Best Wood(s)
- Thread starter Revlucjl
- Start date
Yes, if they only knew what goes on in the Dungeon after dark.
The truth is Joe, the lathes and such are probably what keeps most of us normal. If I didn't have a spot in the cellar to get away from life, I'd probably hang around AZ all day long. Wait, I do that anyway.
Just when I start thinking that I need to get back to work, I realize where I work and what I do and then appreciate my little impromptu
holidays even more.
I'm taking my Taxi plate off lease and putting a car back on the road soon and will manage drivers.
With any luck, I won't have to go back to work. Getting a Little Beaver Earth Auger soon and will see if
there is any money in post holes in the summer. I think there is.
But, you will never see me behind the wheel of a Taxi ever again.
The truth is Joe, the lathes and such are probably what keeps most of us normal. If I didn't have a spot in the cellar to get away from life, I'd probably hang around AZ all day long. Wait, I do that anyway.
Just when I start thinking that I need to get back to work, I realize where I work and what I do and then appreciate my little impromptu
holidays even more.
I'm taking my Taxi plate off lease and putting a car back on the road soon and will manage drivers.
With any luck, I won't have to go back to work. Getting a Little Beaver Earth Auger soon and will see if
there is any money in post holes in the summer. I think there is.
But, you will never see me behind the wheel of a Taxi ever again.
Last edited:
Here is an answer to your question. It is from my cue building book which in my very biased opinion should be read by most people who are inspired to build cues. The uses I list for the woods are not cored or stabilyzed, just using them natural. You can core and stabilyze many woods to be used for structural parts.
Common Pool Cue Woods:
Amboyna Burl Pterocarpus indicus. (East Indies) This burl varies in color from natural blonde to blood red. It can be loaded with fiddleback and birdseye figure. Only recommended for butt sleeves and inlays. (41 lb/ft.)
American Ash also called White Ash. Fraxinus americana. (USA) The heartwood is grey brown. The wood has good strength, elasticity, toughness, and stiffness and hardness qualities for a wood of its weight and has small movement in usage. This is another popular shaft wood mainly used for snooker cues. It is more stable than maple, but not fine textured. (41 lb/ft.)
Blackwood, African Dalbergia melanoxylon. (East Africa) It is dark purple-brown with black streaks and appears to be almost black. You must baby this wood in the drying and turning process, but once it is dried and finished it only has small movement in service. Very Heavy. (75 lb/ft.)
Bloodwood also called Cardinal Wood. Brosimum Paraense. (South America) This is a tight straight grained wood with red to crimson color. It works and finishes a lot like Ebony. Gives a harder cue ball feel than maple but less hard than Ebony. It has small movement in service. (62 lb/ft)
Bocote Cordia eleagnoides. (Central America) This is a straight grain wood that is a light to medium tan color with dark brown grain lines. It looks good and plays very good and has small movement in service. (60 lb/ft.)
Bubinga also called African Rosewood. Guibourtia demeusei. (Africa) The wood is medium brown with red tint and lighter red to purple streaks. It is stable in service. Makes a good one piece butt. (55 lb/ft.)
Canary Wood Centroloblum orinocense. (Central America) A straight grained wood with a medium to coarse texture. A tanned yellow color with streaks of a variety of reds, golds and browns. Makes a good one piece butt. Small movement in service. (50 lb/ft.)
Cedar Juniperus virginiana. (USA) The heartwood has a beautiful mix of salmon to dark red. Cedar is prone to splitting so it is not recommended for structural parts, but makes nice inlays and points. There are other types of cedar from all over the world that have similar qualities. (36 lb/ft.)
Coco Bolo Dalbergia retusa. (Central America) It varies in color from yellowish orange with red and purple streaks to a darker brown with a mixture of subdued colors. This is probably the third most popular wood among American cue makers, maple being the first and Ebony the second. It is a very heavy tough wood but still plays well. It is too heavy to make a one piece butt with and should be joined to the handle with aluminum or wood threads so as not to add any unneeded weight. It is somewhat oily and the finish will make it smear if you put on a full wet coat first. Seal the cue with a light coat and let dry before spraying full flow coats. This wood seems to cause allergic reactions from touching or breathing the dust among more cue makers than any other wood. Small movement in service. (68 lb/ft)
Ebony, Black also called Gabon Ebony. Diospyrus crassiflora. (Western Africa) The very best pieces are jet black, but some grey stripes are common. The Madagascar ebony will have a lot more grey than Gabon ebony does. This is another heavy wood. It finishes beautifully to a mirror black. Beware of flaws in the finish, because ebony will show any mistakes, scratches or flaws. It is the perfect background wood to inlay with ivory, mother of pearl and other light colored inlays. Small movement in service. (64 lb/ft.)
