A 9-ball Brainteaser

sjm

sjm

Older and Wiser
Silver Member
In my continuing effort to heed the call of those posters who want the forum discussion to revert to pool, here's a tricky nine ball position for you to consider.

In the diagram below, the six and eight are clustered but not frozen to each other. The six can't be made in the corner but can be banked in the opposite corner. The eight is 3/4 inch off of the long rail. The present shot on the three is dead straight if you play it in the corner.

What's your approach here to winning this rack? As always, I'm not asking what you think a top pro would do here, I'm asking what you would do. The equipment is medium tight.
 

Attachments

  • 6 and 8 clustered.JPG
    6 and 8 clustered.JPG
    15 KB · Views: 957
Last edited:
I would probably draw back on the three, play the 4 in the side and roll down and barely tap the 8 6 coming off the the rail.
 
SJM,

Go back to your other 9 ball thread in a minute - I'm posting a video for you - it's loading now.


Chris
 
Last edited:
sjm said:
In my continuing effort to heed the call of those posters who want the forum discussion to revert to pool, here's a tricky nine ball position for you to consider.

In the diagram below, the six and eight are clustered but not frozen to each other. The six can't be made in the corner but can be banked in the opposite corner. The eight is 3/4 inch off of the long rail. The present shot on the three is dead straight if you play it in the corner.

What's your approach here to winning this rack? As always, I'm not asking what you think a top pro would do here, I'm asking what you would do. The equipment is medium tight.
Click to expand...
I would play the 3 in the corner and draw the cue back a few inches. Then play the 4 in the side with some left hand english and bump the 8 and 6 to break them up. After I break them up I would have to see where they end up before I could play the rest of the rack. While I could hit them to break them up I am not able to predict where they will end up yet. That is part of my game I am working on.

Thank you for the pool related question. :)
 
sjm said:
In my continuing effort to heed the call of those posters who want the forum discussion to revert to pool, here's a tricky nine ball position for you to consider.

In the diagram below, the six and eight are clustered but not frozen to each other. The six can't be made in the corner but can be banked in the opposite corner. The eight is 3/4 inch off of the long rail. The present shot on the three is dead straight if you play it in the corner.

What's your approach here to winning this rack? As always, I'm not asking what you think a top pro would do here, I'm asking what you would do. The equipment is medium tight.
Click to expand...

Shoot the 3 in the corner and stop. 4 in the corner and stop. 5 down table with one tip of right hand english leaving the cue ball between the 6 and 8.
Shot with right speed and bumping the 8 just an inch or so should leave a routine out and a tough kick on the 5.
 
Stop shot the 3 in the corner, 4 in the side moving down table for shape on the 5 in the corner nearest the 6-8. Pocket the 5 in the corner with high-inside going under the 6-8 to open them up (ideally with a shot on the 6 in the side or upper right corner). Worse case scenario, playing safe on the 6 behind the 8.

If I am successful with a shot on the 6 after the open up, the out is easy.
 
T-dog said:
I would probably draw back on the three, play the 4 in the side and roll down and barely tap the 8 6 coming off the the rail.
Click to expand...
That's what I would do. Took the words right out of my mouth. Even if by the odd chance to miss the 8-6 cluster you would still be in good shape to draw off the 5 into the foot rail and crack them up with hopes of a decent shot.
 
I mis-read the post originally. I think most players would prefer to break the 6/8 with an angle off the 4 and just bump into the six or 8 softly then the 5 is automatic.

Chris
 
I would do as most of the others have said--draw off the 3ball to create an angle for the 4. However, on the ensuing breakout shot, I would try very hard to hit the 6ball as full as possible with a soft stroke. I do not want to hit the 8ball at all. Doing so means the 6ball may not come free and the cueball will glance too much toward the 5ball and may not leave a shot. Ideally, I'd push the 6ball near the corner pocket and leave myself a comfortable angle on the 5ball. Again, hitting either side of the 8ball invites disaster.
 
TATE said:
I mis-read the post originally. I think most players would prefer to break the 6/8 with an angle off the 4 and just bump into the six or 8 softly then the 5 is automatic.

Chris
Click to expand...

Just don't go rail 1st into the 8 and hook yourself.
 
SJM, I just wanted to add, I wish I knew you when I lived in NYC. You're a fine asset to this board, and I have great respect for your views. I'm sure we'd have had some terrific straight pool tussles, too.
 
The out ...

