A word about learning sidespin

Tin Man

Tin Man

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A word about sidespin. I've had this come up quite a bit with different students the last month so I felt a general public service announcement was in order.

There are different approaches but the one I support by far is FEEL. The two other approaches I've seen are: 1) People struggling with the idea of back hand English, and 2) People that give up on sidespin because they can't stomach the short term impact to their pocketing.

Listen, I know a few people use BHE, but they are in a very small minority. The problem I have is it doesn't solve the need for feel. On a sidespin shot the cue ball deflects off the tip, curves back towards the shot line en route, then throws the object ball upon contact. How much depends entirely on swing speed and table conditions. So while a system can get you in the right general area, there is no escaping that you will need to develop a feel to make it work.

As for giving up on sidespin, this is a huge blunder I've seen so many times this year I am shocked. How can you spend years and decades playing a beautiful game like pool and resign yourself to slugging balls around with center-ball hits, shrugging off the fact you'll only be live to run about 50% of the tables where a limited tool box will suffice, and seeing only incremental improvement for half a lifetime? Why?

Sidespin isn't that hard. When you get down on the shot your tip should be where you want to strike the cue ball and you should be on the shot line you feel that already accounts for deflection/swerve/throw. When you're down you can fine tune the tip and aim slightly. If it's more than a fine tune rise up, air stroke, and reset.
From there all you have to do to master sidespin is miss 1,000 shots. That's it. Take my thousand miss challenge. Shoot with extreme sidespin on a variety of shots until you miss 33 times, and do that every day for a month. Ta-da. You can now make balls with sidespin and there is a new dimension and future for your pool game.

Don't buy into the whole 'pros stick to one tip from center'. That is absurd. Every strong player spins the ball like crazy unless they are playing straight pool exactly and their cue ball isn't moving more than 6-18" per shot. And for the love of all that is holy don't try to control all of this analytically. It can't be controlled consciously, you need to delegate this to your subconscious and give it the thousand shots worth of data for your inner computer to figure it out. I've spent time at the table with a lot of great players and none of them are making manual adjustments at the table. They just picture the shot they want to execute and feel it on in. If you can't do that yet then start missing and you'll be there before you know it.
 
Tin Man said:
A word about sidespin. I've had this come up quite a bit with different students the last month so I felt a general public service announcement was in order.

There are different approaches but the one I support by far is FEEL. The two other approaches I've seen are: 1) People struggling with the idea of back hand English, and 2) People that give up on sidespin because they can't stomach the short term impact to their pocketing.

Listen, I know a few people use BHE, but they are in a very small minority. The problem I have is it doesn't solve the need for feel. On a sidespin shot the cue ball deflects off the tip, curves back towards the shot line en route, then throws the object ball upon contact. How much depends entirely on swing speed and table conditions. So while a system can get you in the right general area, there is no escaping that you will need to develop a feel to make it work.

As for giving up on sidespin, this is a huge blunder I've seen so many times this year I am shocked. How can you spend years and decades playing a beautiful game like pool and resign yourself to slugging balls around with center-ball hits, shrugging off the fact you'll only be live to run about 50% of the tables where a limited tool box will suffice, and seeing only incremental improvement for half a lifetime? Why?

Sidespin isn't that hard. When you get down on the shot your tip should be where you want to strike the cue ball and you should be on the shot line you feel that already accounts for deflection/swerve/throw. When you're down you can fine tune the tip and aim slightly. If it's more than a fine tune rise up, air stroke, and reset.
From there all you have to do to master sidespin is miss 1,000 shots. That's it. Take my thousand miss challenge. Shoot with extreme sidespin on a variety of shots until you miss 33 times, and do that every day for a month. Ta-da. You can now make balls with sidespin and there is a new dimension and future for your pool game.