Ebony, Macassor also called Striped Ebony. Diospyros celebica. (The Celebes Islands) It is dark brown with greyish-brown or yellow-brown streaks running throughout. It has less movement in service than Gabon ebony and is beautiful without any inlays. (68 lb/ft.)
Goncales Alves also called Tiger Wood. Astronium fraxinifolium. (Brazil) It is reddish brown with severe dark brown streaks or stripes. The beautiful stripes can fade. Small movement in service. (59 lb/ft.)
Holly I. Aquifolium. (Europe and Western Asia) It is a cream-white wood and makes great borders around darker inlays and some cue makers use it as a substitute for ivory. Large movement in service, so it is best used for inlays only. (50 lb/ft.)
Kingwood Dalbergia cearensis. (South America) Rich violet brown wood with streaks of dark violet or near black streaks. It is a very heavy yet beautiful wood. Finishes well. Small movement in service. (75 lb/ft.)
Koa also called Curly Koa. Acacia koa. (Hawaiian Islands) Reddish to dark brown and some has the curly fiddleback figure. This is what is sought after by cue makers. Small movement in service. (41 lb/ft.)
Lacewood Cardwellia sublimis. (Australia) Light colored reddish brown wood with numerous broad rays that show up as a beautiful fleck figure. This wood is very porous and must be sealed before finishing. Small movement in service. It is a fairly light weight wood. (39 lb/ft.)
Mahogany Swietenia macrophylla. (Central and South America) A medium density heartwood pale brown to pink to dark reddish brown in color. It is a premier carving wood and was once very popular in cues, but not used much anymore. Small movement in service. (40 lb/ft.)
Maple, Hard Rock also called Sugar Maple and White Maple. Acer saccharum. (USA) The straight grain variety is sought for cue shafts and handle stock. The sapwood is used for cues. It is slightly prone to warpage or shrinkage. It is high in all strength properties, except stiffness, which is medium. Texture is fine and even. The feel of this wood and the white color make it the number one choice for cue shafts. Medium movement in service. (45 lb/ft.)
Maple, Birdseye. This is the same wood as above, but it has small to large eye looking markings. Some say a disease causes it, but that it doesn’t effect the strength of the wood. Medium movement in service.
Maple, Curly or Tiger. This is the same wood as above also, but has a pattern that really shows up in the quarter sawn maple. It gives the appearance of swirls or rings going around the cue. Some call this pattern “fiddleback”, because it is often seen on the back of violins. Sometimes the curly maple is less stable than the clear maple.
Oak, Red Quercus rubra. (USA) A straight grained wood with coarse texture. Color ranges from light cream, pinkish-red to dark tan or golden brown. It is somewhat prone to splitting, but has been used in cues successfully in the past. Medium movement in service. (48 lb/ft.)
Oak, White Quercus alba. (USA) A pale yellow-brown colored wood that has the same basic characteristics as Red Oak. (47 lb/ft.)
Olive Wood Olea hochstetteri. (East Africa) Pale to mild brown with beautiful irregular brown and black streaks. Large movement in service. So dip often in Nelsonite and go slow. (55 lb/ft.)
Osage Orange also called Bois D’ Arc. Maclura pomifera. (Midwestern USA) A yellow orange colored wood. A very strong and durable wood. Very much prone to splitting so I only recommend using it for Inlays, points and maybe a butt sleeve. (51 lb/ft.)
Padauk Pterocarpus soyauxii. (Tropical Africa) This wood is either orange or sometimes red. It has a course texture and it is Very stable in service. (45 lb/ft.)
Pink Ivory Rhamnus zeyheri. (South and Southeast Africa) A very beautiful pink colored heartwood. It is fine textured and straight grained wood. It makes beautiful inlays, points and butt sleeves. It has large movement in service, so if you want to use it for structural parts use the Nelsonite often. (56 lb/ft.)
