3/8 10 frustrations

Facundus Cues

Facundus Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
OK I am having a hard time threading 3/8 10 into wood. I am building a couple jump breaks and trying to tap the forearms. I have tapped many things in my life including wood but these keep stripping threads. I have tried by hand - under power - drill .295 - .312 - super glue on threads. I had one come out decent but I do not know what else to try. The tap I have came with the lathe I bought second hand and the best that I can figure is that it just sucks. It is a 3 flute taper head about 3" long with 1.2" worth of threads. I just ordered the .308 pilot from Atlas today and I hope will be easier to use with the pilot. I plan to use up the rest of the 3/8 10 that I have and then use the modified self centering pins from here on out. Any suggestions an or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated
 
glue in a 1/2 inch dia phenolic rod about 2 inches long............. drill it with a 5/16 drill and tap it 3/8-10.............

I do this on every shaft I make


Kim
 
A phenolic insert is a wonderful option for the 3/8x10 thrd. but since
your question was about tapping wood, let's address that first.

A tap is meant to last a lifetime unless broken.
A tap is sharpened similarly to a drill-bit; takes about 20 sec.
If I could do something in 20 seconds that would save me $75,
I'd be giving it some serious thought. Not all will do that though.

I'm not sure about the need for chemicals and additives to tap a hole in wood.
After you've developed your technique, the process is pretty straight-forward.
Tools are funny. Because you own it doesn't mean you know how to use it.
The same applies to machinery. You don't wake-up with knowledge, you develop it.
That's not being harsh, that's telling you the truth.

All mtrls. drill and tap differently. You should learn them all that apply.
Sounds like you need to waste some wood. It's a learning process.
Mine started 60 yrs ago and no end in sight.
 
whammo57 said:
glue in a 1/2 inch dia phenolic rod about 2 inches long............. drill it with a 5/16 drill and tap it 3/8-10.............

I do this on every shaft I make


Kim
Click to expand...

Kim, what you suggest is called a work around, but doesn't tell him what is going wrong in the process of his tapping. I also use a phenolic insert, but it's not because the threads are shitty, but for longevity reasons. Recommending this as an alternative to doing wood threads is Sorta like boring into a ferrule because you can't get a tip to stick to a ferrule on a break cue, it Doesn't solve the issue.

To the OP, it can be a few things compounded, but first and foremost, buy a new tap....you don't know what that tap has been thru, and quite frankly, even if slightly dull, will tear the wood and make a mess. If you use that same tap on phenolic, you will be back asking more questions as to why it doesn't cut usable threads into that also. A sharp tap and a properly bored hole, and some paraffin wax will do wonders.
PM sent,
Dave
 
Using a bit of wax on the tap, helps alot.
Having said that, I prefer phenolic inserts, not because it taps better, but it's more durable.
If you have the tools, i highly recomend you live tool the treads.
 
dafunkdawg said:
OK I am having a hard time threading 3/8 10 into wood. I am building a couple jump breaks and trying to tap the forearms. I have tapped many things in my life including wood but these keep stripping threads. I have tried by hand - under power - drill .295 - .312 - super glue on threads. I had one come out decent but I do not know what else to try. The tap I have came with the lathe I bought second hand and the best that I can figure is that it just sucks. It is a 3 flute taper head about 3" long with 1.2" worth of threads. I just ordered the .308 pilot from Atlas today and I hope will be easier to use with the pilot. I plan to use up the rest of the 3/8 10 that I have and then use the modified self centering pins from here on out. Any suggestions an or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

The Atlas tap will most likely solve your problems. I cut a second for bottoming.

You never mentioned your technique.

Did the guy you bought the lathe from have any issues?

Is the tailstock perfectly aligned?

Are you center drilling?

What kind of bits are you drilling with?

If you keep stripping then my guess would be that the hole you are making is larger than you think. Have you measured the actual hole?

