can you give opinions about BoB S.I 5minutes Epoxy?
BSI 5m Epoxy VS G5 Epoxy?
BSI 5m Epoxy VS G5 Epoxy?
Last edited:
Bsi 5m Epoxy
- Thread starter fiolledapool
- Start date
I use it all the time. Watch out, it sets up pretty fast when mixed correctly.
I wouldn't glue up anything on a cue with G5 or any other 5 minute epoxy, except maybe a ferrule. The only thing I use G5 for is to hold my Ivory Slabs to a board while I cut parts out of them.
I agree with Tony. I used to use G-5 but after some time I had a couple of deco-rings and a butt cap come loose and that's when I quit for much of anything other than a ferrule and sometimes inlays.
Dick
When you say sometimes inlays, does that mean you normally use a slow setting epoxy for inlays, but sometimes you use 5 minute? Perhaps when you need to cut a pocket inside an inlay and you want to cut the first pocket, glue in the inlay, then cut the pocket for the 2nd without changing setup?
Do most of the posters here use slow setting epoxy for inlays?
Kelly
I do (usually West 205). I don't use 5 minute for any inlays. To do the boxes for my newer ringwork, it takes me about 7 hours to make a sheet of them. I have to glue in the Ebony Dowels first and then go back in and cut the pockets for the silver dots. I don't wait as long on the Epoxy for the silver dots because I am then cutting the outside of the part. I used to try to cut them right out of the phenolic ring, meaning the center black part was phenolic. The trouble with that is if you make a mistake, you are already in the cue. By making sheets of them up ahead of time, if a piece looks bad, I throw it on the floor.
It took me all day to make the Amboyna bordered inlays for the Cambodian Rosewood cue I posted the other day.
For ferrules, I like Gorilla now.
I have used G5 5 minute epoxy, for over 20 years with no problems. I use it for everything, but tips & points. I allow one hour, before I do any machining...JER
Last edited:
I hate G5! It's too thick, and too quick. I always seem to screw something up when I try to use it. (Hydrolic or the piece freezes up on me before I'm ready.) :banghead: I also think it's a terrible choice for coring. However, I did learn the other day that it can be mixed with 105-205/207 to thin it as well as slow it down. I will definitely try that the next time I need to use it. I have never used the other product.
Mr H
Mr H
Last edited:
I used the G5 on a joint pin ONE TIME! NEVER AGAIN! I do use the other 5 min you have pictured without any problems. I use West System 105 -205 on about 95% of everything I glue up! Good stuff!!can you give opinions about BoB S.I 5minutes Epoxy?
BSI 5m Epoxy VS G5 Epoxy?
Stick it in the micro for 10 seconds ( low temp ) or blowtorch it real carefully.
not a cuemaker-sometimes add 2 cents-opinon
I've seen it used for fishing rods as well as a finish on a cue. There trick was keep it warm with a light bulb constantly-Keeping it thin and workable. both hardener and resin. I personally think it is a short cut, not a good finish- A sign of worse thinks to come--- mark
I've seen it used for fishing rods as well as a finish on a cue. There trick was keep it warm with a light bulb constantly-Keeping it thin and workable. both hardener and resin. I personally think it is a short cut, not a good finish- A sign of worse thinks to come--- mark
I agree. Epoxy is great for wood but you have to be able to do a "wet out" when using epoxy on wood and this can only be done with a slow drying formula. You need it to soak in and create a good bridge. Done correctly it will last indefinitely and like guys who built Ultralites, you can trust your life to it. The cue is meant to last a life time, there is no need to rush any process. 5 minute epoxy does not need to be near any wood project, cue, bow, boat, what ever.
I forgot about joint pins. I do use it on those but I only use a very small amount and I use radial pins that have a glue relief so it doesn't hydraulic the forearm. When using another type of pin I always grind a notch on the back so that the pin acts as a tap on the back of the threaded hole and a lock once the pin is glued in place. I grind this notch just prior to installation so the pin is hot and thins the G-5 quite a bit.
At one time I was saving money and bought some after market radial pins that were not correctly made and they had no relief on the back threads and I ended up splitting the forearms of 2 cues. Care must definitely be used with it's use.
Dick
I used the G5 on one particular cue to glue the pin in it. It come loose! That is why I dont use it. I glued the pin back in with my regular glue I use that is when it hydraulic threw the forearm. I did refinish that cue and I am still playing with today! I do now cut a glue relief on all my pins now before I install them!!!
There being many types of glue to use so if I had a bad experience as you did I also would be checking out something different. I don't know what pin that you use but the thicker the glue, the more clearance that has to be maintained and the more care during assembly.
Actually, a crack caused by hydraulic action with epoxy should not weaken the cue what-so-ever as the same action that caused the crack also forces the epoxy into every nook and cranny probably making it stronger than before. It's usually pretty hard to convince a customer of this fact however.
Dick :smile:
Dick:
I use a radial joint pin. I had no chance of the customer taking this cue. Which turns out good for me. Now I have a cue to play with.
i do the same dickie, grind back of pin
also i heat up the epoxy/hardener with a blow dryer BEFORE mixing
forget about heating it after mixing, no time for that
one day i must have had my head up my hiney and installed a 3/8x10 stainless pin by mistake, was supposed to be a G10 3/8x10
it was only about 15 minutes after gluing pin, i realized my screwup
i figured i could get the pin out easily with channel locks
NOT!!!
took cue out, chucked up onto the pin, still couldnt get it to budge
ended up having to heat the pin to remove it
G5
I totally agree. And yes, it works better when warmed up a bit and if you use for pin installation you must have glue relief. Lee Malakoff sold me a LockTite two part epoxy for joint pins that works in extreme (space schuttel environment) temperatures. He told me Paul Mottey has been using it for years. It has the viscosity of light oil and unlike G5, it wipes off very easy if you get some on the pin. It takes 24 to 36 hours to completely cure.
I am now using it and don't know the long term play. I figure if Mr. Mottey is using it for years, I will take a chance thats it's A-OK.
Rick Geschrey
I totally agree. And yes, it works better when warmed up a bit and if you use for pin installation you must have glue relief. Lee Malakoff sold me a LockTite two part epoxy for joint pins that works in extreme (space schuttel environment) temperatures. He told me Paul Mottey has been using it for years. It has the viscosity of light oil and unlike G5, it wipes off very easy if you get some on the pin. It takes 24 to 36 hours to completely cure.
I am now using it and don't know the long term play. I figure if Mr. Mottey is using it for years, I will take a chance thats it's A-OK.
Rick Geschrey
Last edited:
For the A-joint too?