A newbe cue question........
- Thread starter dc8ray
- Start date
I'm just wondering what is the difference is between your usual cue and a break cue. I can see maybe it being a little heavier and a harder tip, but is there any really any reason for not using your usual cue for a break?
Ray in Dallas
You would appear to be an amatuer without a break cue like the pros use.
On the otherhand, you may get more matches - shading your speed.
Seriously, your playing cue's tip will not mushroom as quickly - unless you soft break.
A break cue is designed specificly for breaking the rack. They have stiffer tapers on the shaft. Thicker shafts and usually a thicker butt. The tips are usually hard leather or a phenolic resin. You really can't play regular billiards with a phenolic tip. Weight is subjective. Some people like a heavy break cue some like a light cue. Heavy cues track straighter and have a real solid feel. Lighter cues accelerate easier and don't track as well. Just remember E=1/2MVsuared (M=mass or weight,E=energy,V=velocity).
The big reason for a break cue is saving the tip of your playing cue. Breaking pounds your tip. It can mushroom it and work harden it. You need to groom the tip more often. And this will wear it out faster. It is also a little easier to get a powerful break with a break cue. You have to work harder with the player to get the same result as a player.
All in all with the price of a cheaper break cue (J&J, players,elite ect) it is well worth having a break cue in your case. I have 2. An original Gulyassy Sledge Hammer and a cheap player that I converted into a breaker. BTW I use the cheap playernow because I get better control with it. I'm eventually going to put a hard leather on the Sledge Hammer and give that a whirl.
Mark Shuman
The big reason for a break cue is saving the tip of your playing cue. Breaking pounds your tip. It can mushroom it and work harden it. You need to groom the tip more often. And this will wear it out faster. It is also a little easier to get a powerful break with a break cue. You have to work harder with the player to get the same result as a player.
All in all with the price of a cheaper break cue (J&J, players,elite ect) it is well worth having a break cue in your case. I have 2. An original Gulyassy Sledge Hammer and a cheap player that I converted into a breaker. BTW I use the cheap playernow because I get better control with it. I'm eventually going to put a hard leather on the Sledge Hammer and give that a whirl.
Mark Shuman
LOL i love this i break with my shooting cue i also press my tips to prevent mushrooming . not all break cue are made to break . Some break cues sometimes have fatter shaft and super hard tip . But there are was you can make a shooting cue into a great break cue with some changes that can cost you less money then you think..
Hope this can help ..
Ps i have a break/jump cue it took my some time to fine it but it's the way i like and i get a great spread , And a little butt heavy ..
Then there's the folks who purchase a jump/break cue. They like the idea of having the jump option available, so why not break with it too? I actually have 3 jump/break cues, a Stinger and two lesser-priced Action cues. One of the Action cues is in my wife's case, the other Action cue is in my "bar" case, and the Stinger is in my main case. Believe it or not, although the price difference is somewhat substantial, the $47 Action jump/break performs about as well as the higher-priced Stinger.
Maniac
Maniac
Lots of good answers here. Back in the day, I always broke with my player with a Triumph tip. As I remember, it was fine, except I was going through tips quick always having to grind it back to nickel shape!
The 1x2 case with a nice player in it is still a good way to play for a long time!
The 1x2 case with a nice player in it is still a good way to play for a long time!
In theory, being a hard material compared to leather, it will deliver more of the energy in the stroke at impact.
If you hit off center of the CB, you will need some amount of chalk to prevent misscue.
Yeah, but did the woods come from legally-cut desert dead tree? :grin:
My breaker is a cross-laminated bubinga butt. Less than 18 oz and 13 MM tip.
Player is a bit heavier and definitely Filipino-taper 12MM tip.
Another reason for having a break cue is that my playing cues have ivory ferrules. I have broke with my playing cues, but its just not worth the risk of cracking my ferrules when I can use a $60 j&j that is crooked as hell, but smashes the rack. I would just assume play one-pocket anyway, so my jump/break rarely even gets taken out of my case, lol.
