Thanks For The Replies.....
Some interesting comments so far and I guess I'm not alone in my preference for cues in the 18 oz range. Ever since I went down from my 21 oz cue to the 18 oz weight range, my cue ball control and short shape position (1/2 table area) has made quantum improvements. The stroke pendulum with my Scruggs & Mottey cues (both in the 18 oz range) is just incredible and everyone that tried either of these cues were blown away by the feel of the cue. I attribute a lot of that to the ivory ferrules, ivory joints and cue playing weight as much as the wood used or craftsmanship of either cue-maker.
Someone mentioned the balance of the cue and it's not my intention to demean that observation, but that's a necessary feature inherent with the construction of any pool cue. Pretty much every cue-maker strives for a balance point anywhere from 15.5"-21" and maybe there's a cue-maker somewhere with a full splice cue that's different. But regardless, feel and balance are entirely different but both are largely affected with the inclusion of any weight bolt? Sure your cue will still weigh 18.75, 19.0. 19.5, 20 ozs etc. But Remember that weight bolts vary and can be as light as .5-.6 ozs and weigh well over 3.0 ozs. So if the cue-maker makes your cue at the exact weight you wanted....say 19.2 ozs....doesn't matter..., but to get there he used a 2.0 oz weight bolt.....that cue would feel a lot different than if he had made the cue and installed .6 oz weight bolt.
I believe the best arrangement would be for the cue-maker to use the lightest weight bolt available to him instead of making the cue and afterwards relying upon a piece of metal in the butt to achieve the customer's desired cue weight. Can you imagine playing with a 18.5 oz cue and finding out it had a 2.5 oz weight bolt? The cue would play just awful in terms its feel or to achieve any stroke pendelum, your hand position on the wrap would be a lot different from what you'd otherwise play with. Heavy weight bolts are just verboten in my cues.
Someone commented about me thinking that players back then were indeed stronger......Nope. Just the opposite.....I think today's players are better conditioned, stronger, more knowledgeable, and have better equipment too. That's another aspect I didn't consider until someone posted about the cloth. Simonis wasn't as popular back then and cloth durability was probably more of a consideration for pool room operators so heavier grade knap cloths were used. So a heavier cue definitely helped move the cue ball around a 10' table which was the standard for a long time until the 60's when Mosconi and a bunch of other pros convinced BCA, i.e., Brunswick, that a 9' table would help spark increased recreational play and boost home table sales as well. It did and the 9' table subsequently replaced the 10' table as the standard size for championship pocket billiards play. And since 3 cushion billiards has always been played on a 10' table and 5-6 rail shots are not at all uncommon, a heavier cue was absolutely needed.
There's been some excellent points made, including the one about cue-maker reputation. I suppose mostly having lived in really large cities like NYC, Chicago, Dallas, Kansas City, Boston, San Francisco it was pretty common to see pretty much the broadest array of cue-makers imaginable that weren't just a localized cue-maker. But regardless, the question is still what weight do you prefer?
Think of it this way....you just won $5000 worth of dollars with any cue-maker of your choice or even say 20 cue-makers that were randomly selected. Now you can design and order any cue up to $5000 in value.....what weight cue do you want to have when it's completed? Remember there are some heralded cue-makers that can build you a cue within 1/10ths of an ounce of whatever you specify and that's with or without a weight bolt.....that's your call....so the question is....what weight would you tell the cue-maker to produce?