1Pocket: what would you do?

How about knocking the 4 and 8 away from his pocket? Kick one rail into 8 into the 4 away from the pocket. Also I want to know what kind of world half the people on this site live in betting a few hundred here a few thousand there on sets and shots. I want to know where in the US everyone has that kind of pocket change, because me and my family will relocate! I'm not saying it can't be true, but I have a sneaking suspicion that a lot of people are full of it about how much they play for. Just my opinion. I await a few flames for this one :-)
 
ledrums said:
How about knocking the 4 and 8 away from his pocket? Kick one rail into 8 into the 4 away from the pocket. Also I want to know what kind of world half the people on this site live in betting a few hundred here a few thousand there on sets and shots. I want to know where in the US everyone has that kind of pocket change, because me and my family will relocate! I'm not saying it can't be true, but I have a sneaking suspicion that a lot of people are full of it about how much they play for. Just my opinion. I await a few flames for this one :-)
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Because it's a horrible shot to try to attempt.

I understand what you're saying about the money - but it's true. If anyone wants to bet against me shooting this shot they can, and I'll bet what I said I would. No flaming, I agree that a lot of people are full of it - but why would I not bet that here? It's a lock.
 
As i said this shot does work,for me i hit it i believe 4-5 out of 10 times and the one rail kick to the 4 which is my choice 8-9 out of 10 times,so for me i will go with the percentages and go one rail,easier to judge speed and less can go wrong IMO.I know a few of the knowledgeable guys on here have also concurred the 1 rail is best,the 6 rail is creative but not needed when you can get the same result from one or 2 rails.I would like to hear Gradys,Freddy,or Keith chime in on this one and then maybe we will know what the best shot is. :)
 
I think the scratch/scratch and then pushing the cue out to a straight shot on the four (frozen to head rail) is a great idea playing a weaker player the more I think about it.

Kicking one or two rails does not provide the same results as the 6-railer. If you cannot see why then I'm not going to bother explaining it.
 
if you cant see either ball then trying to hit either one is suicide. take a hickey and try to position the cue ball around his pocket. you spot one and if he tries to 3 rail the 4 then he has to get the cue out of the way without giving you a shot on either the 8 or the spotted ball. in this situation i say take a hickey. my .02.
 
Neil...

"Actually", You're wrong. The guy wouldn't need one, he would need two. I very specifically said in that post that "I think the scratch/scratch and then pushing the cue out to a straight shot on the four". But you should know that, you quoted me saying it.

And no, the one rail and the 6 rail don't offer the same results, because one-rail lagging to that safe-zone = you have no shot of hitting those balls unless you do by complete accident. With the 6-railer you are trying to hit the 8, and if you miss you're safe.

So you mean to tell me that when a player sets up a game he will hands down play on ANY table without having any idea how it plays? He's not even going to bank the cue around and lag it to see if it has any dead-rails or funny rolls?... wow, I must be stupid for doing that before I play someone on a table I'm not used to - why take away the surprise?
Seriously though, not testing out the table a bit before playing for something of value, that would be really stupid, I don't care who does it... for all you know you're walking into a huge gaffer game.

The shot isn't MY shot, it's a shot someone showed me. I thought he was crazy when he showed it to me, but then I tried it.
 
AZE said:
So you mean to tell me that when a player sets up a game he will hands down play on ANY table without having any idea how it plays? He's not even going to bank the cue around and lag it to see if it has any dead-rails or funny rolls?... wow, I must be stupid for doing that before I play someone on a table I'm not used to - why take away the surprise?
Seriously though, not testing out the table a bit before playing for something of value, that would be really stupid, I don't care who does it... for all you know you're walking into a huge gaffer game.
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Here is the advantage of playing on a strange table if you are gambling. You are learning the table as you go along. If you are matched up right your game on the table is going to get better as you learn the table and your opponent. You are not necessarily stalling, but you are feeling the player and the table out at the same time. By the time you get the player and the table down you know if you are in a game you want to go ahead with. Years ago I traveled around the country playing golf on snooker tables, which has a terrific home court advantage. I almost always got beat the first session or two while I adjusted to the rules and the table. By the time I got it down, the bet was up a little higher and I won a lot more $$ than if I just started out winning. Home court advantage on a pool table is not near what it is on a snooker table and a decent player is going to adjust fairly quickly. In my opinion if you won't play on a table until you have it down, you have one foot out the door already, are too careful about matching up and don't book as many or as big winners as you might if you just got up and played. Having said this and looking back, I have blown my cash many times over the years, but by god I was always in action. John Henderson
 
To Neil, I suggested the scratch, scratch and then leave the shot straight in. However I also suggested that in order to leave the straight shot you need to come off the opposite tit to bring the cue ball back to the long rail to leave it as close to the rail as possble.

