Calculating Multi Rail position shots

clarkie39

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Hello everyone, I've seen some different threads regarding calculating multi (2-3) rail shots. Just curious if any one has a system to determine where on the first rail the cueball needs to hit into the cushion for it to rebound off of the 3 cushion or 2nd cushion to get position for a multi rail position shot. Just to be clear this question isn't about speed or english it's about caculating the cueball position into the first rail.

Thanks again
 
Position systems really only work from perfect locations. You set the balls up in a certain spot and things work, move the cueball and object ball and now all of a sudden, the system is just a reference. I think it's best to learn the basic routes and how to adjust.
 
Learning kicking or banking systems can help provide a reference for the route the cue ball takes and help build or enhance your feel. No substitute though for practice and just batting the cue ball around the table from various positions using different speeds and english and see what happens.

If you are interested in some systems for 2 and 3 rail kicks, which would help with predicting the cue ball path, check out my website at mypoolblog.com.

Scott
 
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I understand you probably don't want to hear it but there isnt really a way to tell you exactly where on the rail to hit in order to get it to somewhere after more than one rail.

The path of the cueball off 1 rail is changed by the english put on it. Once it hits the second rail it changes again but how much it changes and how it changes overall is based off of the english you put on it for the first rail.

Then theres also the fact that no two tables will be the same where 3 rail banks are concerned.

So a system? Prolly not but practice makes almost kind of repeatable efforts (instead of perfect).
 
What zpele said is true.

I don't know if this will help you but the first thing you need to do is see where the ball will go coming of the natural tangent line of the cut shot. Once you see that you can make a decison if it's good as is or if you need or want to modify it. If so, you then need to decide how. Will hitting high or low alone change the angle enough or do you need to put a lttle running or holding english to it too.

Like zpele said, I know of no system. Just go for them & watch & learn.

Hope this helps a bit.

Regards to You &
 
Diamond is the key ..

How do 3 cushion players play without a system?

Are you trying to say that 3 cushion players DO NOT use a system ?
Diamond system is one of the fundamental systems to play 3 cushion. A lot of 3 cushion players use it.
 
How do 3 cushion players play without a system?
Some play by feel. Raymond Ceulemans has said that he won his first world 3-cushion championship without using any systems. of course he grew up playing straight rail and balkline so he pretty much knew every square millimeter of the table by heart. He later published a book on diamond systems.

As for the OP's question, if you want an accurate, coherent explanation of diamond systems, get Robert Byrne's books on pool and billiards. Then practice a lot.
 
The best 3C player in the area seems to average a point every other shot (which is pretty sporty) and basically says forget systems. They're ok to get the basic path you're looking for, but once you've decided which rails to hit in which order, the rest is judgement and feel because every table plays differently. Cloth, level of heat, cleanliness of equipment, springiness of rails, amount of spin, deflection and so on...

I think this video might be what you're looking for. This is a GREAT little shortcut for figuring out the 2 rail ending point for a corner pocket cut shot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOajow_tSds
 
Diamond system is one of the fundamental systems to play 3 cushion. A lot of 3 cushion players use it.

Agree with this. the Diamond system works well but requires a consistent stroke, consistent speed and consistent English. It's a good enough guide for many pool 2 and 3 rail banks.
 
Learning a diamond system gets you started.
Playing a system for 100,000 shots burns it into your brain.

After this, you still have to compensate for:
a) the spin you put on the CB
b) the rails of the praticular table
c) the speed of the cloth.
 
I don't think I've ever seen a pool player in my life count diamonds for cb position. (I have seen of course for kicks). In 3c I've seen players who use systems exclusively and others who rarely if ever use them.

I find for pool, new cloth has a big affect on a shot where you go two rails out of the corner and hit the third long rail. On a worn cloth, the CB seems to go very short off that third rail. On new pool cloth, the CB goes long off that third rail, similar to how it would on a 3C table.

I like finding subtleties like these. Makes the game more surprising:)
 
Are you trying to say that 3 cushion players DO NOT use a system ?
Diamond system is one of the fundamental systems to play 3 cushion. A lot of 3 cushion players use it.

No, I'm not saying that at all! In fact, just the opposite. :wink:
 
Some play by feel. Raymond Ceulemans has said that he won his first world 3-cushion championship without using any systems. of course he grew up playing straight rail and balkline so he pretty much knew every square millimeter of the table by heart. He later published a book on diamond systems.

As for the OP's question, if you want an accurate, coherent explanation of diamond systems, get Robert Byrne's books on pool and billiards. Then practice a lot.

Once again, Mr Jewett is being too modest.:)

Byrne's books are well worth having and contain a wealth of information,
but, who reads books anymore?

http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Jewett4.htm#Oct05

will take you to Bob Jewett's article about the most commonly
used diamond system for 3C. This will be more than enough to get you
started.

A quick Googling of "3 Cushion Billiards Diamond System" yeilds several
videos of real life.

My humble suggestion:

Start with what I call the "one pocket kick".

If you place the CB hung up in a foot pocket, shoot at aprox the second
diamond on the opposite long rail, you should scratch in the other foot
pocket.

This is the basic corner-to-corner kick. Once mastered, it is a good basic
foundation to learn all the possible paths.

A few have pointed out that this is theory - and the real world will be more
complicated. True enough, but that is the case with any system.

It will take time and lots of practice to develop consistent skill -
IMHO - well worth it.

Dale
 
I learned several good systems from Robert Byrne's books back in the day. Systems are not perfect, and tend to break down when at the extremes, and on certain tables just plain don't work right without adjustments. But they are a great checkpoint and companion to feel.

I was just giving a clinic last week on kicking systems, at the end I went over the Corner 5 3-rail system, explained the basics and some of the adjustments. I also reinforced that it would be confusing until they worked with it, and to be prepared to spend 30 - 60 seconds over the shot to get the numbers and lines right. But after some practice, it's very quick and becomes part of your game at an almost subconscious level. I proved this by cutting a ball backward in the corner pocket and going 3 rails to make a ball in the corner, without spending any appreciable time looking at it.

There's many places with system information on the internet, I created some articles several years ago for pool players based on my experiences and interpretations from playing 3-cushion for years, you can find them all at pooltime.weebly.com.

Scott
 
Search for a guy who can teach you corner 5 and the *plus2* system.
These 2 systems will help u a lot.

Gesendet von meinem GT-I9100 mit Tapatalk 2
 
Sometimes, our brains ( let me rephrase) sometimes my brain reaches overload and something simple like I "think" what you're asking can be helpful.

At the risk of being way off base on what you are asking, here is something so simple even I can remember it. :)

Whenever we send the CB around multiple rails, we obviously do it in either a clockwise or counter clockwise direction. So, just remember this.

I'm speaking of adjacent pockets on the table now ... depending of course on direction of CB travel.

If the CB hits the first rail near a pocket, it hits the next rail far from the adjacent pocket, then close to the next one and far from the next.

If the CB hits the first rail far from the pocket, then it hits the next rail near the pocket .. .and so on and so on.

If the CB hits the first rail near the middle and not closer to either pocket, then it hits the next rail near the middle also.

Now before anyone goes picking this apart, it is no more than a simple guideline that will vary of course with angle and english to some degree.

It's merely a simple thing to keep in the back of your mind when planning multiple rail CB hits.

Is that what you meant?
 
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