Cored Pool Cues

9Ballr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is it a negative in anyway if a cue was cored when it was made?
Hit, longevity, warping etc...

I suppose most makers do it to keep the weight down.
I wanted to know because I'm being offered an ebony cue that
weights 19 oz and was cored.

Thanks
 
Is it a negative in anyway if a cue was cored when it was made?
Hit, longevity, warping etc...

I suppose most makers do it to keep the weight down.
I wanted to know because I'm being offered an ebony cue that
weights 19 oz and was cored.

Thanks

Time tested method of getting balance and weight you want without other compromises. Nice way to get the look you want without having something back heavy or just too heavy. I also like some forearms that are cored to achieve a certain stiffness.
 
Coring is a personal preference. In my opinion it depends on the type of joint as well? Plus, what it is cored with???

Ebony is very dense and a much firmer/stiffer hit!
Ebony cored is not as dense but much firmer then maple alone!

Slap a metal joint on it and the only difference is weight!
Slap a wood to wood joint on it then difference is noticeable!

Can't forget Tip/ Taper/ & Ferrule

Finding the correct combination of all of these is why it takes years of experimenting an research an trial an error to fine tune your equipment and game. Coming on here will help but you still have to put the work in. The perfect cue combination of weight, balance , tip, taper and ferrule are not going to fall out the sky. If you like the cue and it is the right one then go for it!

KD
 
Coring is a personal preference. In my opinion it depends on the type of joint as well? Plus, what it is cored with???

Ebony is very dense and a much firmer/stiffer hit!
Ebony cored is not as dense but much firmer then maple alone!

Slap a metal joint on it and the only difference is weight!
Slap a wood to wood joint on it then difference is noticeable!

Can't forget Tip/ Taper/ & Ferrule

Finding the correct combination of all of these is why it takes years of experimenting an research an trial an error to fine tune your equipment and game. Coming on here will help but you still have to put the work in. The perfect cue combination of weight, balance , tip, taper and ferrule are not going to fall out the sky. If you like the cue and it is the right one then go for it!

KD

Coring also helps keep certain woods prone to warping from doing so. Some woods are cored with other wood of about the same weight for this reason alone. There are some really gorgeous woods that would not be suitable for cues without coring. Olive wood comes to mind. Zebra wood is another.

What KD said, if you like the looks and like the hit, coring won't be a negative in any way. It only helps.
 
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Negative? Can't imagine why. Unless it were done poorly or incorrectly.

In general it is a more advanced construction technique.
 
Is it a negative in anyway if a cue was cored when it was made?
Hit, longevity, warping etc...

I suppose most makers do it to keep the weight down.
I wanted to know because I'm being offered an ebony cue that
weights 19 oz and was cored.

Thanks

It works well in many regards. It helps resist warpage and helps controls weight and stability in exotic woods. Many of the cores are sophisticated laminated construction. It's a benefit in my book.
 
How do you do a full splice cored cue ?


Hi Mike
I do this. Gun drill...dial indicator is your friend here. I can do a one piece core, I also do a core with a splice in it. There are a few reasons I do this sometimes. Sneaky pete blanks...one piece butts...etc.etc.
 
Cored Ebony

Lucky enough to have one of both, both have wood to wood joints and G10 pins. The solid Ebony is def heavier and when stopping the cue w accuracy its top notch even on long shots just effortless. The lighter cored Ebony seems to draw the ball very well especially for distance. Will never part w the solid Ebony as I've been told it's extremely hard to get the weight and playability just right and not a lot of cue makers are doing solid Ebony as the price has gone up. Most cues I see today are cored and have no issues as its easier to control the weight distribution, quality is quality and you know what a cue feels like to you and really that's what matters.
 
Lucky enough to have one of both, both have wood to wood joints and G10 pins. The solid Ebony is def heavier and when stopping the cue w accuracy its top notch even on long shots just effortless. The lighter cored Ebony seems to draw the ball very well especially for distance. Will never part w the solid Ebony as I've been told it's extremely hard to get the weight and playability just right and not a lot of cue makers are doing solid Ebony as the price has gone up. Most cues I see today are cored and have no issues as its easier to control the weight distribution, quality is quality and you know what a cue feels like to you and really that's what matters.

The price for Ebony wouldn't change - you still start with a solid piece and then core it, you are actually throwing Ebony away by coring it.
Jason
 
I like the way Dan Janes puts it: the most expensive piece of wood in his shop. The core:

Core-frontrear-610x189.jpg
 
I like the way Dan Janes puts it: the most expensive piece of wood in his shop. The core:

Core-frontrear-610x189.jpg

Most expensive would be Brazilian rosewood or pernambuco. 😇
Bloodwood is another one.
But, maple is a good choice to lighten a dense forearm.

I lik that stepped core. Imo they hit better as they bottom out on the forearm sleeve. First one I saw was with Bob Flynn.
I've doing them close to the one on the pic since.
No metal threads like those too.
Hit better and eliminates the metal buzz risk.
 
Making cues different

The same way you core a forearm or a handle. Put the full spliced blank in your lathe, set up the gun drill, make chips, glue in coring dowel.

What size dowel or size of hole or gun drill are you using ?
How deep are you coring ?

I have never cored a cue ...
I just started to make cues and really wasn't planning on coring them .
Suspect I make my cues differently and at this time have only made a few plain jane maple cues.

I can understand the weight ...heavy woods , but I am assuming that there are ways to make a un cored 19 oz ebony full splice cue ?
 
What size dowel or size of hole or gun drill are you using ?
How deep are you coring ?

I have never cored a cue ...
I just started to make cues and really wasn't planning on coring them .
Suspect I make my cues differently and at this time have only made a few plain jane maple cues.

I can understand the weight ...heavy woods , but I am assuming that there are ways to make a un cored 19 oz ebony full splice cue ?

This butt alone would have been about 18.5oz. Uncored.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=414975&highlight=Vigus

Larry
 
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