Agreed, but for a lesser skilled player who doesn't know the best way to go about it yet I think it is smart of them to ask. The OP is asking so he can learn and practice it.
8 ball end game - advice?
- Thread starter jimtauer
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Agreed, but for a lesser skilled player who doesn't know the best way to go about it yet I think it is smart of them to ask. The OP is asking so he can learn and practice it.
Really the only thing to practice in this layout is how to play a ball deep in a pocket to make sure you can hit the right side of it accurately. If you hit it too much to one side you can hit the point and leave the cueball buried in the pocket or even corner hooked, if you juice it too much or hit the wrong side of it with draw you lose your position for the next shot. This particular layout is really immaterial to the fact that players should practice the in the pocket shot. It's easy to make, but not so easy to play position from.
Yes, the deep hanger is always tricky. The point is shooting the 13 first gives the player the opportunity to position the CB for the best shot on the 10.
Against someone who plays bad, this is exactly what I'd do. If you do it to me or anyone else who can play (especially on a bar table), I'm gonna win almost every time. I'm either going to chop that 8 ball in the other corner, or play the 8 ball in the same corner as the 10. If the 8 doesn't follow it in, your 13 is now in trouble.
Agreed on practicing the "ball in jaws" shots. Definitely not something I had even considered practicing a lot before, I can usually figure an out with this few balls left on the table but this one stumped me because of where that 10 ball sat.
BTW, I am definitely not a top player but am in the top 10% within my local league ratings-wise. I consider one's pool game to be a work in progress at all stages, and that there is always something to learn, even from lesser skilled players.
Thanks to those who provided constructive feedback.
Now on to practice those jaws shots....
BTW, I am definitely not a top player but am in the top 10% within my local league ratings-wise. I consider one's pool game to be a work in progress at all stages, and that there is always something to learn, even from lesser skilled players.
Thanks to those who provided constructive feedback.
Now on to practice those jaws shots....
The only thing I would add in defense of shooting the 10 ball first is that IMO it is easier to get goofy on the 8 coming off the 10 than it is to get goofy on the 13 coming off the 10.
If you just hit the 10 with draw, even if you bump the 8 you'll most likely give yourself a good shot on the 13 with easy shape for the 8.
If you overdraw and leave yourself funny for the corner you have the side pocket for the 13.
If you play position on the 8 from the 10 and bump the 8 odds are you are in a tough spot.
And yes. Practice the balls in the jaws shots. I read a BD article a long time ago that recommended that and I did it regularly for several minutes every practice session. It made a huge difference in my win % immediately. Especially in 9-ball where you are often coming to the table after your opponent just jawed the ball you need to shoot next.
If you just hit the 10 with draw, even if you bump the 8 you'll most likely give yourself a good shot on the 13 with easy shape for the 8.
If you overdraw and leave yourself funny for the corner you have the side pocket for the 13.
If you play position on the 8 from the 10 and bump the 8 odds are you are in a tough spot.
And yes. Practice the balls in the jaws shots. I read a BD article a long time ago that recommended that and I did it regularly for several minutes every practice session. It made a huge difference in my win % immediately. Especially in 9-ball where you are often coming to the table after your opponent just jawed the ball you need to shoot next.
I see it the exact opposite. If you are just trying to draw back off the 10 about a foot to shoot the 8 in the type right corner (which is probably the way you should be playing it particularly if you aren't a good player), there is very little that could go wrong. Draw a little too far, or accidentally hit the pocket points/rails, or even if the cue ball stops dead at the ten ball and doesn't draw back at all, and you still have a pretty decent shot on the 8 ball almost no matter what (the eight will never be that far, and the cut angle will never be terribly bad). On the other hand lots of things can go wrong playing shape from the 10 to the 13, where you can get hooked by the 8, and where drawing too far or not far enough comes with much tougher penalties for the 13 in the form of a longer shot, or a tougher cut, or most likely both.