Don't buy into the whole 'pros stick to one tip from center'. That is absurd. Every strong player spins the ball like crazy unless they are playing straight pool exactly and their cue ball isn't moving more than 6-18" per shot. And for the love of all that is holy don't try to control all of this analytically. It can't be controlled consciously, you need to delegate this to your subconscious and give it the thousand shots worth of data for your inner computer to figure it out. I've spent time at the table with a lot of great players and none of them are making manual adjustments at the table. They just picture the shot they want to execute and feel it on in. If you can't do that yet then start missing and you'll be there before you know it.
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I would add that you need to have solid fundamentals and able to deliver the cue tip straight 'before' going crazy with sidespin. Why? Because only then can you accurately see "where" your aim is off when you miss so your brain can accurately calibrate the necessary changes.

There is definitely a feel you have to develop for your cue. When using spin, the same English can require different aims due to different speeds applied. Every cue is different, so using the same cue for years and years will serve you well.
 
Tin Man said:
A word about sidespin. I've had this come up quite a bit with different students the last month so I felt a general public service announcement was in order.

There are different approaches but the one I support by far is FEEL. The two other approaches I've seen are: 1) People struggling with the idea of back hand English, and 2) People that give up on sidespin because they can't stomach the short term impact to their pocketing.

Listen, I know a few people use BHE, but they are in a very small minority. The problem I have is it doesn't solve the need for feel. On a sidespin shot the cue ball deflects off the tip, curves back towards the shot line en route, then throws the object ball upon contact. How much depends entirely on swing speed and table conditions. So while a system can get you in the right general area, there is no escaping that you will need to develop a feel to make it work.

As for giving up on sidespin, this is a huge blunder I've seen so many times this year I am shocked. How can you spend years and decades playing a beautiful game like pool and resign yourself to slugging balls around with center-ball hits, shrugging off the fact you'll only be live to run about 50% of the tables where a limited tool box will suffice, and seeing only incremental improvement for half a lifetime? Why?

Sidespin isn't that hard. When you get down on the shot your tip should be where you want to strike the cue ball and you should be on the shot line you feel that already accounts for deflection/swerve/throw. When you're down you can fine tune the tip and aim slightly. If it's more than a fine tune rise up, air stroke, and reset.
From there all you have to do to master sidespin is miss 1,000 shots. That's it. Take my thousand miss challenge. Shoot with extreme sidespin on a variety of shots until you miss 33 times, and do that every day for a month. Ta-da. You can now make balls with sidespin and there is a new dimension and future for your pool game.

Don't buy into the whole 'pros stick to one tip from center'. That is absurd. Every strong player spins the ball like crazy unless they are playing straight pool exactly and their cue ball isn't moving more than 6-18" per shot. And for the love of all that is holy don't try to control all of this analytically. It can't be controlled consciously, you need to delegate this to your subconscious and give it the thousand shots worth of data for your inner computer to figure it out. I've spent time at the table with a lot of great players and none of them are making manual adjustments at the table. They just picture the shot they want to execute and feel it on in. If you can't do that yet then start missing and you'll be there before you know it.
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Demetrius,

I still think a system like the System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS), which accounts for squirt, swerve, and throw, is useful. SAWS allows somebody to be effective using sidespin immediately over a wide range of shot types, distances, and speeds. The system and the required "pre-calibration" procedure also help teach "intuition" and "feel" over time, assuming the player pays attention to and learns from the SAWS lines of aim. Eventually, the intuition and feel will be good enough to use the system less or not all.

Regards,
Dave
 
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Three points::

a) there are two reasons to use sidespin and these reasons are interrelated. One reason is to hit the OB at one spot but have it roll on a different (than geometrically derived) line. The other reason to to alter the characteristics of how the CB (and OB) respond to hitting rails.

b) I agree with HawaiianEye:: don't use it if you don't need it--AND--don't use more of it than you need.

c) when you add side-spin you add energy to the CB (at the same cue-stick impact velocity) and therefore the CB will roll farther than if it did not have any sidespin

As to part (a): if you are using side-spin to alter the CB's path off a rail, you need to compensate by where you hit the OB for the sidespin or you will miss it. Similarly, if you are using side-spin to alter the geometry of the OB rolling path, the CB's path after impact much be reconsidered if that path will take CB off a rail.
 
