A while back....

Did the above post answer your question about how others feel about my work...or do you/would you like more?

Glen
Better Late than Never:
I'm the lucky guy that owns the table at the beginning of this thread. I'm lucky because I was able to convince Glen to come to my home to work on the table. When all was said and done the table was beautiful and played way beyond my abiity. I returned home at the beginning of November to find that the seams had developed a problem during my long absence. I contacted Glen and he voluntered to return and fix them right after Christmas. What a great Christmas present. This is a man who takes pride in his work and stands by it.
I asked him about doing sheet rock, but he said he only works on horizontal surfaces.
 
[...]
I asked him about doing sheet rock, but he said he only works on horizontal surfaces.

Glen doing sheetrock? I pity the poor soul that punches the wall in frustration at a missed shot; 700lb slabs of 1-inch slate mounted vertically would cause a lot of broken hands...

:D

-Sean
 
I would personally like to thank Glen for posting threads like this. I try to do the work on my own table because I can't really afford to pay someone else to do it and I find these threads amazingly educational, not to mention entertaining. Guess I just like watching someone cut something apart and make it better than it was.
 
Not knocking anyone elses work out there?

That's what you do in most all of your threads. You puff your chest, how you are the industry first and then put in lines like
"sent off to someone else that thinks they know what they're doing to rebuild the rails"

I for the life of me don't understand why you constantly put up threads where you are the authority, you are the person to teach everyone else in the world, other people don't know what they are doing, you are the only one to repair others work.

Fortunately, I am not the only one who share this feeling. From PM's I've received people just say that is Glen, that's how he acts. And my only reply is maybe "HE" can try to not act like that and be humble.

If you don't like it why the hell are you here.. in the middle of the thread? Just slip away instead of having to make your presence known... chest puffer that you are.

Glen does beautiful work, he's proud of that and happy about it. I'm glad he posts it. It's beautiful to see an artisan at work.
 
Hi,

I'm the person responsible for selling the table to Chris Cross. He got a great price on this antique table. We have a private carom club that puts on the Olhausen USBA Tournament each year.

I don't take Glen's statements regarding the previous installer as being critical at all. We members do the best job with our equipment and Glen is always welcome to stop by when he's coming through Michigan. We'll accept any tips he has for our equipment.

I also consider Chris Cross a friend and there is no problem on our end.

What's the problem?
 
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A while back

I like your posts and I don't care if you are an egomaniac , if you are great at something, scream it at the world .
If you wait on someone else , you will probably be in a box.
I just wish you would come through Ohio, I don't want anyone else.
 
Glen, being a table owner, I love these threads. Keep em coming! Pictures, progress and all...I look foward to the next one.
Keep up the good work.
 
I like your posts and I don't care if you are an egomaniac , if you are great at something, scream it at the world .
If you wait on someone else , you will probably be in a box.
I just wish you would come through Ohio, I don't want anyone else.

You better call him. I think he's headed to Cincinnati some time soon.
 
Glen

I have been around the pool world for many years.
I owned my frist room in 1969
Recovered my first table in 1964
Quit counting the tables I recovered when I got over 600.
I lived in Alaska for 58 years.

I have seen a LOT of mechanics.

I will honestly say that Glen knows more and does more thn any other mechanic I have ever seen.

He can completetly repair tables in yiour driveway.

he is amazing - and I know more than 90% of the mechanics out there and he makes me look like an amateur.

If you have any questions about his work - call me.

mark Griffin,
markg@playcsipool.com
702-719-7665
 
Who's the equivalent of you over in Europe? Unless your service area is really the entire world.

Having lived in Germany and Italy for 7 years while in the Army, and playing pool all over in Europe...and GC's being GC's, there is no difference between a GC in the USA vs in Europe...or any other country for that matter. I've received 100's of emails requesting information on how to correctly work on pool tables, even from Asia. I've turned down job offers from other counties to move there and teach their table mechanics how to do better work. My most recent job offer came a table manufacture located in Columbia, South America in July of this year. I can also assure you that the Olhausen pocket rattle is alive and well in other countries as well as right here in the USA because of having conversations with Jasmin, as her family owns a pool room in Austria with Olhausen tables, of which they'd like to replace with Diamond tables.

So, you tell me...who is the best table mechanic in Europe? Have him post some pictures of his work here on AZ and I'll take a look at them. If his work is top notch...I'll say it is, if not...then I'll offer some advice;)

Glen
 
Hi,

I'm the person responsible for selling the table to Chris Cross. He got a great price on this antique table. We have a private carom club that puts on the Olhausen USBA Tournament each year.

I don't take Glen's statements regarding the previous installer as being critical at all. We members do the best job with our equipment and Glen is always welcome to stop by when he's coming through Michigan. We'll accept any tips he has for our equipment.

I also consider Chris Cross a friend and there is no problem on our end.

What's the problem?

Finally...a chance to respond. First of all, the table is a great looking table for it's age:grin: and if I ever get a chance to get up to your area I'd be glad to spend some time with all of you up there.

Now, the problem with an antique billiards table unlike any other kind of antique pocket pool table is how the rails are bolted to the slate vs the slate. On an Antique T-rail table the slate is the exact same size as the inside dimensions of the rails minus the width of the cushions to the...meaning the playing surface is 56x112 plus the width of the cushions being 2" each, that makes the slate 60x116. When you bolt the rails on the slate you leave all the slate bolts loose once you've installed them all, then you go to the corners of the rails and install the 4 rail bolts that bolt the end rails to the side rails and mount them tight, making sure your corners are flush on the top to each other. After doing that, then you tighten the end rail bolts first, then the side rail bolts until you have the rails bolted down tight and in place.

Problem, if the slates have a slight gap in them at the seams, and is filled with wax to smooth the seam, that's all fine and dandy to make the seam flat but that slight gap is also showing up in the overall length of the slates making them just slightly longer than the 116" overall length of the slate to say 116 1/16" of an inch. The side rails are 116" exactly in length, so when the rails are all bolted together tightly they're trying to compress the slates end to end down to the 116" length of the rails. In other words, the rails are trying to pull the slates closer together at the seams to compress that extra 1/16" inch back into the length of the rails and they would if they could....but the wax is in the way of doing so because it's helping to keep the slates gapped. Now, add in some heat along with the pressure of the slates being pulled together with the rails and you have a compression factor that when the wax softens up and gives under that pressure...it gets squeezed up out of the seam....which in turn causes a ridge above the level of the slate seams...or a speed bump, depending on how you want to look at it. You can take a deep-well socket, two of them actually on place a board on top of them and roll the wax back down flat and make it go away, but that only lasts for a little while because all that's being done is forcing the wax back into the seams, which once again will rise back up under the pressure of the slates being pulled together end to end by the rails.

It had been well over 20 years since I last worked on a 3C Antique billiards table when I worked on Chris's and the slates were very level, they were set up very well, so there was no need in breaking them down at the time when I rebuilt his rails and recovered the table, but having never used wax on the seams before, ( I use super-glue and bondo) I didn't think to much about the results of the wax in the Arizona heat moving like it's doing, so...I owe Chris a return trip to break down his table to the frame, and start from there and work my way back up again in order to get his table to stop changing and stay that way:o I should have caught that at the time, but it had just been so long since I'd worked on any Antique Brunswick's I overlooked it, normaly I avoid working on any Antique tables because they're just such a pain in the ass, but Chris was such a nice guy I couldn't refuse:o

Glen
 
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