He now needs two balls and you need four. If the four ball is frozen then this is an extremely difficult shot because he needs to slow roll this to keep from following cue ball in. With this distance, and having to go pass the side pocket points, any table drift would be disasterious. If you're able to get the cue ball very tight to the rail the shot you leave is not an automatic. If he decides to hit firm to stop the cue ball then things can really go wrong for him. In either case if he pockets the ball position is highly unlikely. If it's a tight pocket table and I'm not sure of the equiptment I'm not convinced I would even shoot at this ball and give up my advantage.
 
dabarbr said:
To Neil, I suggested the scratch, scratch and then leave the shot straight in. However I also suggested that in order to leave the straight shot you need to come off the opposite tit to bring the cue ball back to the long rail to leave it as close to the rail as possble.

He now needs two balls and you need four. If the four ball is frozen then this is an extremely difficult shot because he needs to slow roll this to keep from following cue ball in. With this distance, and having to go pass the side pocket points, any table drift would be disasterious. If you're able to get the cue ball very tight to the rail the shot you leave is not an automatic. If he decides to hit firm to stop the cue ball then things can really go wrong for him. In either case if he pockets the ball position is highly unlikely. If it's a tight pocket table and I'm not sure of the equiptment I'm not convinced I would even shoot at this ball and give up my advantage.
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Great minds think alike. Your idea on how to play it guarantees you are still in the game even though the odds are long. The only thing I would have done different (not necessarily better depending on your feel) is to just touch the cueball close to the rail (so he isn't hooked). I know I can shoot pretty good but I am with you that I probably wouldn't shoot the ball down the rail because too much can go wrong.
 
Sorry to butt in. I'm very new to this forum.

If my Dad saw me swinging at that 6? rail solution, he would slap me in the back of the head. If I am skilled enough to execute a 6 rail shot, aren't I skilled enough to do it with one or two??? Do I really want to trust the equipment that much?

Don't forget the K.I.S.S. principle.

Just one man's opinion.
 
wayne said:
Great minds think alike. Your idea on how to play it guarantees you are still in the game even though the odds are long. The only thing I would have done different (not necessarily better depending on your feel) is to just touch the cueball close to the rail (so he isn't hooked). I know I can shoot pretty good but I am with you that I probably wouldn't shoot the ball down the rail because too much can go wrong.
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Wayne, the reason I would not just push to the other rail and let him take it from there would depend on if we are playing the three foul rule or not. He can again put me back into the original position and now possable loss of game.

If we are not playing the three foul rule the I would take three for four fouls before pushing out.
 
I tried the 6 railer shots ten times tonight. I have got to agree that it's very easy to do. There is one thing different here: I have to aim pass the 1st diamond in order to make it go long on the 4th rail. This is a GC IV with fast cloth.

The other shot I mentioned earlier (page 2) is nearly impossible to do at parking speed ..

CueTable Help



Thanks for the interesting shot!
 
I Tried it.

I gave you (AZE) the benefit of the doubt. I gave it a shot, my results;

shooting my one rail skim the eight "terrible shot"
#1. I didn't scratch in 10 shots
#2. I made a legal hit and left no return bank 6 times
#3. three times I left very difficult shots for my opponent
#4 once I muffed it and left him an easy out

shooting your six rail kick

#1. I was surprised. The first time I shot it. it worked exactly as you said. I made a legal hit and I was safe.

#2 I was never able to recreate the shot. I either scratched or left an easy out 7 times. the other two shots were no hit fouls.

I still say consistency is 75% of the game and knowing your own skills makes up the other 25%. if the highlight reel 6 railer makes you feel good when your hanging with your buddies.. then shoot it. but when the pressure is on I'm going for consistency.. Every time.
 
I tried it 5 times, 1st time worked great, just as planned, bottom line 2times perfect, 1 time foul and 2 times left on wrong side of 8, I think I would try it in a game if I had not shot.
 
cuetable said:
I tried the 6 railer shots ten times tonight. I have got to agree that it's very easy to do. There is one thing different here: I have to aim pass the 1st diamond in order to make it go long on the 4th rail. This is a GC IV with fast cloth.

The other shot I mentioned earlier (page 2) is nearly impossible to do at parking speed ..

CueTable Help



Thanks for the interesting shot!
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I'm glad you tried it out and liked it. I can't believe that for some people it's 'very easy to do' and for other people they claim they can only execute it 1:5. I would think this either means they are playing on horrible equipment or they really need to work on their games.

There are reasons why 6 rails is better than one or two here. If you can't see that, don't know that, or don't want to go find out why but still want to argue - then you're just ignorant and "a wise man once told me don't argue with fools, because people from a distance can't tell who is who".

Overall I am just glad to see this many people showing an interest in 1P.
 
AZE said:
So here are the results. Everyone who has tried the shot says it works exactly as I said, you have a chance to hit the 8, and you're for sure going to leave them safe.
I tried the shot and I like it. Dont know if I will use the shot shown but, There are many variations that will work with this thought process. On my table I am about 92% on getting safe and 70% on getting a legal hit.
Thanks AZE
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cuetable said:
I will trade 1 scratch each and bring the score to 6:5 first. The I will try another intentional scratch like either one of these (2 pages.) Aim to leave the CB in the red zone:

CueTable Help

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Wei,

How do you draw the "red zone" on the table?

Oh, your PM inbox is full as well ;)

-td
 
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