coring & gluing

BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
i just got a gundrill :thumbup: , .750 x 18" actual cutting depth
i did a search on all the previous coring threads

aside from the differences in opinions on what glue to use ,
what i did not see discussed , maybe i missed it, is.......................
anyone mention how much clearance is acceptable for the dowel

i'm going with a .744 dowel with 2 or 3 glue relief cuts the length of the dowel and 1/16th slots cut .010" deep every .750" or so

another issue that was asked in those threads was about the glue settling to the bottom
with the thin 20 minute epoxies , that is a concern to me
so, yesterday i glued two up, and left each one spinning on the lathe for about 15 minutes

anyone else doing this?
how do you feel about the clearance of 6/1000ths?
 
coring and gluing

I bought a .752 gundrill and use a .750 core lightly sanded to .748. I use gorilla glue my thought being that it expands and fills any voids. Just my opinion. I also spin mine between centers untill I feel the glue has had time to set up a little.
Thanks
 
I don't core much, but do it as needed. I learned a lot from Wes on coring. The tollerances can be somewhat close, 4-6thou. I use poly glue. He did a test once, around the last time the coring topic came up. He glued some up with epoxy and then some with poly. Once dry, he cut the pieces up the middle. The epoxy soaked into the wood, leaving cavities. The poly did not. The poly also did not foam up inside, either as expected. I'd have bet that epoxy would be the bar-none best but the test proved that poly was more appropriate, for me anyway.
 
qbilder said:
I don't core much, but do it as needed. I learned a lot from Wes on coring. The tollerances can be somewhat close, 4-6thou. I use poly glue. He did a test once, around the last time the coring topic came up. He glued some up with epoxy and then some with poly. Once dry, he cut the pieces up the middle. The epoxy soaked into the wood, leaving cavities. The poly did not. The poly also did not foam up inside, either as expected. I'd have bet that epoxy would be the bar-none best but the test proved that poly was more appropriate, for me anyway.
Click to expand...
Can you tell me what poly glue is and what brand you used.
 
qbilder said:
I don't core much, but do it as needed. I learned a lot from Wes on coring. The tollerances can be somewhat close, 4-6thou. I use poly glue. He did a test once, around the last time the coring topic came up. He glued some up with epoxy and then some with poly. Once dry, he cut the pieces up the middle. The epoxy soaked into the wood, leaving cavities. The poly did not. The poly also did not foam up inside, either as expected. I'd have bet that epoxy would be the bar-none best but the test proved that poly was more appropriate, for me anyway.
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I've done the same tests when this topic came up last year. I had the same results. Anybody who thinks that Polly glue is not strong enough for this is out of their mind. I've also put a foream in the vice and hit the dowl with a hammer as hard as I could. It will not move and there are no voids.

I use a .750 gun drill and I cut my dowels to .748. Then I lightly sand them until they are snug, but not too snug. I also cut a ton of grooves for the glue because you will push a lot out when you push the dowel through.
 
Poly glue is polyurethane glue. Gorilla glue is a popular brand. Elmers makes it, too, as well as others.
 
All epoxies are not created equal and have different uses for different applications.
I believe it is a problem to think that only one type of epoxy can be used for building cues.
I've used both types of glue, poly and epoxies for coring and prefer the epoxy.
 
Coring And Glueing

I performed the same tests with epoxy versus Gorilla glue. The Gorilla glue
stood up to the shear, torque and adhesion better than than the epoxy.
I would recommend Gorilla glue FOR THIS APPLICATION. Other
applications require different glues/epoxies. On the subject of gun drill sizes:
you might consider a drill diameter of .758. As this gives you the glue line you need and also your 3/4" trim rings will fit nicely. Cut your core to 3/4 inch and
make glue rings about every inch. I see no need to cut glue lines the length of the core. However, I also thread my butt caps to lock the other components in place.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.
 
deleted,not getting into the Gorilla vs Marine/Aviation Epoxy thing again.i know the winner and i'll leave it at that.
 
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THATS MY NEXT STEP BUYING A GUN DRILL. IS IT POSSIBLE TO GO RIGHT TO .750. I SEE SOME CORE .625 THEN TO 750. IM TALKING ABOUT WORKLOAD WISE. ALL THE DIFFERENT BITS AND ANGLES AND HEADS CONFISE ME.

FOR INSTANCE WHEN I CORE 4'' buttsleevei drill 1/2 thru hole. thrn i bore 1'' on both ends. then i have 2 bits. .625 then.750. i bore in steps

BRENT CAN YOU POST EXACTLY WHAT YOU BOUGHT
 
dave sutton said:
THATS MY NEXT STEP BUYING A GUN DRILL. IS IT POSSIBLE TO GO RIGHT TO .750. I SEE SOME CORE .625 THEN TO 750. IM TALKING ABOUT WORKLOAD WISE. ALL THE DIFFERENT BITS AND ANGLES AND HEADS CONFISE ME.

FOR INSTANCE WHEN I CORE 4'' buttsleevei drill 1/2 thru hole. thrn i bore 1'' on both ends. then i have 2 bits. .625 then.750. i bore in steps

BRENT CAN YOU POST EXACTLY WHAT YOU BOUGHT
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I have a .625 and a .750 Drill. As QMaker said, if I had to order new drills, I'd get .758 and .633.

I core a lot of my wood with .625 and let it sit for a long time and finish it up with the .750 when I'm ready to insert the core.

Some woods, I have a tough time getting the .750" through without first doing a .625" core, but if you had a larger lathe, it probably wouldn't matter. I'll find out once I get the large hunk of metal at the end of my driveway into my shop.
 
masonh said:
lol,just tyring to learn political correctness.
Click to expand...

What's that mean????

I bet Dave uses Elmer's school glue for his cores. I visited his shop & seen no epoxy or wood glue. I only saw Elmers school paste for gluing construction paper :D He was eating it, too :eek:
 
I don't know which side of the argument you are on Mason, but for those that think that Polly Glue is no good, I ask are you building boats or pool cues?

All of my cues are cored except for the first one. I started using Polly Glue. Then I read on here that Polly glue was no good. I tried West Epoxy. I was not happy with the results and I never used one of the forearms cored using West. Then I decided to test the Gorilla Glue Strength. I gave it a lot more abuse than a pool cue will ever see. If it sees as much as I gave it, the glue will be the last of it's problems.

I do know if you use West with the 205 or 206 hardner, you are going to have points where all the glue is absorbed into the wood. Now somebody is going to come on and say not if you use a Vacuum. Why would you need to? Polly glue works fine for me.
 
Tony,what was the trouble the epoxy was causing?

as far as the epoxy seeping into the wood completely leaving dry spots,i really don't see that happening,at least not the way i am doing it.

i do not use West,but i use something similar and i like it better than Poly glue for coring.i have tried both side by side.

i can't imagine someone saying that Poly glue is no good,but i do think there are better glues for cue building and coring.that is just my opinion and i have my reasons,but i think this is a dead horse.
 
I agree that it's a dead horse Mason. I've just seen people flat out say that Polly glue is no good and won't hold up.

I'd guess it's pretty safe to say that whatever glue somebody is using, it is a lot better than what was being used 30 years ago and a lot of those cues are still holding up.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I agree that it's a dead horse Mason. I've just seen people flat out say that Polly glue is no good and won't hold up.

I'd guess it's pretty safe to say that whatever glue somebody is using, it is a lot better than what was being used 30 years ago and a lot of those cues are still holding up.
Click to expand...

exactly my feelings. plus ppl were building tables and chairs and other furniture 100 years ago with alot less technology and they and still very solid
 
they still use Titiebond for furniture.they gle pieces of Oak or whatever together with Titebond for restaurant tables.


i agree that Poly glue will hold up for coring.
 
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