BUTCHERS WAX for SHAFTS

[DeepBanks]

Gooooooood Stuff . . .

I've been using Butcher's wax for years on all types of shafts and have never had any problems with it. Applied and buffed correctly, it doesn't "gum up" over time as other shaft waxes have done for me.

And not to knock the source that most people are quoting as to the recommendation of this product, but the reason I gave it a try is that somewhere on the internet years ago, someone said that some oldschool cuemaker named Gus used this stuff back in the day. I figured if it was good enough for him, I'd give it a try.

A can will last you FOREVER, so pick one up and you're set for life!

I've used it for about a year now (thanks to the knowledgeable people on this forum) and it is the NUTZ! It doesn't discolor or yellow either . . . the trick is doing it multiple times on the lathe . . . clean it . . . sand it . . . apply it - buff - burnish and then apply - buff - burnish . . . again and again . . . after 4 or 5 initial "treatments" it will give even blue chalk a challenge - very smooth and seals the shaft.

I usually wash my hands before I play, use gray chalk and do the "wax" process every couple of weeks now and my shafts play AND LOOK like they're new. I dig it!

 

[Solartje]

i just got a question, eventhough im using the bowling wax for some time now.

Whats the difference between : to buff and to polish?
(im not native english speaking)
I have tried to search on google pictures and i get the same machines... is it the same thing? or?...

 

[JimS]

i just got a question, eventhough im using the bowling wax for some time now.

Whats the difference between : to buff and to polish?
(im not native english speaking)
I have tried to search on google pictures and i get the same machines... is it the same thing? or?...

There is no difference between buffing and polishing. The terms are interchangable. They mean the same thing. Buffing might be meant to mean a little finer polishing but for all practical purposes they are the same thing.

Nice statistics you are carrying. Congratulations. You play well. :groucho:

 

[thegloworm]

Bought some the other day.
I put it on my Gilbert JB by hand and it feels ok. Not super slick though.

I had my local pool room owner use it on his lathe.
He has applied a couple of coats and says it is not as slick as he thought it would be.

Is this the pattern:

Clean shaft
apply wax
Let dry or not?
buff with clean cloth
Burnish with leather

Do it again.

 

[dmgwalsh]

Hey...

You can get a threaded pin to match your cue threads or the easy way, imo, is to use a crutch tip. I like the one in the right column, 5th down #UW203500. http://www.unitedwheelchairs.com/Crutch_cane_accessories.html?gclid=CNH0-MeVxpgCFR0Sagodkiza2A
They should be available at most any drug store. Get one that fits a 7/8" crutch tip and is fairly long... like the one shown. Others are shorter... not so good.

You drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the crutch tip, as close to center as possible but it doesn't have to be exact, I eye-balled mine. Then put a 1/4" bolt about 1 1/2" long through the hole with a 3/4" flat washer on the inside and the outside, then a nut, maybe double nut, on the outside. That's all there is to it. Put the bolt in the jaws of the drill and spin away! I use a bunjee cord to tie my drill to a 1x6 about 3 or 4 ft long.

The crutch tip holds the shaft just fine and you can steady the other end just laying the shaft on a folded towel or simply hold it with one hand, which I usually do. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight/level/plumb as it will adjust itself in the rubber crutch tip. I've been using one for several years now on every cue I've had, SW's, Sailors, Predators..everything and it works great for doing tips, cleaning/polishing shafts.


I use a clamp like this to adjust the speed of the drill. http://www.tylertool.com/amtool5112cl.html

There are small and cheaper ones available.. this is just one I found as an example of a clamp that will hold the tool trigger and allow easy adjustment to a higher speed.

Thanks for the instructions, Jim. I got the crutch thing and everything works just fine. nice to get that shaft turning fast.:thumbup:

 

[knoxpossum]

I used the magic eraser and a high quality paste wax on an old (very blue) Huebler shaft a few months ago and it came out great.

 

[Hal]

My Bluegrass shafts are hands down the slickest and best feeling of any cue I've ever owned. They don't appear to be coated with anything. I'd like to know what he does to make them feel this way.

I would never put any kind of wax on my shafts. But that's just me.

 

[Snapshot9]

Wax?

My cuemaker told me to never use anything on a shaft, but a wood polisher.

 

[chin0]

I admit, I didn't read the whole thread :embarrassed2: but I see some has said use a lathe to wax your cue. I just recently got a jar of Chem Pak Q Wax, hasn't used it yet, but how would I go about apply the wax on my shaft?

I have never put wax on my shaft before, so what is the procedure and precautionaries I would have to take? Could I do this without a lathe?

Thanks

Happy Shooting!
Chino

 

[JimS]

Just apply it by hand... wipe some on. Wait a few minutes for it to dry. Then buff it with a towel. You can also burnish it with a towel and get it slicker by holding the towel tightly around the shaft while stroking the shaft up and down. The shaft (and the towel) will get hot and this will help to make the shaft slicker. The Q Wax works great.

I"ve stopped using anything on my shafts.. except some alcohol to clean and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean when they get chalk embedded... which they will no matter what you put on them.