A great post Demitrius and Matt, I kinda felt the same and have committed to the general rule that countless misses have to happen before my brain will be able calibrate properly. I'm probably in the camp of using too much side spin when not really needed, but I'm also in the camp that the more I use it, the more proficient I will be at using it, so therefore in the long run I'll be ahead. Basically take two steps back to take three steps forward. Matt brought up a great point about using the same cue. Every now and then the nostalgia kicks in and I try to use my old McDermott from back in the 80's and boy what a mistake it is trying to recalibrate the brain to a different cue.
 
Here's 2 cents on using the same cue for a period of time to learn side spin. If you can't pick up any decent cue and dial in 80% of your spin ability that you have with your long term cue after 15mins, then you're calibrating wrong.

Two nights ago, I hit a cue completely unknown to me. That cue had a 12.5mm soft tipped shaft and hits very stiff. My playing cue of 15+ yrs has a whippy predator Z2 and a rock hard tip. Within a dozen shots I was dialed in, and hitting successfuly most of what you'd find in game play. My point is. Once you understand the physics of spin, it really shouldn't be difficult to calibrate to nearly any cue. The key is fundamentals...

Once you remove the randomness that comes with haphazard stance, stoke, and the ridiculousness notion of "back hand spin", then it's really easy to adjust. Once you learn how to ride a bike well, you can ride anything.
 
I've never understood the fear of sidespin. I mean, sure, when you start out, you should get proficient with centerball, follow and draw, so you understand what they do and to not add more variables to fine tune at this point. Once you're somewhat proficient there's nothing wrong with sidespin. You don't have to use it on every shot, but it sure does help on many different shots. Some of the systems just make me scratch my head. I'm sure they work, but why spend time analyzing it if you can do it automagically from experience?

It's kind of like when you were young and you had to think about the act of love making. You had read about it, or heard the "pointers" from friends. Once you've participated a few times, you just get into the moment instead of rehearsing the mechanics in your head and cracking open the biology textbook. I'm not trying to sound gross or anything, but I equate playing pool as closer to lovemaking than studying for a physics exam.

I'm in no way doubting the physicists, but who wants to crack open a lengthy textbook when the game of pool is right there with the candles already lit? ;)
 
boogieman said:
I've never understood the fear of sidespin. I mean, sure, when you start out, you should get proficient with centerball, follow and draw, so you understand what they do and to not add more variables to fine tune at this point. Once you're somewhat proficient there's nothing wrong with sidespin. You don't have to use it on every shot, but it sure does help on many different shots. Some of the systems just make me scratch my head. I'm sure they work, but why spend time analyzing it if you can do it automagically from experience?

It's kind of like when you were young and you had to think about the act of love making. You had read about it, or heard the "pointers" from friends. Once you've participated a few times, you just get into the moment instead of rehearsing the mechanics in your head and cracking open the biology textbook. I'm not trying to sound gross or anything, but I equate playing pool as closer to lovemaking than studying for a physics exam.

I'm in no way doubting the physicists, but who wants to crack open a lengthy textbook when the game of pool is right there with the candles already lit? ;)
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This reply has a strong Anchorman/Sex Panther vibe😉

Jk👊

Interesting analogy🧠🤔
 
Lawnboy77 said:
Matt brought up a great point about using the same cue. Every now and then the nostalgia kicks in and I try to use my old McDermott from back in the 80's and boy what a mistake it is trying to recalibrate the brain to a different cue.
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I enjoy using different cues, it's part of the fun for me. I have the same McDermott I bought with money from my first job in like 95 or 96. I play with it mostly, but a few times a month, I'll use my wife's LD Diviney cue, and also use several different house cues with differing weights and hardness of tips. I find I can work on my mechanics better when my perceptions get scrambled a bit. It adds novelty and keeps me from getting bored. Now, I can't tell you how each cue hits, but after a game or two I can shoot with them as if they are an old friend. I also do this with my leather tipped break cue. I've found that I enjoy the hardest damn tips that will hold chalk well because it gives you instant feedback. The harder the tip, the quicker I can adapt to a particular cue.

