Break cue tip, leather or phenolic

What kind of tip are you using on your break cue?

  • Leather

    Votes: 33 45.8%
  • Phenolic

    Votes: 39 54.2%

  • Total voters
    72
  • Poll closed .
cbi1000 said:
What tip are you using on your break cue? Why?
If the choices are limited to leather or phenolic, I chose leather for greater control.

For my money however, the White Diamond tip, made of layered fiber in a resin base, is currently tops in the world. Control and performance all wrapped up in one. Great for Jumping as well as breaking.

Gene
 
Super Pro...

The layered Super Pro water buffalo tip is awesome on a break cue. No energy loss at all, hits as hard as phenolic but holds chalk and squats the rock far better.
 
should of probably at least put an other in there. while the super pro is considered leather, its not as leather is cow hide and its buffalo as well as tiger's is a combination and icludes pig.

also the white diamond, some sort of resin compound, as well as canvas resin are both extreamly popular as well and both hold chalk infinatly better than phonelic while just as hard, if not harder.

theres also other materials out there being used such as cue ball as well as whatever that thing is that varney is using now.

but back on topic of the actual poll, i use the white diamond on my breaker and my jumper and i am very happy with it.
 
rogerb said:
White diamond

what he said. I have a Picone J/B now with his white diamond tips that I am completely happy with after trying on:

X-Breaker
MACE
Sledgehammer (original)
Fury
 
socks said:
whatever that thing is that varney is using now.


Since you have no "other" option, I'll not vote. Below is a picture of the tip that socks speaks of...it's not a White Diamond. For lack of a better name we can call it a "White Kevin".:D Its harder than a white diamond, phenolic, canvas-resin, G10.....and it definately holds chalk. I discovered it as a tip material & am the only one using it right now. Pretty much top secret hardware. I give a lifetime guarantee with it...it'll never crack, break, or wear out...or I'll replace it.:)
 

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And of course my standard canvas-resin works extremely well too...you can see from the below pic just how well it'll hold chalk.:)
 

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Kevin

do you have a durometer reading for that 'secret tip'? If so, how many psi does it register?
 
Snapshot9 said:
do you have a durometer reading for that 'secret tip'? If so, how many psi does it register?

No "durometer" reading Scott. But like I told Mason several weeks ago...I was informed by the material maker that its over 100Kpsi. Its absolutely the hardest stuff I've ever seen. There are quite a few members using it now & they all rave about it. Not one dissatisfied customer. It'll make you play better. And the tips are only $300 if you order this week. After that they'll be thousands. Wait...I'm sorry Scott I got confused...I use pictures.:D
Seriously though...anyone interested can pm iowa_player and I'm sure Larry will give a fair opinion of it. :)
 
My J/B has 2 shafts. One with phenolic and one with a standard med/hard leather tip. I break just fine with either one.

It plays good too, so I usually just keep the shaft with the leather tip on it, and use it for everything
 
McChen said:
I'm gonna make a guess that the 'white kevin' tip is a piece of Ivorine IV

Well that guess wins you nada! But it should increase IV4 sells though...great ferrule material.:D My material had yet to be used in cuemaking...it had industrial applications I don't believe are even used in this country when discovered.
 
crappoolguy said:
Will the white kevin damage the cue ball and the table like the G11 does?

I really expected it to...but as of yet no. I have several cue balls that show the tiny cracks from other various tips when testing. The G10/11 will crack it almost everytime for some reason. The new white tip absolutely has not...at least yet. It may have something to do with the fact its so hard that it allows me to make the chalk holding grooves much deeper & aggressive. Other than that...I'll be honest & say I'm not sure. :)
I also would like to state that the cracks the G10/11 makes really doesn't hurt the cue ball or its performance. The are tiny hairline cracks that look almost like your tried to stick your fingernail into the ball. One of my cueballs has 100's of these cracks...yet it still plays like new. Its only cosmetic damage that someone would have to point out in good light before you even noticred it.;)
 
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