break cue weight?

Speed should never be the issue on the break. Higher speed dosen't pocket more balls, nor of course does lower speeds. I use a break cue that helps me hit a high speed stop shot. Control of cue ball over wild high speed.

I have a very close friend that breaks great at 30mph with a 26oz cue. He also weighs close to 300 lbs. I couldn't even pick that cue up more or less try to break with it.

To each his own....SPF=randyg
 
randyg said:
Speed should never be the issue on the break. Higher speed dosen't pocket more balls, nor of course does lower speeds. I use a break cue that helps me hit a high speed stop shot. Control of cue ball over wild high speed.

I have a very close friend that breaks great at 30mph with a 26oz cue. He also weighs close to 300 lbs. I couldn't even pick that cue up more or less try to break with it.

To each his own....SPF=randyg
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I am confused on what you are trying to say here.
 
Don't think much about the cue weight. The most important thing in breaking up the rack is getting most of your body's total energy concentrated into a coordinated, smooth, and consistent break stroke. If you stood at the end of the table and didn't move anything but your arms, the break would be very weak, no matter the cue weight or where you hit the rack. Conversely, if you used both arms, both legs, and your upper torso in an uncoordinated stroke, you would expend a lot of energy but the result would still be ineffective. You have to learn how to make a break stroke that is both comfortable and coordinated for your size and weight, and athletic ability. Once you find that you will be able to increase your break speed and better results will follow.

Just as there are many sizes of pitchers that can throw a baseball accurately at 90 miles per hour (every pitcher has his own unique strength, coordination, and arm, leg, and body motion) there is no one perfect way to break a rack. You have to develop your own style and practice, practice, practice. Once you develop a consistent breaking method with speed, you can break with any cue at any weight with superior results.
 
speedi said:
If you stood at the end of the table and didn't move anything but your arms, the break would be very weak, .
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This is not necessarily true. My break stroke is the same as my regular stroke. No body movement, no leg push, just Set Pause Finish.
As you suggested, the important part of the break is to have an efficient transfer of energy into the rack. Efficient is much more the result of accuracy than of power or speed.
Very few people are able to add leg kicks, body lunges, and whatever else to their stroke, and still maintain accuracy.

I would prefer an accurate break shot at 20 MPH over a wild break at 25MPH. The harder break may spread balls more sometimes, but without consistently hitting exactly where you need to on the rack, you don't know what to expect.

I don't like surprises in my pool game.

Steve
 
Das928 said:
I use a 23oz break jump. More weight more forward motion
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Someone on here showed me a great looking break cue. it had a 14mm tip and weighed 25ish oz. i want one bad but i can't seem to sell anything i'm offering in the wanted/sale forum so i can't afford it. i want to say it was fast_n_loose that has it

all that ultra light break cue stuff is BS.
 
pooltchr said:
This is not necessarily true. My break stroke is the same as my regular stroke. No body movement, no leg push, just Set Pause Finish.
As you suggested, the important part of the break is to have an efficient transfer of energy into the rack. Efficient is much more the result of accuracy than of power or speed.
Very few people are able to add leg kicks, body lunges, and whatever else to their stroke, and still maintain accuracy.

I would prefer an accurate break shot at 20 MPH over a wild break at 25MPH. The harder break may spread balls more sometimes, but without consistently hitting exactly where you need to on the rack, you don't know what to expect.

I don't like surprises in my pool game.

Steve
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I'd like to see a video of your break.
 
i find personally that the harder i try to break the less control i have. therefore i try to break at a medium speed with my playing cue and have found some sucess. i can even make a ball about 70% of the time in 9 ball. i play with a 19.5 by the way.
 
Historically, I have used a lighter cue for breaking than my playing cue.

I have stopped all my body movement on the break, and can control the cue ball much better than when I was more 'wild' with my body movement.

Now, I use my playing cue (around 19.5), keep my body as still as if I was pocketing a ball the length of the table. I use a very controlled back-swing and a fast follow through. I get a good spread of the balls for 8 and 9 ball. I am geting back to the roots of the game when you brought one cue and maybe a second shaft and you did all you needed to do with that one tool.

Back on topic:
I think fast is the key- the reason a lighter cue works is because you can accelerate it faster (and with needed control). Here's the physics everyone loves:

E = 1/2 m * (v*v) (Energy equals 1/2 mass times velocity squared)

Because of this, increasing the mass by 10% increases the energy slightly
Increasing the velocity by 10% increases the energy more significantly.

And to that I will add my favorite ad: "Power is nothing without control"

Finally I say use whatever works for you, but personally these max-weight cues are a bit crazy to me.
 
Excellent and accurate information! :thumbup:

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Cue Guru said:
Historically, I have used a lighter cue for breaking than my playing cue.

I have stopped all my body movement on the break, and can control the cue ball much better than when I was more 'wild' with my body movement.

Now, I use my playing cue (around 19.5), keep my body as still as if I was pocketing a ball the length of the table. I use a very controlled back-swing and a fast follow through. I get a good spread of the balls for 8 and 9 ball. I am geting back to the roots of the game when you brought one cue and maybe a second shaft and you did all you needed to do with that one tool.

Back on topic:
I think fast is the key- the reason a lighter cue works is because you can accelerate it faster (and with needed control). Here's the physics everyone loves:

E = 1/2 m * (v*v) (Energy equals 1/2 mass times velocity squared)

Because of this, increasing the mass by 10% increases the energy slightly
Increasing the velocity by 10% increases the energy more significantly.

And to that I will add my favorite ad: "Power is nothing without control"

Finally I say use whatever works for you, but personally these max-weight cues are a bit crazy to me.
Click to expand...
 
Majic said:
I am confused on what you are trying to say here.
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Light & Heavy are relative terms.

If you can swing a 26oz cue the same speed as a 16oz cue, then use the heavier cue. Most people can't do that.

One must find the correct weight that allows him his top speed with out losing the cue ball.

If a heavy cue broke better, I would be using a 35oz Mickey Mantle special.
SPF=randyg
 
randyg said:
... If you can swing a 26oz cue the same speed as a 16oz cue, then use the heavier cue. ... If a heavy cue broke better, I would be using a 35oz Mickey Mantle special.
SPF=randyg
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Under WPA, BCA, etc. equipment specifications, the maximum weight of a cue is 25 oz. There is no minimum weight requirement.
 
On the subject of break cues dose anybody have any opinion ont those iron wood break cues and where some one could accuire one
 
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