I actually enjoy taking a junk bar cue and getting wired into it within a few shots and then proceed to shoot the lights out with it. There is much to be said for consistency in tools, but there is also a different game going on when you force yourself to adapt quickly. I wish I could push a randomizer button and have different cloth on my table, different rails/pockets/table sizes instantly. It would help you train the ability to adapt to differing tables quite well.
 
dr_dave said:
Demetrius,

I still think a system like the System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS), which accounts for squirt, swerve, and throw, is useful. SAWS allows somebody to be effective using sidespin immediately over a wide range of shot types, distances, and speeds. The system and the required "pre-calibration" procedure also help teach "intuition" and "feel" over time, assuming the player pays attention to and learns from the SAWS lines of aim. Eventually, the intuition and feel will be good enough to use the system less or not all.

Regards,
Dave
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Dave,

Thank you for the explanation. To be fair I learned by feel and haven't had the experience of using SAWS to guide me through the learning process. I can see how that could be a big aide.

When I hear people talk about back hand English they are usually saying things like "This isn't working for me". But they just started it and wonder why they are still missing after 10 shots. Or I hear people that gave up decades ago and don't hit off center.

I don't think I have a gripe with any type of system so long as people understand 1) the ultimate goal is to develop your feel to the point it comes naturally and 2) this will take time and effort. As long as they have the right destination and know it will take some travel I'm fine with it.
 
To those talking about minimizing spin, I don't think of it that way at all. I think about minimizing the difficulty of the game. There are MANY things that make shooting pool more difficult. Spin is one. Cue speed is another. Distance from the object ball. Cut angle or difficulty of the shot. Elevation. Awkward bridges. Etc.

I use spin constantly in 9 ball and 10 ball, but it is to reduce more difficulty of other things. So I'd rather be able to use a rolling ball with sidespin to send my cue ball up table versus a draw shot. Is the spin necessary? No. But is it making things more difficult? Not for me. I can more accurately control my cue ball speed and direction with a soft rolling ball and sidespin than by drawing the ball around.

This is one of many examples. So if the question is "Should I use spin for no reason" then of course not. It's not like I'm facing a long straight 9 ball on the hill and I decide to shoot a spinning stop shot (although now that I've said that it would be a pretty epic thing to do). But if the question is "What is the easiest way to overcome the challenges on the pool table" then in my opinion getting thinner on balls and using rolling balls, rails, and cut angle to move the cue ball around is far superior to getting full angles and shooting them with below center hits at firm swing speeds. Maybe not for the top pros who have powerful strokes, world class tip accuracy, AND play on new slick felt where it is easy to maintain a sliding cue ball from cross table. But if you're playing on a tight pocketed table with worn poolroom cloth and you're not exactly Jeff DeLuna than it might make sense to learn to finesse the ball around the table.
 
Tin Man said:
Dave,

Thank you for the explanation. To be fair I learned by feel and haven't had the experience of using SAWS to guide me through the learning process. I can see how that could be a big aide.

When I hear people talk about back hand English they are usually saying things like "This isn't working for me". But they just started it and wonder why they are still missing after 10 shots. Or I hear people that gave up decades ago and don't hit off center.

I don't think I have a gripe with any type of system so long as people understand 1) the ultimate goal is to develop your feel to the point it comes naturally and 2) this will take time and effort. As long as they have the right destination and know it will take some travel I'm fine with it.
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Hey Demi, you know I respect you and I don't remember if I was the first person that showed you BHE or not but I have to disagree with you on a couple of points. First, While feel plays a role in everything related to pool to an extent, BHE works for the vast majority of shots and speeds without alternate adjustments. Sure, slower shots where swerve has a chance to take effect are the number one shot that does require feel and a lot of adjustment, most shots, even long shots work just fine without any additional adjustment.

I'm pretty sure I don't have to remind you who taught ME BHE.

Like you've said, the people who complain about it not working are typically people, like yourself, who had already learned to compensate directly in their aim via feel and those who tried it, but didn't really work at it.

There are a couple of things about it that make it completely different. Firstly, the stance needs to be changed so that your arm doesn't run into your body from shifting the arm. Secondly, you have to learn to trust the new shot line and not try to steer the cue during the stroke.

