Hi,
I'm the person responsible for selling the table to Chris Cross. He got a great price on this antique table. We have a private carom club that puts on the Olhausen USBA Tournament each year.
I don't take Glen's statements regarding the previous installer as being critical at all. We members do the best job with our equipment and Glen is always welcome to stop by when he's coming through Michigan. We'll accept any tips he has for our equipment.
I also consider Chris Cross a friend and there is no problem on our end.
What's the problem?
Finally...a chance to respond. First of all, the table is a great looking table for it's age:grin: and if I ever get a chance to get up to your area I'd be glad to spend some time with all of you up there.
Now, the problem with an antique billiards table unlike any other kind of antique pocket pool table is how the rails are bolted to the slate vs the slate. On an Antique T-rail table the slate is the exact same size as the inside dimensions of the rails minus the width of the cushions to the...meaning the playing surface is 56x112 plus the width of the cushions being 2" each, that makes the slate 60x116. When you bolt the rails on the slate you leave all the slate bolts loose once you've installed them all, then you go to the corners of the rails and install the 4 rail bolts that bolt the end rails to the side rails and mount them tight, making sure your corners are flush on the top to each other. After doing that, then you tighten the end rail bolts first, then the side rail bolts until you have the rails bolted down tight and in place.
Problem, if the slates have a slight gap in them at the seams, and is filled with wax to smooth the seam, that's all fine and dandy to make the seam flat but that slight gap is also showing up in the overall length of the slates making them just slightly longer than the 116" overall length of the slate to say 116 1/16" of an inch. The side rails are 116" exactly in length, so when the rails are all bolted together tightly they're trying to compress the slates end to end down to the 116" length of the rails. In other words, the rails are trying to pull the slates closer together at the seams to compress that extra 1/16" inch back into the length of the rails and they would if they could....but the wax is in the way of doing so because it's helping to keep the slates gapped. Now, add in some heat along with the pressure of the slates being pulled together with the rails and you have a compression factor that when the wax softens up and gives under that pressure...it gets squeezed up out of the seam....which in turn causes a ridge above the level of the slate seams...or a speed bump, depending on how you want to look at it. You can take a deep-well socket, two of them actually on place a board on top of them and roll the wax back down flat and make it go away, but that only lasts for a little while because all that's being done is forcing the wax back into the seams, which once again will rise back up under the pressure of the slates being pulled together end to end by the rails.
It had been well over 20 years since I last worked on a 3C Antique billiards table when I worked on Chris's and the slates were very level, they were set up very well, so there was no need in breaking them down at the time when I rebuilt his rails and recovered the table, but having never used wax on the seams before, ( I use super-glue and bondo) I didn't think to much about the results of the wax in the Arizona heat moving like it's doing, so...I owe Chris a return trip to break down his table to the frame, and start from there and work my way back up again in order to get his table to stop changing and stay that way

I should have caught that at the time, but it had just been so long since I'd worked on any Antique Brunswick's I overlooked it, normaly I avoid working on any Antique tables because they're just such a pain in the ass, but Chris was such a nice guy I couldn't refuse
Glen