Purple Heart also called Amaranth. Peltogyne pubescens. (Central America and Tropical America.) It is a deep purple-violet. This makes a great hitting one piece butt, unless you really get the heavy variety. Makes a great stiffer break-jump cue shaft. Small movement in service. (54 lb/ft.)
Ramin Gonystylus macrophyllum. (Asia) This is a straight grain straw colored wood. It is used for the shaft portion on the very low-end oriental cues. It is very unstable in service and I don’t know how it ever came to be a pool cue wood. Large movement in service. (41 lb/ft.)
Red Heart Erthroxylon spp. (Central America) A pale to dark red wood that will deepen with age. Grain is straight and tight. When fresh turned or sanded it gives a beautiful red color, but it will darken with exposure. Use a UV filtered finish to hold the color. Medium movement in service. (50 lb/ft.)
Rosewood, Brazilian Dalbergia nigra. (Brazil) The color of this wood, as with most Rosewoods varies. It goes from chocolate or violet brown to violet streaked with black, and often, golden streaks appear. This can make an excellent one piece butt and has small movement in service. (53 lb/Ft.)
Rosewood, Honduras Dalbergia stevensonii. (Belize) I know you are like me and wonder why they don’t call it “Belize Rosewood” since that is the only place it grows. It is a heavy wood and varies from pinkish to purple-brown with black markings. This is a favorite among cue and table makers. It finishes beautifully and has small movement in service. (63 lb/ft.)
Rosewood, Indian Dalbergia latifolia. (India) Very similar to Brazilian.
Shedua Guibourtia ehie (Africa) A yellowish brown wood with darker brown streaks. Often has curly figure. It is in the same family as Bubinga. It is great once piece butt wood. Small movement in service. (52 lb/ft.)
Snakewood Piratinera guianensis. (Central and Tropical South America) It has a grain pattern that looks similar to a snakeskin and can also have spots like a leopard. It is usually red-brown with black speckles or stripes. It tends to crack when drying and has medium movement in service, so I don’t recommend it for cue forearms. It does make excellent inlay material. Just work around the cracks and soak in Nelsonite. very heavy wood. (81 lb/ft.)
Thuya Burl Tetraclinis atriculata. (North Africa) The root burl of this wood is a rich golden brown and has some of the prettiest birdseye figure that can be found. It is not structurally sound so should be used only for butt sleeves and inlays. (42 lb/ft.)
Tulipwood Dalbergia frutescens (South America, mainly Brazil) This wood is a beautiful pink-yellow with a striped figure in varying shades of salmon, and rose red to violet. The book says this wood has small movement in service. But my experience says to watch out and dip it often in Nelsonite, because it can warp. It is really beautiful and looks good as inlays and parts. Make sure it is kiln dried. (60 lb/ft.)
Walnut Juglans nigra. (USA and Canada) This wood is a rich dark brown to purplish-black and is considered straight grained. It was once a popular wood in cues, but is not used much anymore. The rosewoods are less likely to split and are usually more appealing to the eye. It would make a good alternative to maple in the handle/wrap area when lighter weight is desired. It is about 10% lighter than maple and more stable. (40 lb/ft.)
Wenge Milletia laurentii. (The Congo, Africa) This wood is very dense and dark brown in color with very fine, almost black veins. The war situation has made this once fairly common wood harder to come by. Many are selling a relative wood named Panga Panga as Wenge. It is pronounce something like wing-ee or ween-gee. It makes a nice heavier weight one piece butt. Small movement in service. (55 lb/ft.)
Yellow Heart Euxylophora Paraensis. (Central America) A fine straight grained wood with bright yellow color throughout the wood. Great for structural parts and inlays. Small movement in service. (58 lb/ft.)
Zebrawood Microberlinia brazzavillensis. (West Africa) A light golden yellow wood with narrow veining or streaks that are dark brown to almost black. It has a course texture and must be sealed before finishing. During the drying process this wood moves around a lot. Make sure it is dry before using it as cue wood. Makes good point and inlay wood. Keep after it with the Nelsonite to avoid problems. (46 lb/ft.)
Ziricote Cordia Species (Florida to the West Indies and South to Brazil) It has about the same texture as ebony, but has a dark brown color and often with slightly green tint. It is heavy and works about like ebony. (62 lb/ft.)
Common Pool Cue Woods:
Amboyna Burl Pterocarpus indicus. (East Indies) This burl varies in color from natural blonde to blood red. It can be loaded with fiddleback and birdseye figure. Only recommended for butt sleeves and inlays. (41 lb/ft.)
American Ash also called White Ash. Fraxinus americana. (USA) The heartwood is grey brown. The wood has good strength, elasticity, toughness, and stiffness and hardness qualities for a wood of its weight and has small movement in usage. This is another popular shaft wood mainly used for snooker cues. It is more stable than maple, but not fine textured. (41 lb/ft.)
Blackwood, African Dalbergia melanoxylon. (East Africa) It is dark purple-brown with black streaks and appears to be almost black. You must baby this wood in the drying and turning process, but once it is dried and finished it only has small movement in service. Very Heavy. (75 lb/ft.)
Bloodwood also called Cardinal Wood. Brosimum Paraense. (South America) This is a tight straight grained wood with red to crimson color. It works and finishes a lot like Ebony. Gives a harder cue ball feel than maple but less hard than Ebony. It has small movement in service. (62 lb/ft)
Bocote Cordia eleagnoides. (Central America) This is a straight grain wood that is a light to medium tan color with dark brown grain lines. It looks good and plays very good and has small movement in service. (60 lb/ft.)
Bubinga also called African Rosewood. Guibourtia demeusei. (Africa) The wood is medium brown with red tint and lighter red to purple streaks. It is stable in service. Makes a good one piece butt. (55 lb/ft.)
Canary Wood Centroloblum orinocense. (Central America) A straight grained wood with a medium to coarse texture. A tanned yellow color with streaks of a variety of reds, golds and browns. Makes a good one piece butt. Small movement in service. (50 lb/ft.)
Cedar Juniperus virginiana. (USA) The heartwood has a beautiful mix of salmon to dark red. Cedar is prone to splitting so it is not recommended for structural parts, but makes nice inlays and points. There are other types of cedar from all over the world that have similar qualities. (36 lb/ft.)
Coco Bolo Dalbergia retusa. (Central America) It varies in color from yellowish orange with red and purple streaks to a darker brown with a mixture of subdued colors. This is probably the third most popular wood among American cue makers, maple being the first and Ebony the second. It is a very heavy tough wood but still plays well. It is too heavy to make a one piece butt with and should be joined to the handle with aluminum or wood threads so as not to add any unneeded weight. It is somewhat oily and the finish will make it smear if you put on a full wet coat first. Seal the cue with a light coat and let dry before spraying full flow coats. This wood seems to cause allergic reactions from touching or breathing the dust among more cue makers than any other wood. Small movement in service. (68 lb/ft)
Ebony, Black also called Gabon Ebony. Diospyrus crassiflora. (Western Africa) The very best pieces are jet black, but some grey stripes are common. The Madagascar ebony will have a lot more grey than Gabon ebony does. This is another heavy wood. It finishes beautifully to a mirror black. Beware of flaws in the finish, because ebony will show any mistakes, scratches or flaws. It is the perfect background wood to inlay with ivory, mother of pearl and other light colored inlays. Small movement in service. (64 lb/ft.)
Ebony, Macassor also called Striped Ebony. Diospyros celebica. (The Celebes Islands) It is dark brown with greyish-brown or yellow-brown streaks running throughout. It has less movement in service than Gabon ebony and is beautiful without any inlays. (68 lb/ft.)
Goncales Alves also called Tiger Wood. Astronium fraxinifolium. (Brazil) It is reddish brown with severe dark brown streaks or stripes. The beautiful stripes can fade. Small movement in service. (59 lb/ft.)
Holly I. Aquifolium. (Europe and Western Asia) It is a cream-white wood and makes great borders around darker inlays and some cue makers use it as a substitute for ivory. Large movement in service, so it is best used for inlays only. (50 lb/ft.)
Kingwood Dalbergia cearensis. (South America) Rich violet brown wood with streaks of dark violet or near black streaks. It is a very heavy yet beautiful wood. Finishes well. Small movement in service. (75 lb/ft.)
Koa also called Curly Koa. Acacia koa. (Hawaiian Islands) Reddish to dark brown and some has the curly fiddleback figure. This is what is sought after by cue makers. Small movement in service. (41 lb/ft.)
Lacewood Cardwellia sublimis. (Australia) Light colored reddish brown wood with numerous broad rays that show up as a beautiful fleck figure. This wood is very porous and must be sealed before finishing. Small movement in service. It is a fairly light weight wood. (39 lb/ft.)
Mahogany Swietenia macrophylla. (Central and South America) A medium density heartwood pale brown to pink to dark reddish brown in color. It is a premier carving wood and was once very popular in cues, but not used much anymore. Small movement in service. (40 lb/ft.)
Maple, Hard Rock also called Sugar Maple and White Maple. Acer saccharum. (USA) The straight grain variety is sought for cue shafts and handle stock. The sapwood is used for cues. It is slightly prone to warpage or shrinkage. It is high in all strength properties, except stiffness, which is medium. Texture is fine and even. The feel of this wood and the white color make it the number one choice for cue shafts. Medium movement in service. (45 lb/ft.)
Maple, Birdseye. This is the same wood as above, but it has small to large eye looking markings. Some say a disease causes it, but that it doesn’t effect the strength of the wood. Medium movement in service.
Maple, Curly or Tiger. This is the same wood as above also, but has a pattern that really shows up in the quarter sawn maple. It gives the appearance of swirls or rings going around the cue. Some call this pattern “fiddleback”, because it is often seen on the back of violins. Sometimes the curly maple is less stable than the clear maple.
Oak, Red Quercus rubra. (USA) A straight grained wood with coarse texture. Color ranges from light cream, pinkish-red to dark tan or golden brown. It is somewhat prone to splitting, but has been used in cues successfully in the past. Medium movement in service. (48 lb/ft.)
Oak, White Quercus alba. (USA) A pale yellow-brown colored wood that has the same basic characteristics as Red Oak. (47 lb/ft.)
Olive Wood Olea hochstetteri. (East Africa) Pale to mild brown with beautiful irregular brown and black streaks. Large movement in service. So dip often in Nelsonite and go slow. (55 lb/ft.)
Osage Orange also called Bois D’ Arc. Maclura pomifera. (Midwestern USA) A yellow orange colored wood. A very strong and durable wood. Very much prone to splitting so I only recommend using it for Inlays, points and maybe a butt sleeve. (51 lb/ft.)
Padauk Pterocarpus soyauxii. (Tropical Africa) This wood is either orange or sometimes red. It has a course texture and it is Very stable in service. (45 lb/ft.)
Pink Ivory Rhamnus zeyheri. (South and Southeast Africa) A very beautiful pink colored heartwood. It is fine textured and straight grained wood. It makes beautiful inlays, points and butt sleeves. It has large movement in service, so if you want to use it for structural parts use the Nelsonite often. (56 lb/ft.)
Purple Heart also called Amaranth. Peltogyne pubescens. (Central America and Tropical America.) It is a deep purple-violet. This makes a great hitting one piece butt, unless you really get the heavy variety. Makes a great stiffer break-jump cue shaft. Small movement in service. (54 lb/ft.)
Ramin Gonystylus macrophyllum. (Asia) This is a straight grain straw colored wood. It is used for the shaft portion on the very low-end oriental cues. It is very unstable in service and I don’t know how it ever came to be a pool cue wood. Large movement in service. (41 lb/ft.)
Red Heart Erthroxylon spp. (Central America) A pale to dark red wood that will deepen with age. Grain is straight and tight. When fresh turned or sanded it gives a beautiful red color, but it will darken with exposure. Use a UV filtered finish to hold the color. Medium movement in service. (50 lb/ft.)
Rosewood, Brazilian Dalbergia nigra. (Brazil) The color of this wood, as with most Rosewoods varies. It goes from chocolate or violet brown to violet streaked with black, and often, golden streaks appear. This can make an excellent one piece butt and has small movement in service. (53 lb/Ft.)
Rosewood, Honduras Dalbergia stevensonii. (Belize) I know you are like me and wonder why they don’t call it “Belize Rosewood” since that is the only place it grows. It is a heavy wood and varies from pinkish to purple-brown with black markings. This is a favorite among cue and table makers. It finishes beautifully and has small movement in service. (63 lb/ft.)
Rosewood, Indian Dalbergia latifolia. (India) Very similar to Brazilian.
Shedua Guibourtia ehie (Africa) A yellowish brown wood with darker brown streaks. Often has curly figure. It is in the same family as Bubinga. It is great once piece butt wood. Small movement in service. (52 lb/ft.)