I'll be the first to agree it's not going to be for everybody, but for those who haven't gotten too deep into learning the game, it can be a great method of getting a good starting point for trusting to learn side spin.

Also, I agree with you, learning to use and get comfortable with spin shots while still hitting the balls how you are expecting is an essential part of getting better at the game. Especially when you get into advanced one pocket and banking with widening and shortening the angles.

It's funny I just looked back at one of my old youtube channels the other day and the video that had the most views was a BHE video I did with 33K views. Not a lot by youtube standards but a lot for me.

I also remember that back on the day here at AZ when people were shouting down BHE, I did a live stream where I had posters CALL me and tell me what spin to put on the ball after I lined up on the shot without moving my bridge hand, just so that they could see that really worked.

Anyways, there just aren't a lot of instructors out there that really understand BHE well enough to properly teach it, but I will tell you one other thing. You know how the old adage was to have a bridge length of 8-10 inches right? Well, it's funny that standard deflection shafts have a natural pivot point of 8-10 inches. Just something to chew on. Also, swiping for spin will only work if you are on the cue's natural pivot point, which was also something that some of the old timers swore by, and is really just a variation of BHE.

Take it easy and hopefully next time I'm in the twin cities, we'll get to play some again. Last time you took that money I had won off of Hennessy...

Jaden
 
Jaden
Jaden said:
Hey Demi, you know I respect you and I don't remember if I was the first person that showed you BHE or not but I have to disagree with you on a couple of points. First, While feel plays a role in everything related to pool to an extent, BHE works for the vast majority of shots and speeds without alternate adjustments. Sure, slower shots where swerve has a chance to take effect are the number one shot that does require feel and a lot of adjustment, most shots, even long shots work just fine without any additional adjustment.

I'm pretty sure I don't have to remind you who taught ME BHE.

Like you've said, the people who complain about it not working are typically people, like yourself, who had already learned to compensate directly in their aim via feel and those who tried it, but didn't really work at it.

There are a couple of things about it that make it completely different. Firstly, the stance needs to be changed so that your arm doesn't run into your body from shifting the arm. Secondly, you have to learn to trust the new shot line and not try to steer the cue during the stroke.

I'll be the first to agree it's not going to be for everybody, but for those who haven't gotten too deep into learning the game, it can be a great method of getting a good starting point for trusting to learn side spin.

Also, I agree with you, learning to use and get comfortable with spin shots while still hitting the balls how you are expecting is an essential part of getting better at the game. Especially when you get into advanced one pocket and banking with widening and shortening the angles.

It's funny I just looked back at one of my old youtube channels the other day and the video that had the most views was a BHE video I did with 33K views. Not a lot by youtube standards but a lot for me.

I also remember that back on the day here at AZ when people were shouting down BHE, I did a live stream where I had posters CALL me and tell me what spin to put on the ball after I lined up on the shot without moving my bridge hand, just so that they could see that really worked.

Anyways, there just aren't a lot of instructors out there that really understand BHE well enough to properly teach it, but I will tell you one other thing. You know how the old adage was to have a bridge length of 8-10 inches right? Well, it's funny that standard deflection shafts have a natural pivot point of 8-10 inches. Just something to chew on. Also, swiping for spin will only work if you are on the cue's natural pivot point, which was also something that some of the old timers swore by, and is really just a variation of BHE.

Take it easy and hopefully next time I'm in the twin cities, we'll get to play some again. Last time you took that money I had won off of Hennessy...
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Hey Jaden! Time flies my friend. Time flies.

As I said, I'm not against BHE. If someone learns it and can make it work for them, that's fine with me. And I don't use BHE so I look foolish. My point isn't that it isn't workable. But I have to believe there is a lot of feel involved. What happens if you only have room for a 5" bridge, or due to an obstruction you have to use a 14" bridge? What happens if you are slightly elevated? What about shooting longer distances or going from sliding cloth where the cue ball never curves back to a more worn cloth? So there is feel and there is a workable system.