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if playing on a bar tble, esp with a heavier Qball, i'm not sure the the OP is capable of drawing whitey with a degree of comfort or accuracy. i'd suggest he bank the 13 (pocket speed) and let his "low/mid-level" opponent try to follow the 8 in after the 10 at distance
Throw a coaster on the table and let it roll into a position. Then shoot the 10 ball 10 different ways to get the cb to the coaster. I can't take more than 10 or so before I'm bored, but everytime I do this, I learn another way to tweak that shot. It saved me just the other day when I used something I learned from the practicing.
It IS a process, not an event...so keep it fun.
Jeff Livingston
I suggest heading over to Bert Kinister's website and doing a one month sub there, look for his "It's a Hanger" video. While not exactly for a ball fully in the jaws, it deals with situations like that and how to play shots close to a pocket. You will likely enjoy the video and some others so much you will keep the sub going for other videos.
It's A Hanger along with the 9 Ball Workout and the how to make long straight in shots have probably increased my game half a level, and have helped me help the beginner players a lot more.
You are correct in that the 10 ball is tricky to get shape off for a good shot, which is exactly why you should shoot it last. If you shoot the 10 first you are now trying to play shape twice off that ball, once to get to the 13 for a shot on that but you are also playing position on that shot to go from the 13 to the 8. Since the 10 and the 8 are pretty close to each other, you have much more chances to get shape on the 8 from the 10 than to get good shape on the 13 from the 10 then to then play good shape for the 8. All you need to do to the 8 ball is pocket it. If you play 10 to 13 you not only have to pocket the 13 but then play position to get a shot on the 8. You are also a lot more likely to get hooked behind the 8 or hit it if you miss-hit the 10, then you can't even hit the 13. 13 first you may get behind the 8 but that is a much smaller chance.
There are just too many more chances to mess up going 10, 13, 8 instead of 13, 10, 8.
I agree, playing position on a ball that deep in the pocket can be a real hit or miss proposition.
Im cutting the 13 in the side for the 3 rails on the 10, if I end up in an uncomfortable position for going 10 to 8 I will just hit the 10 soft and take the long shot on the 8 to the upper right corner.
My thought is that unless he follows the ten in with the cue ball (which would take a really crappy beginner player to do), it really doesn't much matter how bad he hits it as he will almost certainly have a pretty decent shot at the 8 so there just isn't much degree of comfort or accuracy needed which is the whole point. That is precisely where most of the benefit in shooting the ten ball second comes from in that it is so hard to mess up because you are almost certain to have a decent shot on the 8 no matter what. The same can't be said trying to go from the 10 to the 13 though which is much more touchy and can easily result in a much longer and tougher shot or even in ending up hooked.
I still don't much like the bank and giving the opponent as shot on the eight because it is almost as if the ten isn't there in that if the opponent can put the eight between the jaws and hit the ten it is almost certain to follow the ten in, at least the way he has it diagrammed. Now if the ten is just a bit further back between the jaws instead of hanging on the lip then that changes everything as following it in becomes much more difficult then but as it is diagrammed that ten is buried deep in the pocket hanging on the very edge of the lip and so following it in with the eight is almost a gimme.
From the picture, looks like the 10 ball is hanging on by a hair from dropping in the pocket. Next time start talking to someone in your opponents opposite direction from the table. When he looks away to see who your talking too, give the table a good bump with your leg. Your 10 ball problem will be taken care of.
yes, that seems to be the popular vote, but since he is already in good (comfortable) position to play the 10 ball, thats one reason some would play the 10 ball first .......
From the picture, I can't see why you can't roll the 10 hitting ball first and relatively thin with a little inside and roll above the 8 (relative to the picture). The 13 goes in 4 pockets. I'd be playing for a stop shot in the bottom right.
KMRUNOUT
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KM....how are you going to cut the 10-ball with it hanging in the jaws and froze on the
close corner?
World champions don't like shooting that shot'
Shooting the 13 is the way to go....iif it's a scratch angle cutting it into the side, then draw
to the short rail and back up table.
I want a shot to draw on the 10 and stay back from the 8...shoot it up the long rail.
For the ball to be that deep in the pocket, those are some deep shelves. Nonetheless, it certainly seems like the cueball hits the point and can be directed from there. I hear your opinion. Mine differs. I play of the very edge of the rail frequently. The poster asked how would you play this. I said how. In person, it may look different, and I may elect to play the 13.
KMRUNOUT
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