a glue observation

desi2960

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
when gluing 2 pieces of wood together i'm thinking the correct glue might be a wood glue.

i use tightbond ultra on my wood to wood diagonal splices and on my cored cues. wood to any other material or other applications i use 2 part epoxy.

if you would like to see how strong the glue you are using, google and read " how strong is your glue ". its a great piece comparing all types of glues.

chuck starkey
 
I thought I remembered titebond being stronger than epoxy on wood. I googled and found the article. I wish they would have thrown a study on how it holds up over time. I'd like to know.
 
JBCustomCues said:
I dont know that I would beleave that tight bond would ever be as strong as west system
Click to expand...

It may not be but, IIUC, it doesn't matter because the bond is stronger
than the wood - that is, when stressed, the wood fibers will pull apart
before the glue bond breaks - or so they tell you in woodworking circles.

That may well be true gluing woods like Maple and Oak, etc.
But, dealing with oily, resinous Tropical Hardwoods like Ebony and
Rosewoods, I would only use two adhesives - epoxy and, more epoxy.

Dale
 
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pdcue said:
It may not be but, IIUC, it doesn't matter because the bond is stronger
than the wood - that is, when stessed, the wood fibers will pull apart
before the glue bond breaks - or so they tell you in woodworking circles.

That may well be true gluing woods like Maple and Oak, etc.
But, dealing with oily, resinous Tropical Hardwoods like Ebony and
Rosewoods, I would only use two adhesives - epoxy and, more epoxy.

Dale
Click to expand...

Agreed Dale, there are more considerations than just the materials used. You're pointing out some properties of the materials like the presence of oils, and I think there are others also like, the adhesive's tendancy to form a glue line, and it's consistancy. For example, it's hard to use a very thin adhesive for coring.
Mr H
 
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I concur with this 100% and this has been my belief since I have worked with titebond. I just use Titebond I and it has never failed on me. The trick is to provide plenty of squeeze out and good clamping pressure.

I am going to take this opportunity to show off a 'cutting board' I made for my mother for Mother's Day. It is a variation off of Marc Spagnuolo's version..... If it's good enough for my mom, it's good enough for my cues....

The woods I used in this is purpleheart, walnut, and maple. To me, the glue bond may not be as strong as epoxy, but it is strong enough, especially when you have a large glue surface. I probably would never use Titebond I on rings, but I use it on veneers, points, and buttsleeves.

I would use it for coring if and when I ever decide to do it......

pdcue said:
It may not be but, IIUC, it doesn't matter because the bond is stronger
than the wood - that is, when stessed, the wood fibers will pull apart
before the glue bond breaks - or so they tell you in woodworking circles.

That may well be true gluing woods like Maple and Oak, etc.
But, dealing with oily, resinous Tropical Hardwoods like Ebony and
Rosewoods, I would only use two adhesives - epoxy and, more epoxy.

Dale
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CamposCues said:
I thought I remembered titebond being stronger than epoxy on wood. I googled and found the article. I wish they would have thrown a study on how it holds up over time. I'd like to know.
Click to expand...

Could you post a link?
Thanks.
Mr H
 
fine woodworking magazine

i agree if you look at a tightbond website they are going to say that their product is the best.
if you locate a 2007 issue of fine woodworking magazine, you can find a independent glue test they did and decided that pva and pva type 1 was the strongest glue for wood.
it is not an answer to all of our gluing needs, but it works best for me on most wood to wood applications.
 
desi2960 said:
when gluing 2 pieces of wood together i'm thinking the correct glue might be a wood glue.

i use tightbond ultra on my wood to wood diagonal splices and on my cored cues. wood to any other material or other applications i use 2 part epoxy.

if you would like to see how strong the glue you are using, google and read " how strong is your glue ". its a great piece comparing all types of glues.

chuck starkey
Click to expand...



I agree with you Chuck, makes sense to me buddy!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
Sung, does your Mom use your cutting board to make the Kochu for the Kimchee or is Sweaty Kochu your nickname?
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Hey Dude, I eat Kimchee every day there is nothing better for your soul, :) Hell, even my user name Manwon means is a Korean word.

Manwon = 10,000 Won which is the largest denomination of paper money used in South Korea;)

I have been married to a Korean for 24 years this year, Dam time flys!!:eek::)
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Sung, does your Mom use your cutting board to make the Kochu for the Kimchee or is Sweaty Kochu your nickname?
Click to expand...

Yes she does. I gave it to her only about two weeks ago, and since then she has made a batch of Kimchi. A kochu is a korean pepper that is kind of like a serrano pepper, but thinner skin, and a bit longer. I love hot peppers, and anything hot, (like habñaeros and jalepeños) and I had 'South Korean' under my name for a while. People kept thinking I was from South Korea, so I wanted to change it, and didn't want to put my name, so I put 'Sweaty Kochu'. I thought it would be funny.

What Hidy is referring to is this:

In Korea, to have a boy is a big deal. Traditionally, Korean People lived in huts and some homes had a 'gateway entrance to their home'. People in the Korean villages were very close and always interested and up-to-date with other families, the current events happening in their lives; especially in the birth of children. Traditionally, when a family gave birth to a child, they would hang a symbol of gender on the gate. Of course, if it was a boy, they would hang a 'Kochu' on the door as a symbol of manhood. If it was a girl, there would be nothing hung at all.