Well, I would shoot the 3, but draw back 6-8 inches for increased angle
on the 4 in the side. The increased angle makes it easier to control the direction the cue ball is going to take off the 4. (going with just a slight angle in the 4 increases the chances of getting either behind the 8 and hooking yourself, or to hit the 6 and spin off towards the 5, possibly not leaving you a shot on it). You do not want outside spin on the 4 ball shot.

I would mostly likely shoot the 4 with low right english pulling it slightly and where the cue ball would die quickly (a slide kill shot) after making contact, preferably on the inside of the 6/8. It is also possible that you might end up rather straight on the 5 into the lower left corner pocket, making it hard to get shape on the 6 (just a consideration). If you can shoot the 5 and get on the 6, it becomes elementary after that.

------------
The other suggestion of just getting on the 5 to shoot towards the corner with the 6/8 ALL DEPENDS on the angle on the 5. Wrong angle and you are screwed. Plus, I have seen many a player getting the shaft by going behind the 6/8 to break fairly softly. I would shoot it medium speed to bring my cue ball out from the cluster, hopefully sending the 6 to the other side, and back off again, so it would becoming into shape for a shot, and not going away from shape. (When in doubt, go the extra rail, a motto I play by).

I love these type of threads because it exposes different logic and details to players, and therefore, maybe helping them with the way they think compared to someone else, especially good for beginners to medium players. If the best players gain insights they may not have had before.

This is a prime example of what this forum is about, and kudos to SJM for showing good sense like he always does. He is one of the reasons I am here. Rep for SJM.
 
Last edited:
Why get in such a hurry to break the 6 out. Play the 3, 4, 5 and leave a nice cross rail bank on the 6. You could then either bank it in or play safe very easily by leaving the 8 between the c-ball and the 6. Let the other guy break the 6 out for you or you will have ball in hand.
 
TATE said:
I mis-read the post originally. I think most players would prefer to break the 6/8 with an angle off the 4 and just bump into the six or 8 softly then the 5 is automatic.

Chris
Click to expand...

Doing this, you will leave yourself hooked on the 5 waaaaaaaaaaaaay often. :eek:
 
I like drawing the rock on the three and bumping the 6-8 off the 4 in the side. I don't see a whole lot going wrong this way.

Edit: After reading Corey's second post I will defer to his greater expertise, but I will certainly be setting up this layout when I go to practice later on.
 
I'd shoot the 3 and draw back a few inches and play to the bottom of the 5 ball. If I get straight enough I'd try to break out the 6 much like Cory but if I didn't I'd try to leave the cue reasonably low so I could play the 6 in the lower left corner and send the cue up table erroring on the short side to leave my opponent tough in case I miss.
 
I'd normally go for the breakout using the 4, but I also think playing stop shots on the 3 and 4, and then rolling off of the 5 to get behind the 6 and 8 is a nice conservative option. Just a slight nudge on the 6 will open them up and put your opp. in a pretty good pickle.

Aaron
 
Aaron_S said:
I'd normally go for the breakout using the 4, but I also think playing stop shots on the 3 and 4, and then rolling off of the 5 to get behind the 6 and 8 is a nice conservative option. Just a slight nudge on the 6 will open them up and put your opp. in a pretty good pickle.

Aaron
Click to expand...

After our games last night I'm sure you can see why I wouldn't try the saftey behind the six...lol.
 
> From the layout you posted,here are my thoughts. If the angle on the 3 allowed me to do so,I would draw back off the 3 about a foot,trying to leave the angle you would have on the 4 if the 3 wasn't there. From there,I'd cut the 4 in the side,with high,right spin,coming 2 rails out of the corner and hopefully flush into the 6,moving it into the open without disturbing the layout too much,and giving myself an angle on the 5 to get to the 6. Here is the best example I can give on the WEI table.

START(
%D[3I3%EE4K3%FH9E6%Gi2N1%HJ1D5%Ie5I6%Pa2P1%UI0E4%VE7C4%W[6I8
%Xa0P4%YZ9C0%Z[0I1%[C8G6%\Z9I3%]E4D2%^C2G0%eC4`8
)END

Now,if the 4 was closer to the pocket,or I didn't think I could get to the end rail first to break the cluster from the bottom,I'd pocket the 4 and float towards the cluster,then bank the 5 out of there and use the cue ball to break out the 6 and stick behind it. The possibility of trying to break the cluster from the top,and sticking to the 8 while moving the 6 to the end rail without a shot on the 5 would concern me. There is also the possibility of coming off the 4 and going into the 8 rail-first and thinly,with enough speed to clear the 6 and still leave yourself a shot on the 5,but that is also fraught with peril because if you are left with a thin cut on the 5,you might have to go up table and back,with 2 very large obstacles in the 7 and 9. Tommy D.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top