Now, I am not saying that it's all or nothing. That if there is any feel involved they don't work. Like kicking systems, just because there might be some feel in the adjustments doesn't mean that they aren't useful. So I'm fine with BHE for those who want to use it.

But what would you tell someone who has tried BHE for 10 shots and is ready to give up because it doesn't work for them? Wouldn't you tell them to 1) Put in more shots and 2) develop a feel to go along with the system so they can benefit from it? Isn't that how you learned to make it work?

I tend to feel the same about aiming systems. I don't remember our BHE conversation but do remember the contact to contact point aiming system. I feel the same way. If it helps people, great. No problem. But put in the time to develop the feel for how the balls throw and grab and what your shot tendencies are on different set ups.

That's all I'm saying. Not 'systems are bad'. But put in the time to develop feel. That is all.

And the MAIN point of what my original post was aimed at was telling people not to give up on sidespin. It is a major net positive and we are definitely on the same page there.

Take care!
 
Tin Man said:
Jaden


Hey Jaden! Time flies my friend. Time flies.

As I said, I'm not against BHE. If someone learns it and can make it work for them, that's fine with me. And I don't use BHE so I look foolish. My point isn't that it isn't workable. But I have to believe there is a lot of feel involved. What happens if you only have room for a 5" bridge, or due to an obstruction you have to use a 14" bridge? What happens if you are slightly elevated? What about shooting longer distances or going from sliding cloth where the cue ball never curves back to a more worn cloth? So there is feel and there is a workable system.

Now, I am not saying that it's all or nothing. That if there is any feel involved they don't work. Like kicking systems, just because there might be some feel in the adjustments doesn't mean that they aren't useful. So I'm fine with BHE for those who want to use it.

But what would you tell someone who has tried BHE for 10 shots and is ready to give up because it doesn't work for them? Wouldn't you tell them to 1) Put in more shots and 2) develop a feel to go along with the system so they can benefit from it? Isn't that how you learned to make it work?

I tend to feel the same about aiming systems. I don't remember our BHE conversation but do remember the contact to contact point aiming system. I feel the same way. If it helps people, great. No problem. But put in the time to develop the feel for how the balls throw and grab and what your shot tendencies are on different set ups.

That's all I'm saying. Not 'systems are bad'. But put in the time to develop feel. That is all.

And the MAIN point of what my original post was aimed at was telling people not to give up on sidespin. It is a major net positive and we are definitely on the same page there.

Take care!
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All valid points and things I've explained in some of my videos. I mark my cues pivot point and when you can't bridge at the pivot point you can line up straight, pivot at the pivot point and then while keeping the cue on that pivoted line, slide the bridge to wherever you need it to be and it will still work.

Again, it's not for everyone and I understand the thought that it must require a lot of feel. In response to that I'll relay two short stories.

I thought the exact same thing when Efren taught it to me, so much so in fact that i didn't even TRY it for 3 years. Then when I was talking with another friend, Chip Klein, and he explained it to me. I realized I should at least try it and I've been using it ever since.

A second story was right before you and I met and played for the first time. I was visiting and playing some with Joey A in New Orleans and he said the same thing, that being that he thought it didn't work. I said try it on a shot and he said that a shot he always had trouble with was a shot with the ball on the long rail two diamonds up and the cueball on the other end of the table using inside follow to come back around the table three rails for shape. He set it up and cinched it first shot using BHE... The look on his face was priceless.

Jaden

p.s. and absolutely, you must put in the time and develop feel. It's an essential part of the game. There are no shortcuts, there are ways that end up working better for some players over other methods, but no short cuts.
 
A second story was right before we met and played for the first time. I was visiting and playing some with Joey A in New Orleans and he said the same thing, that being that he thought it didn't work. I said try it on a shot and he said that a shot he always had trouble with was a shot with the ball on the long rail two diamonds up and the cueball on the other end of the table using inside follow to come back around the table three rails for shape. He set it up and cinched it first shot using BHE... The look on his face was priceless.
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To be fair I'm not saying that it can't work. I believe you Jaden.

