that hang around here have the skill and ability to do what you want done and I am sure some of them will contact you about it.
Valley house cues were fat handled cues and hit rather stiff.
What I would recommend would be to have the Valley house cue cut up into a forearm section and a butt sleeve. Make the joint .85" with a butt taper that will give you a nice fat handle like the house cue had.
Select a shaft taper that will give you that stiffer hit like the house cue had.
For the handle area it can be plain or fancy wood, or wrapped with leather or linen.
What do you think?
Ok here's what I'm talking about. I plan to leave the forearm fat with a skinny handle, with the handle tapering from 1.15" at the buttcap to 1.27" at the A joint, giving the butt a cigar shaped taper.
It may be odd and it may be ugly, but it will be stiff and well balanced and should hit well with some good shaft wood.
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It may be odd and it may be ugly, but it will be stiff and well balanced and should hit well with some good shaft wood.
The 1" joint and using a handle you are not going to end up with the same hitting cue. If you like the way the cue hits before it broke try to salvage 29-30" of the butt and then get a shaft made for it. More than likely you will not be happy with what you are going to end up with. Just some ramblings from a wood nut...
If You Enjoy The Playing Charachteristics Of A 2x4, Than The 1" Diameter Joint Should Be Fine.....lol....
1" Is Way To Huge. You'll Have No Feel In Your Back Hand At All.
1" Is Way To Huge. You'll Have No Feel In Your Back Hand At All.
I suggest scrapping the 1" joint idea and tapering the butt to where the end of the points are near normal joint size. Then chop the piece off a foot or so back from where you want your joint and then have a handle added to it. This way you get the look you are after with the end of the points near the joint and maintain a decent playing cue. Or else you will have a very strange tapered shaft to match the butt if you leave it at 1".
you said the shaft broke?
Why make further alterations that will destroy the old feel you liked so much? It is one thing to salvage the butt and make a custom shaft and join that with a pin to make a "Valley" sneaky pete. That alteration alone will slightly forward balance the cue by the weight of the pin, approx 1 oz. If you want the same total weight we can sometimes hollow out, or core the butt some. Most any of us here can easily do the job you need done. We can also use an aluminum or titanium pin that will keep the weight very close to original. Or you can permanently join it to make a long house cue again as well.
Why make that strange cigar shaped butt? Was the damage too far into the butt, so you wanted to make that cigar shape? The forearm can be added to if needed, instead of adding to the butt end.
By sliding the points forward you make it heavier, very forward weighted in the butt and destroy the old hit and balance. Then try and make the handle skinny to compensate. Sounds very counterproductive. I would give it almost no chance of being like it was before the damage. Unless you use a generous dose of medicinal spirits to enhance your judgment when test driving the repaired cue. Best of luck.
Why make further alterations that will destroy the old feel you liked so much? It is one thing to salvage the butt and make a custom shaft and join that with a pin to make a "Valley" sneaky pete. That alteration alone will slightly forward balance the cue by the weight of the pin, approx 1 oz. If you want the same total weight we can sometimes hollow out, or core the butt some. Most any of us here can easily do the job you need done. We can also use an aluminum or titanium pin that will keep the weight very close to original. Or you can permanently join it to make a long house cue again as well.
Why make that strange cigar shaped butt? Was the damage too far into the butt, so you wanted to make that cigar shape? The forearm can be added to if needed, instead of adding to the butt end.
By sliding the points forward you make it heavier, very forward weighted in the butt and destroy the old hit and balance. Then try and make the handle skinny to compensate. Sounds very counterproductive. I would give it almost no chance of being like it was before the damage. Unless you use a generous dose of medicinal spirits to enhance your judgment when test driving the repaired cue. Best of luck.
The parabolic tapered cigar shaped butt has been brewing in my head for a while now, and when this cue broke I decided it was a good opportunity to try it out. I love the cue but I also love to experiment and I dont really mind if it doesnt work out, at least I gave my idea a shot. I will probably to what Mr. Hightower said and have the forearm tapered down to a more realistic joint size. If it works out and I end up with a good player I will let you guys know!
Plus...it will very hard to find a case that will fit it.
I've got a Dufferin cue that has a 1" joint and a reverse taper for the handle. I used it as a break cue, which it was pretty effective for. They quit making it shortly before they went bankrupt, so I haven't seen any since and I can't quite remember the name for it.
Some of the issues with this design have been mentioned, namely it doesn't fit in a standard case and the shaft is so fat at the joint that it made the taper somewhat uncomfortable. I don't recall the feedback as being an issue but I was using it as a breaker so I wasn't too concerned with it.
I'd like to see someone build something like this and see what they could come up with. It would surely be forward balanced and have a fairly thin handle, things a lot of guys are looking for. Nothing wrong with a little R&D project
Eric
Some of the issues with this design have been mentioned, namely it doesn't fit in a standard case and the shaft is so fat at the joint that it made the taper somewhat uncomfortable. I don't recall the feedback as being an issue but I was using it as a breaker so I wasn't too concerned with it.
I'd like to see someone build something like this and see what they could come up with. It would surely be forward balanced and have a fairly thin handle, things a lot of guys are looking for. Nothing wrong with a little R&D project
Eric
Both my cases can accept cues pieces in 31" length and 1.3" diameters so I will not have a problem, since my cue wont be that thick or that length.
Even if it seems strange the cigar taper is in no way new and is currently in use by black boar and jacoby and maybe more. This taper gives the cue an extra "punch" which is hard to describe but I like it. It feels more powerful, with all that mass in front of your hand. That is why I want the hardwood and points all in front of the grip, or else I would just chop the house cue in half and add a new shaft. All the weight in this cue will be at the balance point, with the lighter maple on both sides of the point wood. I can then use the weight bolt and joint screw to fine tune the weight and balance. The handle diameter can be thicker if need be in order to balance the cue correctly. As long as the heaviest section is located in front of the wrap.
Even if it seems strange the cigar taper is in no way new and is currently in use by black boar and jacoby and maybe more. This taper gives the cue an extra "punch" which is hard to describe but I like it. It feels more powerful, with all that mass in front of your hand. That is why I want the hardwood and points all in front of the grip, or else I would just chop the house cue in half and add a new shaft. All the weight in this cue will be at the balance point, with the lighter maple on both sides of the point wood. I can then use the weight bolt and joint screw to fine tune the weight and balance. The handle diameter can be thicker if need be in order to balance the cue correctly. As long as the heaviest section is located in front of the wrap.
I didn't taper It down or convert It, but simply cut in 2 and made a 2pc from a dufferin that had about a .935 joint. It broke racks like a mac truck, until one night when I cracked a rack with just about all the snap I could muster up, then the shaft practically exploded in My hand. I learned My lesson, and that was probably the last time I will do a cue without a collar. The cue played alright, and It did have a stiff joint. There wasn't much vibration in the joint area or the cue as a whole for that matter, but due to the stiff taper of the shaft, It also didn't have much flex, so I'm sure that didn't help My situation.
With a fat joint around an inch or slightly under makes for a jam up break cue, thread the but for an adjustable wieght bolt system and it will start to balance out and feel better. Make it a a little shorter in length and it will stiffen up even more for a thumper break cue.
As for a playing cue it didnt play that good but was one of my best break cues.
Craig
As for a playing cue it didnt play that good but was one of my best break cues.
Craig
dave sutton
Banned
balance and playabiliy would be the problem. also gl finding a cuemaker to try something crazy like that. i wouldnt want my name attached to it.
this would prob hit better:grin: :grin: :grin:
this would prob hit better:grin: :grin: :grin: