Is it a negative in anyway if a cue was cored when it was made?
Hit, longevity, warping etc...
I suppose most makers do it to keep the weight down.
I wanted to know because I'm being offered an ebony cue that
weights 19 oz and was cored.
Thanks
Coring is a personal preference. In my opinion it depends on the type of joint as well? Plus, what it is cored with???
Ebony is very dense and a much firmer/stiffer hit!
Ebony cored is not as dense but much firmer then maple alone!
Slap a metal joint on it and the only difference is weight!
Slap a wood to wood joint on it then difference is noticeable!
Can't forget Tip/ Taper/ & Ferrule
Finding the correct combination of all of these is why it takes years of experimenting an research an trial an error to fine tune your equipment and game. Coming on here will help but you still have to put the work in. The perfect cue combination of weight, balance , tip, taper and ferrule are not going to fall out the sky. If you like the cue and it is the right one then go for it!
KD
Is it a negative in anyway if a cue was cored when it was made?
Hit, longevity, warping etc...
I suppose most makers do it to keep the weight down.
I wanted to know because I'm being offered an ebony cue that
weights 19 oz and was cored.
Thanks
How do you do a full splice cored cue ?
How do you do a full splice cored cue ?
How do you do a full splice cored cue ?
How do you do a full splice cored cue ?
Lucky enough to have one of both, both have wood to wood joints and G10 pins. The solid Ebony is def heavier and when stopping the cue w accuracy its top notch even on long shots just effortless. The lighter cored Ebony seems to draw the ball very well especially for distance. Will never part w the solid Ebony as I've been told it's extremely hard to get the weight and playability just right and not a lot of cue makers are doing solid Ebony as the price has gone up. Most cues I see today are cored and have no issues as its easier to control the weight distribution, quality is quality and you know what a cue feels like to you and really that's what matters.
The price for Ebony wouldn't change - you still start with a solid piece and then core it, you are actually throwing Ebony away by coring it.
Jason
I like the way Dan Janes puts it: the most expensive piece of wood in his shop. The core:
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The same way you core a forearm or a handle. Put the full spliced blank in your lathe, set up the gun drill, make chips, glue in coring dowel.
What size dowel or size of hole or gun drill are you using ?
How deep are you coring ?
I have never cored a cue ...
I just started to make cues and really wasn't planning on coring them .
Suspect I make my cues differently and at this time have only made a few plain jane maple cues.
I can understand the weight ...heavy woods , but I am assuming that there are ways to make a un cored 19 oz ebony full splice cue ?
Most expensive would be Brazilian rosewood or pernambuco.![]()
This butt alone would have been about 18.5oz. Uncored.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=414975&highlight=Vigus
Larry