What? Did I go write?!
Chris Reinhold "Frozen ball goes in easier with thicker hit?"
- Thread starter FeelDaShot
- Start date
In the room where I grew up (St. Louis Schmitt tables, wide pockets with a clean drop, mud balls, old cushions, worn/nappy cloth with visible rail-tracks), a frozen 45 degree cut down the rail was always a ‘slam-dunk’. Hit the cushion first with inside english, and you couldn’t miss!
Had to forget that technique though when I moved on to more modern equipment, since it never seemed to work anywhere else (go figure).
The key is always to hit the CB and the OB perfectly. That s always the problem. The advice "there is no rail" is not so bad. What is really critical is the speed. If you shoot with too slow speed you ll always force the OB to run into the rail. I would say that missing such shots is extemly often cause by just hittin the CB without any unintended english.
Imo to practice these shots the right way, you should always try to shoot the OB clean into the pocket- without any english and with a good pocket speed.
Imo to practice these shots the right way, you should always try to shoot the OB clean into the pocket- without any english and with a good pocket speed.
I think the key is to have your explanation proofread and notarized.
If you don't use plenty of outside english (reverse on the cushion) you have to hit the rail first. That's true whether you visualize it that way or not. If you use great steaming gobs of outside spin, you can actually hit the object ball first and get it to go in. See Koehler. See Byrne. See Dr. Dave. Just don't pay any attention to Mosconi's book, which has it all wrong.
And like several above, I like Steve Mizerak's advice which is to ignore the cushion and just shoot the ball to the target.
And like several above, I like Steve Mizerak's advice which is to ignore the cushion and just shoot the ball to the target.
Thank you for this. The absolute easiest way to make a ball on the rail is to use inside english, which makes the object ball hug the rail going toward the pocket. You aim just a hair behind the object ball (the back of the ball) on the rail. You want to make a very thin hit on the cue ball. Once you learn this shot, you will never miss a ball down the rail again! Of course, hitting the object ball this way you cannot draw the cue ball back up the table, unless you have a very powerful stroke and can make the cue ball reverse when it hits the second rail across the table (for advanced players only). Hitting it "thicker" just means hitting a full ball so you can get maximum draw on the cue ball. Here you are aiming solely at the cut shot on the object ball as if the rail was not there. This is a more difficult shot than cinching the ball with inside english.
One other thing. The second shot Chris demonstrates here is not a "wing" shot! It is a "spot" shot though. I'm not sure how he confused these two well known pool terms but he did.
Thanks Jay. I've got to be honest, I've never heard the term wing shot before. What is it?
I think it's where you roll a ball towards the spot and fire it in while the object ball is in motion near the spot.
Like a moving spot shot.
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Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
To each his own, my fine sir! To each his own.
Earl shooting wing shots-
This is an excellent explanation. I found this out by hitting this shot 5,000 times and could not believe this was happening. Now I know why. Many, many, many thanks. Now on to my next problem shot.
Yes, overcutting slightly for contact-induced throw, like the rail isn't there, results in a slightly rail-first hit.
pj
chgo
There you go.
But, then read Jay Helfert's advice which suggests using the opposite spin: hitting inside english will result in the OB having the opposite of running english when it hits the pocket facing.
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Any time you're coming across a ball/cutting it in (a swiping action).... that 'swipe' naturally causes the obj. ball to rotate, unless you introduce spin on the CB with outiside. But your then mixing the two obj. ball reactions, makeing the shot way more difficult, and at high speeds, impossible to pocket with small pockets/humidity and dirt.
There's a pretty easy way to add just the right amount of outside spin so that it "gears" perfectly across the OB's surface - visualize the CB's point that's directly opposite the CB/OB contact point at contact, then offset your tip 2/5 of that distance.
pj
chgo
I wish it was that simple to me, but it's not. Maybe at slow speeds with the pocket close.... till play conditions change.
Here's a thought about two different balls with different colors.
I've not heard another mention this, but as we all know, Black absorbs more heat from the sun than white.
When I'm using extreme 3 o'clock cueing or 9 o'clock cueing, shooting worn/dirty balls, the darker ball contact point if it's the same as lets say the 1 ball, the grab/gearing is more with the darker, porous ball.
But as you know, you must change your walk up too the shot, and adjust that to speed of hit and other factors that change/ever so slightly the contact point on the obj. ball. Especially with outside cueing/squirt.
Here's a thought about two different balls with different colors.
I've not heard another mention this, but as we all know, Black absorbs more heat from the sun than white.
When I'm using extreme 3 o'clock cueing or 9 o'clock cueing, shooting worn/dirty balls, the darker ball contact point if it's the same as lets say the 1 ball, the grab/gearing is more with the darker, porous ball.
But as you know, you must change your walk up too the shot, and adjust that to speed of hit and other factors that change/ever so slightly the contact point on the obj. ball. Especially with outside cueing/squirt.
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Is there a diagram illustrating this 2/5 offset technique? Possibly on Dr. Dave's site?
Thanks!