I just smooth with 1000 or finer, then burnish with leather.

Every wax or shaft slickening chemical I've use... and I've used every one on the market, every one leaves the shaft feeling sticky at some point down the road.

A clean, highly burnished shaft will be as slick as any.

 

[JimS]

Thanks for the instructions, Jim. I got the crutch thing and everything works just fine. nice to get that shaft turning fast.:thumbup:

YEAH! Ain't it fun!! The crutch tip thing works great for simply spinning a shaft.

 

[snipershot]

Ive got a question, will using this wax help fill in any dings or nicks it the shaft, or will they still be very noticable?

 

[chin0]

Just apply it by hand... wipe some on. Wait a few minutes for it to dry. Then buff it with a towel. You can also burnish it with a towel and get it slicker by holding the towel tightly around the shaft while stroking the shaft up and down. The shaft (and the towel) will get hot and this will help to make the shaft slicker. The Q Wax works great.

I"ve stopped using anything on my shafts.. except some alcohol to clean and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean when they get chalk embedded... which they will no matter what you put on them.

I just smooth with 1000 or finer, then burnish with leather.

Every wax or shaft slickening chemical I've use... and I've used every one on the market, every one leaves the shaft feeling sticky at some point down the road.

A clean, highly burnished shaft will be as slick as any.

Thanks for the reply, I will print it out and go try it later this week when I have time. :thumbup:

Another question, if it gets sticky and lumpy, what do I do if I decide to get the wax off and not use wax again? Just clean it with ME and smooth and burnish? Thanks for the help!

Happy shooting!

Chino

 

[Ken_4fun]

Ive got a question, will using this wax help fill in any dings or nicks it the shaft, or will they still be very noticable?

Nope nothing for the dings in your shaft.

LOL Seek a professional for help.....

Damn I really enjoyed saying that.

Ken

 

[DogsPlayingPool]

Ive got a question, will using this wax help fill in any dings or nicks it the shaft, or will they still be very noticable?

For dings, check out this thread. I think I've got one of the last posts on it as I recently removed a couple of dings out of my shaft. My procedure worked perfectly and is not intrusive at all (i.e. no sanding or taking a steam iron or shot glass to the shaft):


http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?p=1615730#post1615730

Let me know how it works out for you. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Hope this helps.

DPP

 

[JimS]

Thanks for the reply, I will print it out and go try it later this week when I have time. :thumbup:

Another question, if it gets sticky and lumpy, what do I do if I decide to get the wax off and not use wax again? Just clean it with ME and smooth and burnish? Thanks for the help!

Happy shooting!

Chino

Get some denatured alcohol where they sell paint. It's cheap and it cleans stuff really well. It will cut through most sticky stuff like wax.

 

[Shaft]

Ace may soon no longer restock BAW in their warehouse

Ace Hardware ordered my can for me; $12 including tax.

When I picked it up yesterday, the local Ace people told me that when the warehouse sells the last can, they will be ordering no more BAW for the warehouse. They saw some notation on their computer that said this.

I suppose you can still get it from Butcher's, but it will be more expensive when you pay for shipping.

 

[sharpq]

Very innovative, I too, am going to give this a whirl! Thanks, Jim

Hey...

You can get a threaded pin to match your cue threads or the easy way, imo, is to use a crutch tip. I like the one in the right column, 5th down #UW203500. http://www.unitedwheelchairs.com/Crutch_cane_accessories.html?gclid=CNH0-MeVxpgCFR0Sagodkiza2A
They should be available at most any drug store. Get one that fits a 7/8" crutch tip and is fairly long... like the one shown. Others are shorter... not so good.

You drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the crutch tip, as close to center as possible but it doesn't have to be exact, I eye-balled mine. Then put a 1/4" bolt about 1 1/2" long through the hole with a 3/4" flat washer on the inside and the outside, then a nut, maybe double nut, on the outside. That's all there is to it. Put the bolt in the jaws of the drill and spin away! I use a bunjee cord to tie my drill to a 1x6 about 3 or 4 ft long.

The crutch tip holds the shaft just fine and you can steady the other end just laying the shaft on a folded towel or simply hold it with one hand, which I usually do. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight/level/plumb as it will adjust itself in the rubber crutch tip. I've been using one for several years now on every cue I've had, SW's, Sailors, Predators..everything and it works great for doing tips, cleaning/polishing shafts.


I use a clamp like this to adjust the speed of the drill. http://www.tylertool.com/amtool5112cl.html

There are small and cheaper ones available.. this is just one I found as an example of a clamp that will hold the tool trigger and allow easy adjustment to a higher speed.

 

[chevybob20]

Ace Hardware ordered my can for me; $12 including tax.

When I picked it up yesterday, the local Ace people told me that when the warehouse sells the last can, they will be ordering no more BAW for the warehouse. They saw some notation on their computer that said this.

I suppose you can still get it from Butcher's, but it will be more expensive when you pay for shipping.

You're right. It will cost near $20 with shipping.

 

[Pii]

Where could you purchase them wax???

Thanks.

Just about any hardware store. I got mine at ACE