Hidy Ho said:
u know that Kochu can be a slang word for ... :eek:
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No, I never meant it that way....... 'Shame on you!'...... :nono:
 
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Today I was lookinga at sme specs on different types of Poly Glues and in ithe tests was tightbond2.The tightbond2 scored the highest number in a specific test,but was at 3700 versus 3500 for the poly glues. The wood itself was 3200. So all the glues tested were stronger than the wood itself.The reason for the higher number on the TB2 was it took out more wood in that particular test.
However, when an endgrain test was done,the TB2 did not do very well as the grain drew awa from the joint face the glue,leaving a dry joint efectively.The poly glues, in particular the slower curing, had a substanstial pennetration into the endgrain. But due to the expansion nature of the glues,did not leave a dry joint.
The also mentioned that some epoxies left a dry joint,while other epoxies with fillers did not.I am not sure of wher it was that I saw it as I was ust searching at the time for thinners of poly glues and stumbled across the artical. I wish I had saved it now after seeing this topic.
 
desi2960 said:
when gluing 2 pieces of wood together i'm thinking the correct glue might be a wood glue.

i use tightbond ultra on my wood to wood diagonal splices and on my cored cues. wood to any other material or other applications i use 2 part epoxy.

if you would like to see how strong the glue you are using, google and read " how strong is your glue ". its a great piece comparing all types of glues.

chuck starkey
Click to expand...

The problem is, what happens over time. Tests done a few days after gluing something up does not really tell you anything about what the future will bring. I can show you everything from furniture to yes cues that all fall apart glued with wood glue. We all have house cues with the points sticking out and maybe even come completely fall apart at the splices. Epoxy is used to put together boats to ultua-lites that people trust their lives to. Wood glue is just to limited and not at all trust worthy. More over, why use something when their is something else proven to be better? It doesn't really make sense other then convenience.
 
SK Custom Cues said:
Yes she does. I gave it to her only about two weeks ago, and since then she has made a batch of Kimchi. A kochu is a korean pepper that is kind of like a serrano pepper, but thinner skin, and a bit longer. I love hot peppers, and anything hot, (like habñaeros and jalepeños) and I had 'South Korean' under my name for a while. People kept thinking I was from South Korea, so I wanted to change it, and didn't want to put my name, so I put 'Sweaty Kochu'. I thought it would be funny.

What Hidy is referring to is this:

In Korea, to have a boy is a big deal. Traditionally, Korean People lived in huts and some homes had a 'gateway entrance to their home'. People in the Korean villages were very close and always interested and up-to-date with other families, the current events happening in their lives; especially in the birth of children. Traditionally, when a family gave birth to a child, they would hang a symbol of gender on the gate. Of course, if it was a boy, they would hang a 'Kochu' on the door as a symbol of manhood. If it was a girl, there would be nothing hung at all.





No, I never meant it that way....... 'Shame on you!'...... :nono:
Click to expand...


There is nothing as good as home made kimchi, I have a friend who owns a resteraunt and they make it for their family only its not on the menu, the resteraunt is over 40 years old. WOW its so good. I havent been there in a few years I'm actually going there in about a week or two.

ok back to glue sniffing with the cue makers., I also want to thank all you cue makers for openly sharing some or your information-i like to learn, I cant change a tip so dont worry about me becomming a cue maker.

kindest regards

eric
 
pdcue said:
It may not be but, IIUC, it doesn't matter because the bond is stronger
than the wood - that is, when stressed, the wood fibers will pull apart
before the glue bond breaks - or so they tell you in woodworking circles.

That may well be true gluing woods like Maple and Oak, etc.
But, dealing with oily, resinous Tropical Hardwoods like Ebony and
Rosewoods, I would only use two adhesives - epoxy and, more epoxy.

Dale
Click to expand...

We all have done that, glued something and tore it apart later to see the wood fibers tearing out. Then we say, "Stronger then the wood it'self". Not true though because what has happened is the glue has so little penetration it just glues the surface fibers and that is about it. The joint is no stronger then the fine weak surface fibers of the wood that are involved. Where as an epoxied bond that has been properly done with a "Wet out" and then then bonded will have a complete matrix into the wood truly making a bond stronger then the wood it's self. The difference it the epoxy bond incorporates more of the wood in the bond not just the thin surface fibers that tear out over time. I am not so sure this is very debatable. People attach the transoms of boats with glue and some screws with the majority of the trust in the glue. The screws actually hold very little by comparison.
 
where do i find the 'proven to be better'

macguy, i respect your opinion, but can you tell me where do i find the information you describe as ' proven to be better '. is this an actual test or an opinion?
if i can find something that is proven to be better then i want to start using that product, but all the test i have found show wood glue to be better.
as far as the points getting lose after years. i have many old cues that are in that condition, BUT i think the wood glues of to day are far superior of those used at the turn of the century.
and if anyone is worried, if you have one of my cues and in 100 years from now the wood comes apart, i will refund your money.




chuck
 
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