another warp question

rustysregular10

rustysregular10

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i know this topic has been covered several times before but i couldnt find the answers i was looking for. i recently aquired a tim scruggs sneaky pete that has a warp a little above half way between the points and the joint. i know it doesnt effect playability as ive already been shooting with it. im just a little self concious about it because i know its there. i dont want to scrap it i want to keep it as my player. can this be fixed? how much of the warp can be taken away? i dont care if the warp is reduced but not completely gone. will applying a lot of finish do the trick, or trimming it down some, or what? please dont reply with negative comments about this thread being posted before, im looking for insight. i prefer if youre not trying to help me that you not reply. please provide any help that you can. thank you in advance.
 
My advice would be leave it alone & learn to live with it. Technically, it can be trimmed up to the point of removing the warp but that will greatly decrease the diameter of the cue & that will alter it's playability that you like so much. It would be an expensive job as once it has been recut, the shaft would need shaved to mate to the new joint diameter & a new finish applied. The points would no longer be anywhere near even, either. In essence, to fix it would mean make it ugly, reduce the diameter to the point of altering it's playability, and cost you a lot of money.

I see these sneakies sell for around $500-$700 every so often and that's likely about what your repair would cost. So maybe just save some cash up and buy another when the opportunity arises. Otherwise, accept yours for what it is & play with it.
 
But you could (theoretically) cut a WARP groove and wrap the forearm and encapsulate it all in epoxy to 'fix' the warp...:thumbup:

Would be a shame to cover up Timmy's work though...:(
 
I should also add that in a warped butt, the joint pin is no longer centerline & never will be again without removing, drilling out, plugging & reinstalling. More money in repair cost. Point being, it's going to be expensive to make that cue right again & once done it won't be the same cue you know & like so much right now.
 
qbilder said:
I should also add that in a warped butt, the joint pin is no longer centerline & never will be again without removing, drilling out, plugging & reinstalling. More money in repair cost. Point being, it's going to be expensive to make that cue right again & once done it won't be the same cue you know & like so much right now.
Click to expand...

Amen!!!!

Some cues are bad. This is a bad one. Life goes on. Use the cue if you like it. Pretty hard to sell a cue with a warped butt section.
 
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Ditto what the others have said about repair - there really isn't any.

But you like the cue, so decide which way the warp affects you the least and make a small dot somewhere on the butt to identify "up" so that you always hold the queue in the same orientation. Any irregularities in the hit will then be the same each time you hit the cueball. These irregularities will be learned by your brain and muscles (muscle memory) and soon it will just be a part of your game.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
rustysregular10 said:
i know this topic has been covered several times before but i couldnt find the answers i was looking for. i recently aquired a tim scruggs sneaky pete that has a warp a little above half way between the points and the joint. i know it doesnt effect playability as ive already been shooting with it. im just a little self concious about it because i know its there. i dont want to scrap it i want to keep it as my player. can this be fixed? how much of the warp can be taken away? i dont care if the warp is reduced but not completely gone. will applying a lot of finish do the trick, or trimming it down some, or what? please dont reply with negative comments about this thread being posted before, im looking for insight. i prefer if youre not trying to help me that you not reply. please provide any help that you can. thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
It has not been stated how much of a warp this cue has in it. If it was put between centers and wobbled only .020 in the middle then you might have a cue that could have a light true up pass in the middle barely touching each end and then someone who does the thicker epoxy finish could slow rotate the cue with a really thick refinish applied to bring it back up to size and have it roll straight on the table. But even that simple fix would not be a cheap repair. If it has a lot of warp cutting and reassembling is about all you can do and would only reduce the problem, not eliminate it. So probably the best advice given already is to just live with it.
 
rustysregular10 said:
i know this topic has been covered several times before but i couldnt find the answers i was looking for. i recently aquired a tim scruggs sneaky pete that has a warp a little above half way between the points and the joint. i know it doesnt effect playability as ive already been shooting with it. im just a little self concious about it because i know its there. i dont want to scrap it i want to keep it as my player. can this be fixed? how much of the warp can be taken away? i dont care if the warp is reduced but not completely gone. will applying a lot of finish do the trick, or trimming it down some, or what? please dont reply with negative comments about this thread being posted before, im looking for insight. i prefer if youre not trying to help me that you not reply. please provide any help that you can. thank you in advance.
Click to expand...


As most have stated, the best thing would probably be to leave it alone. That being said, and I'm not really suggesting this, but it could possibly be cut below the points and a handle added, either wrapped or a contrasting wood handle put in the middle, pushing the points up a little making it a little thicker at the joint where it could be trimmed down, new pin installed etc... It would be more of a conversion like a lot of the old "Titlist" are done. It would cost more than the cue would be worth for sure, but if you're looking at all the possibilities, it _could_ be done. And no, I'm not interested in doing the work.
 
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