I think for me it's just solving a problem I don't have. There are differences between me and the elite players but comfort with side spin is not what's holding me back. So yes, to each their own.

And anyone who uses BHE and makes it work, great. I guess I'm talking to those who have tried it and are ready to give up on sidespin, or those who haven't even given it a fair chance. I don't care how they spin the ball as long as they keep at it and master it to where you don't have to think about it. But quitting after a few days and sticking to center isn't ok. Neither is thinking analytically during matches. I'm sure we're in agreement there.
 
Oh yeah, I do remember showing you the contact point to contact point aiming system. I've reverted back to using almost all feel except on combo and carom shots, but I still line up center shot and then pivot for the spin I'm putting on the ball. Yeah and I would suggest anyone that doesn't have a proper instructor for BHE should develop feel first and then convert later if they have trouble with spin. Either way, you've got to put in the time.

Jaden
 
Just for entertainment, well maybe to further discussion a little, I have used a parallel shift and back hand english, also a combination of the two. They both work as does any combination of the two.

Something rarely discussed is front hand english. It may be the best of the three other than having to shift your bridge until you get comfortable dropping down in position. The bridge hand is the axis using BHE, the grip hand is the axis using FHE. The result is that the cue is angled to the side less. Of the three basic types of side, front hand english seems to require the least aiming adjustments.

A combination of offsets seems to offer some benefits. Roughly half parallel offset and half BHE works well. Maybe best as in easiest to aim with is a combination of FHE and BHE. Never tried a combination of parallel shift and front hand english.

I generally go with a parallel shift, just on the HAMB theory. After countless shots with parallel, it is most natural to me, which isn't to say I consider it most natural if starting from near the beginning. I keep promising myself I am going to work more with front hand english.

I can use side spin but I have to say that speed and angles with minimum spin works best for me. The less I have to use anything to interfere with natural roll the better I shoot.

Hu
 
As somebody who has tried to develop a feel to adjust for spin at different speeds and distances, and has now been using the SAWS system, I can give you some observations about my experience using it. Overall, I think SAWS is good to learn, even if you just use feel for spin shots.

Learning SAWS will make you understand the variables, since you can't apply the system unless you account for the variables of the upcoming shot. The variables include distance between CB and OB, speed of shot, amount of follow/draw, and bridge length (if something different than your standard one). Even if you purely use feel to apply side spin, it's useful and necessary to think about these variables.

I only use the system, when I'm using a fair amount of spin, let's say a half tip or more. I can use feel effectively when it's a small amount of side spin. I also don't use the system if I'm jacked up on the shot. I need to have a normal cue angle. If I'm hitting down on the top side of the CB with any english, it's kind of a desperation shot, and all bets are off.

Learning the system will make you a better cue-ist. When you need to apply a certain combination of BHE and FHE, you'll be tapping into the fine motor control part of your brain to be aware of how to pivot for BHE and adjusting your bridge hand to apply FHE. It takes a fair amount of practice to dial-in your techniques to apply the system accurately. I can tell my cue techniques are better.

Once I decide to use SAWS on some shot, I don't let myself override the shot with any FEEL after I've applied it. I've learned that if I do things properly, then the system gives me the best results. In fact, when I miss a shot, the most likely reason is that I didn't see the center-ball aiming line correctly. SAWS starts with orienting to the center-ball aiming line. If you don't get that right, you're applying a system on top of a bad starting point.

Lastly, it has improved my confidence on spin shots. The whole reason I started down the path to learn it was when I was doing a certain practice shot, which needed a good amount of tip offset (tip or more), hit at a soft speed, and a long distance between CB and OB. This is like the worst case scenario for a side-spin shot. At the time, I only used parallel shift with feel. I couldn't gauge the swerve after the initial squirt with any reliability. Before, I'd never expect to make this shot more than 1 out of every 10 times, but with SAWS I'd have a fighting chance, because I've learned to take into account the variables and spent time learning the techniques.

Take these observations for what they're worth. I'm not a touring professional. I'm a bar-box league guy, who practices at home on a 9 footer. I'm hoping to climb from A to AA rating some day, but still just a hack.
 
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