Joe
Joe
Phenolics don't need any mainainance. In essance they are a hard plastic tip. Same as the cue ball. Chalk is a must but is difficult to get to stick to the cue tip.
My player conversion only cost about 60$. I bought a cheapo McDermott Nitro cue. I had a carbon fiber pad put under the tip. And a super hard Stratos layered tip installed. Hits fairly well. Very good control. Heck sometimes I play with it just because I can. It is super hard hitting though. It is easy to over hit a soft touch shot.
Anyway you don't need to spend a pile of money for a break cue. If you have a cheap straight player laying around. Do what I did and have at it. Good luck in your search.
Mark Shuman
My player conversion only cost about 60$. I bought a cheapo McDermott Nitro cue. I had a carbon fiber pad put under the tip. And a super hard Stratos layered tip installed. Hits fairly well. Very good control. Heck sometimes I play with it just because I can. It is super hard hitting though. It is easy to over hit a soft touch shot.
Anyway you don't need to spend a pile of money for a break cue. If you have a cheap straight player laying around. Do what I did and have at it. Good luck in your search.
Mark Shuman
Thanks for the info, Mark. Why the carbon pad under the tip? I assume the Stratos tip is a hard leather tip.
I can see not spending a lot of money on a breaker.
Thanks again,
Ray
A woven carbon sheet/pad under the tip will protect the ferrule from cracking, when the impact squeezes the tip and causes it to flow outward - mushrooming. The pad is very strong and will not mushroom outward - taking the ferrule with it - thus protecting/preserving the ferrule.
You can save money by just using a house cue off of the rack for breaking. It being one piece, will deliver a bit more of the force.
You don't need to buy a larger case to also house the break cue ...if that's the case.
LOL yeah but i'm pissed off at all other American cuemakers for using it, too. Its a simple yes or no......LOL
Another question: Been surfing the internet for break cues and just wondering why most of the break/jump cues break down into 3 parts?
Ray
They break down in the middle for storage. The butt breaks into 2 pieces to make the jump cue. The lighter the cue, the easier it is to jump with. You can still jump with the full cue though.
Joe
phenolic vs leather
Control is more difficult with phenolic & there are some really hard leather tips available.
I'm just wondering what is the difference is between your usual cue and a break cue. I can see maybe it being a little heavier and a harder tip, but is there any really any reason for not using your usual cue for a break?
Ray in Dallas
Control is more difficult with phenolic & there are some really hard leather tips available.
Jump/break cues come in 3 pieces to allow you to jump. You unscrew the very end of the cue to make a shorter jump cue. Screw the end back on for breaking. A dual purpose cue. I don't jump so that is why I prefer a straight break cue.
The other fellow before me got it straight. The pad is to protect the ferrule. And the Stratos tip I had put on is 1 step away from a rock
. It is a very hard layered tip.
I have used house cues as another fellow recommended. The problem is finding a decent house cue to use. So often the cues have slip on tips or hard worn tips that don't accept chalk or are warped and so on. You are at the mercy of the hall. They may take care of the house cues but most do not. With your own break cue you always have a good breaker. Don't forget the break is the single most important shot you'll make in the game. It is hard to run racks with a poor break (not that I run racks:grin.
Again best of luck in your search.
Mark Shuman
The other fellow before me got it straight. The pad is to protect the ferrule. And the Stratos tip I had put on is 1 step away from a rock
. It is a very hard layered tip.I have used house cues as another fellow recommended. The problem is finding a decent house cue to use. So often the cues have slip on tips or hard worn tips that don't accept chalk or are warped and so on. You are at the mercy of the hall. They may take care of the house cues but most do not. With your own break cue you always have a good breaker. Don't forget the break is the single most important shot you'll make in the game. It is hard to run racks with a poor break (not that I run racks:grin
.Again best of luck in your search.
Mark Shuman