Anyone ever seen a moving staircase??

would need to see pics but wouldnt a jointed staircase solve you problem?

Earthtools_Staircase1.jpg


Obviously with the joint at a higher spot, say 3-4 steps down.
 
softshot said:
central staircases are often structural elements.. if its in the middle and you have no posts..
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why would a set of attic stairs that fold up be up to code for a basement but a rolling set wouldnt be?
 
dereklovejoy said:
why would a set of attic stairs that fold up be up to code for a basement but a rolling set wouldnt be?
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Building codes are usually local... you need to consult yours.
 
14oneman said:
Seems if you put a landing in, half-way down the stairs, then turned the remainder of steps 90 degrees to, it would solve your problem, assuming you have enough ceiling height.
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This immediately came to my mind as well, how tall is the ceiling???

If you can, post a pic with ALL measurements....ceiling height, exactly where the stairs are from all sides.....lot of smart people on here, guarantee you will find an affordable opportunity if you have some basic building skills (or have a buddy to help)....

Something very simple might be to either make the stairs steeper ie...from this:
___
....___
.........___
..............___

to this:

___

...___

......___

Inset with the same footprint....I have seen this in basements to avoid taking up room....make sure you have good hand rails....
 
dereklovejoy said:
why would a set of attic stairs that fold up be up to code for a basement but a rolling set wouldnt be?
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They wouldnt be....My uncle is a cabinet maker and he made some stairs like what your talking about in someone elses house he knows. Yes, it was not to code if it were in the city. The person had space problems and wanted to use as much space as possible. So they built a staircase like what you see big libraries have. This thing was heavy duty. If it was used as stairs, not just any schmo would be able to tell that they rolled to the right out of the way of the door. They made some deal on the base of the stairs to lock it in place so there wasnt any movement whatsoever, and it also lock in place at the top.

SO yes, it can be done, just depends on if you want it to be to code, or not. If its not to code, make it where it can easily be removed if you decide to sell the house and permanent ones would need to be installed.

If any of this makes sense
 
I have a set of stairs/ladder that folds down from my attic; is that a possible solution?

How about a brass pole like the fire house has? It could also double for some fun with the parties.
 
dereklovejoy said:
why would a set of attic stairs that fold up be up to code for a basement but a rolling set wouldnt be?
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Only your local inspector can answer what is or is not up to code, but being up to code is really only one of two major considerations here. I don't know if finishing your basement is something that you are planning to do, or have perhaps already done, but there are rules in most areas that dictate what can or cannot be deemed as "living space" in a home.

For instance, if I frame up and finish a bedroom in my basement, but I put it in an area of the basement that doesn't have any windows, then I cannot technically count that as a bedroom when I go to sell the home because it is lacking an egress window, which is a requirement for a bedroom in my area. A drop-down staircase leading to the attic, while certainly up to code, would most likely not be considered sufficient access to the area to call it living space, even if you did build a room up there that met the other requirements for being "finished". This is a concern that I would have with regard to your basement if you use anything other than whatever your local building codes guy considers to be a "standard" staircase. This would be especially worrisome if you have finished or plan to finish part of your basement, as it could have a dramatic effect on the resale value of your home.

Give your local codes guy a call; he probably gets similar questions every week, and may even have some good suggestions on how to deal with the issue.

Good luck,
Aaron
 
softshot said:
central staircases are often structural elements... I guarantee you it is carrying load...don't mean to rain on your parade.. just trying to be realistic..
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jasonlaus said:
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I would also think the stairwell wall is more than just wall. A pole is better than a wall, but it will still impede.

So we gotta put in a stronger joist? Is that hard?!?!;) :o
 
Black-Balled said:
I would also think the stairwell wall is more than just wall. A pole is better than a wall, but it will still impede.

So we gotta put in a stronger joist? Is that hard?!?!;) :o
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Just put a steel I-beam in your basement. No load-bearing walls or poles needed after that. Consult your favorite engineer to determine what size I-beam you need for your basement. ;)

Aaron
 
Hello, easy... 1 word Elevator:grin:

If you can't afford one, put a "well" sign on the basement door. Attach a bucket to a rope and lower/rise your self. No codes for indoor wells.
 
Changing the stairs and staying within code will be very hard. A landing will probably put you over the min. head height 6' 10" (where the stair opening ends to stair run) Folding stairs are ok for storage areas, but a basement isn't consider a storage area. What is the rise (step height) of your stairs? Codes very, but usually you can go to 7". If the stairs are at 5" you might be able to move to 7" and save 2 step spacing.

Formula: Floor to floor height 8' 1" / 5" = 19.4 (this is the number of steps) now / 8'1" by 19.4 and it gives you 5.1" for each step... can't have .4 steps.

8'1" / 7 = 13.85 round to 14... divide 8'1" by 14 = 6.9". Most steps are 11" long, so you would save 50+". You probably already have 14 steps though.
 
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alright some dimensions for ya.

from the outside wall to the stairs is 13'6 making that the width. The other direction from wall to wall is 28 ft. ceiling height is about 7'8 give or take so no room for any kind of turning stairs, was just going to drywall is over with some recessed lighting of some kind in it.

what i was going to do is cut the stairs at ceiling level cut and additional like 4-5 inches off whatever the height of the wheels would be. Leave the stairs just as they are now with supports on both sides and when putting them back into place have some kind of pins that go thru the floor joists into the stair supports to lock them into place.
 
dereklovejoy said:
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alright some dimensions for ya.

from the outside wall to the stairs is 13'6 making that the width. The other direction from wall to wall is 28 ft. ceiling height is about 7'8 give or take so no room for any kind of turning stairs, was just going to drywall is over with some recessed lighting of some kind in it.

what i was going to do is cut the stairs at ceiling level cut and additional like 4-5 inches off whatever the height of the wheels would be. Leave the stairs just as they are now with supports on both sides and when putting them back into place have some kind of pins that go thru the floor joists into the stair supports to lock them into place.
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How far past the bottom stair does the opening above go?
 
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