3 flute carbide bits are also a worthy investment. Don't tell anyone though, it's a secret.

Then again, I've been accused of not actually being capable of giving sound advice on cuemaking because I don't post pics of my work so.......
 
Kim Bye said:
Using a bit of wax on the tap, helps alot.
Having said that, I prefer phenolic inserts, not because it taps better, but it's more durable.
If you have the tools, i highly recomend you live tool the treads.
Click to expand...

Do you feel the inside threads are really that much better to warrant the effort? I'll live thread the outsides because, if anyone has seen what a die does to wood, I think it's the only way to go. I apologize to anyone that uses a compression die, but noone can argue the difference in quality. I realize not everyone is set up for live tooling though. I've always thought the 3/8-10 tap from Atlas did a great job.
 
if the hole is close to 5/16 and the tap is reasonably sharp then you should be getting usable threads without much thought or effort. Your not staying on the power too long as to spin out the threads after the tap bottoms? I like to tap on the power but will slightly hand tighten the chuck as to allow the tap to spin in the chuck when it bottoms. Then i tighten it up as much as possible by hand and reverse lathe while pulling the tailstock away from the work.

If your going to buy new stuff, i like Randy's suggestion in using the Atlas tap with lead and then chasing it with a bottoming tap with the end ground off slightly. Not sure if you can buy a true 3/8-10 bottoming tap.
 
pescadoman said:
Do you feel the inside threads are really that much better to warrant the effort? I'll live thread the outsides because, if anyone has seen what a die does to wood, I think it's the only way to go. I apologize to anyone that uses a compression die, but noone can argue the difference in quality. I realize not everyone is set up for live tooling though. I've always thought the 3/8-10 tap from Atlas did a great job.
Click to expand...
If it works, it works, but I do feel that live tooling gives better looking threads, than a tap.
 
dafunkdawg said:
OK I am having a hard time threading 3/8 10 into wood. I am building a couple jump breaks and trying to tap the forearms. I have tapped many things in my life including wood but these keep stripping threads. I have tried by hand - under power - drill .295 - .312 - super glue on threads. I had one come out decent but I do not know what else to try. The tap I have came with the lathe I bought second hand and the best that I can figure is that it just sucks. It is a 3 flute taper head about 3" long with 1.2" worth of threads. I just ordered the .308 pilot from Atlas today and I hope will be easier to use with the pilot. I plan to use up the rest of the 3/8 10 that I have and then use the modified self centering pins from here on out. Any suggestions an or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

What is the TRO on your chuck?

Did you bore the hole before threading or just use a drill?
 
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Wow thanks for all of the input. I have not bored the hole because I do not have a small enough reamer. I do center drill then drill with a .25 bit then a 5/16. I have also tried following the .25 with a .295. I was using new but relatively inexpensive black oxide bits. I do have some select sizes of brand new cobalt bits from an industrial supply out in my shop. I will have to try to see if I have a decent size. I have ordered a .307 reamer for use with the Atlas tap that is coming. I have tried wax on the threads . I have not measured tro on my lathe but I have aligned tailstock and double checked it by putting pointed centers in each and they are pretty much on the money. It is a mid america lathe that I am using so I have no way to use live tooling.
I do have an Enco 14-40 that I have secured a purchase on from a friend but have quite a bit to do in the shop before I get it here. I have a 110' x 26' quanza hut style building that i snot sealed very well. I get a lot of condensation in it so I am going to frame up a 16x 24 room with a window unit in the back end for my "cue shop". That seems to be the most economical way to overcome the tropical rainforest climate here in Louisiana
 
pdcue said:
No, just the best way:)

<I'm not Joey - but that's not my fault.>
Click to expand...
yeah yeah yeah

god, look at these ratty ass threads .
just horrible arent they

its a miracle the cue the cue goes together
 

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Outer threads yes compression die can be rough on wood until you learn the best technique... however tapping internals just takes practice.

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