Snakewood Piratinera guianensis. (Central and Tropical South America) It has a grain pattern that looks similar to a snakeskin and can also have spots like a leopard. It is usually red-brown with black speckles or stripes. It tends to crack when drying and has medium movement in service, so I don’t recommend it for cue forearms. It does make excellent inlay material. Just work around the cracks and soak in Nelsonite. very heavy wood. (81 lb/ft.)
Thuya Burl Tetraclinis atriculata. (North Africa) The root burl of this wood is a rich golden brown and has some of the prettiest birdseye figure that can be found. It is not structurally sound so should be used only for butt sleeves and inlays. (42 lb/ft.)
Tulipwood Dalbergia frutescens (South America, mainly Brazil) This wood is a beautiful pink-yellow with a striped figure in varying shades of salmon, and rose red to violet. The book says this wood has small movement in service. But my experience says to watch out and dip it often in Nelsonite, because it can warp. It is really beautiful and looks good as inlays and parts. Make sure it is kiln dried. (60 lb/ft.)
Walnut Juglans nigra. (USA and Canada) This wood is a rich dark brown to purplish-black and is considered straight grained. It was once a popular wood in cues, but is not used much anymore. The rosewoods are less likely to split and are usually more appealing to the eye. It would make a good alternative to maple in the handle/wrap area when lighter weight is desired. It is about 10% lighter than maple and more stable. (40 lb/ft.)
Wenge Milletia laurentii. (The Congo, Africa) This wood is very dense and dark brown in color with very fine, almost black veins. The war situation has made this once fairly common wood harder to come by. Many are selling a relative wood named Panga Panga as Wenge. It is pronounce something like wing-ee or ween-gee. It makes a nice heavier weight one piece butt. Small movement in service. (55 lb/ft.)
Yellow Heart Euxylophora Paraensis. (Central America) A fine straight grained wood with bright yellow color throughout the wood. Great for structural parts and inlays. Small movement in service. (58 lb/ft.)
Zebrawood Microberlinia brazzavillensis. (West Africa) A light golden yellow wood with narrow veining or streaks that are dark brown to almost black. It has a course texture and must be sealed before finishing. During the drying process this wood moves around a lot. Make sure it is dry before using it as cue wood. Makes good point and inlay wood. Keep after it with the Nelsonite to avoid problems. (46 lb/ft.)
Ziricote Cordia Species (Florida to the West Indies and South to Brazil) It has about the same texture as ebony, but has a dark brown color and often with slightly green tint. It is heavy and works about like ebony. (62 lb/ft.)
^^^Great post with tons of info and ZERO "Oh my God I'm so sick of these questions I'm going to express myself like an @#$%^&* to a new member"
Maybe "suggesting the search button" after giving a valid opinion on your thoughts would be much more appropriate...
Clint
Maybe "suggesting the search button" after giving a valid opinion on your thoughts would be much more appropriate...
Clint
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First I don't know there is a best wood. I am a fan of tone woods but I have no proof they make a better cue. I am inclined to think that almost any good piece of wood that turns and glues can be made into a decent cue. Age the wood turn it correctly and I think you'll have a decent cue. I am hesitant to voice this as I like wood, get a good shaft and tip you like and the rest is more appearence than anything else.
Once you've made enough cues, especially with various woods, you'll no longer feel that way. One good way to learn woods is to make solid wood butts. Just the difference between maple & purple heart is significant enough to easily notice. Try it with some cheap woods, such as EI rosewood, maple, goncalo, purple heart, etc. Make the same 29" solid butt from each, weighted exactly the same, but only one shaft to share between them. I promise you the difference in hit, feel, sound, and playability will surprise you. Give it a try. You'll learn quite a bit, and have some nice PJ cues to sell when you're done.
JC
Coos Cues
Based on the fact that darned near every aspect of cue building has been discussed here it must be time to shut the active forum down and let the data base stand alone on search mode.
The only trouble is I'm having a problem coming up with the right key words for search to bring up posts that insult, degrade and demean me the way I like, even though there are thousands of them in this sub forum alone. Until that can be worked out I guess live posting will have to go on.
JC
The only trouble is I'm having a problem coming up with the right key words for search to bring up posts that insult, degrade and demean me the way I like, even though there are thousands of them in this sub forum alone. Until that can be worked out I guess live posting will have to go on.
JC