What is the difference in playabilty or durability when dealing with capped ferrules versus ferrules drilled all the way through? It seems most custom makers use capped ferrules, is this correct?
Would you be concerned with using Ivorine 4 non-capped?masonh said:it seems like most use capped ferrules and i think most do it for strength.maybe some like the hit better,but i have always liked the hit of cues where the tenon goes through to the tip.
i am sure this will insight much debate,but i like the fell muche better of a teneon through ferrule over a capped ferrule.
also the materila i use is plenty strong to use it wihtout a cap.it is even strong enough for break cues.i think LBM is strong enough also for playing cues.
if you look at some of the well know "great playing" cues lots are uncapped.
Southwest and Sugartree and Searing to name a few.i haven't had a Searing since the late 90's,but i used to get some Searing players form AQ4U and they were uncapped.i used to get them for like $650,man i wish i kept them all.
I wouldn't.hoosier_cues said:Would you be concerned with using Ivorine 4 non-capped?
hoosier_cues said:What is the difference in playabilty or durability when dealing with capped ferrules versus ferrules drilled all the way through? It seems most custom makers use capped ferrules, is this correct?
i gotta askArnot Wadsworth said:In my opinion the only reason to use a capped ferrule is that they are fast to install. The threads hold the ferrule in place so it can be machined immediately without waiting for the epoxy to cure.
I personally do not like the way they hit.
BTW - there is a void between the end of the tenon and the back of the cap. I know it is supposedly filled with glue but I still don't like it and consider using capped ferrules a "short cut" to building a good cue.
Good Cuemaking,
BHQ said:i gotta ask
what about threaded ferrules with the cap cut off????![]()
qbilder said:That's horrible idea. Who'd have ever thought that one up?![]()
When I do a capped ferrule I make the tenon long and trim it down until it just threads on all the way. Thus no gap and I like the way threaded and sleeved ferrules play, it just depends on my mood.Arnot Wadsworth said:In my opinion the only reason to use a capped ferrule is that they are fast to install. The threads hold the ferrule in place so it can be machined immediately without waiting for the epoxy to cure.
I personally do not like the way they hit.
BTW - there is a void between the end of the tenon and the back of the cap. I know it is supposedly filled with glue but I still don't like it and consider using capped ferrules a "short cut" to building a good cue.
Good Cuemaking,
In my opinion the only reason to use a capped ferrule is that they are fast to install. The threads hold the ferrule in place so it can be machined immediately without waiting for the epoxy to cure.
I don't know if being threaded makes them easier to install.masonh said:my ferrules are not capped and i can machine them instantly.i just put them on threaded with a little titebond and start cutting to size instantly.
Mcdermott cues I think are half threaded on it's been awhile since I have seen one.BHQ said:i gotta ask
what about threaded ferrules with the cap cut off????![]()
Yes, they just thread the top.n10spool said:Mcdermott cues I think are half threaded on it's been awhile since I have seen one.
I am assuming he means a straight tennon and glued on, as oposed to threaded.masonh said:what is press fit?
A specificty designed interference fit... Specific meaning holding an exact size or caculated "interference" between the two mating pieces that are to be pressed one into the other..usually to provide holding with out adhesives. Too much interference will cause undue stress when pressing in or on the piece, too little might not securely hold the piece during temperture changes (different expansion and cortraction rates of different materials).masonh said:what is press fit?