Cue Weight - What Do You Prefer?

19.5oz but balance is important, I prefer a forward balanced cue. I've played well with anything from 16-22oz. You can get used to anything, but my playing cue for 20+years now is 19.5oz
 
Thanks For The Replies.....

Some interesting comments so far and I guess I'm not alone in my preference for cues in the 18 oz range. Ever since I went down from my 21 oz cue to the 18 oz weight range, my cue ball control and short shape position (1/2 table area) has made quantum improvements. The stroke pendulum with my Scruggs & Mottey cues (both in the 18 oz range) is just incredible and everyone that's tried either of these cues were blown away by the feel of the cue. I attribute a lot of that to the ivory ferrules, ivory joints and cue playing weight as much as the wood used or craftsmanship of either cue-maker.

Someone commented about me thinking that players back then were indeed stronger......Nope. Just the opposite.....I think today's players are better conditioned, stronger, more knowledgeable, and have better equipment too. That's another aspect I didn't consider until someone posted about the cloth. Simonis wasn't as popular back then and cloth durability was probably more of a consideration for pool room operators so heavier grade knap cloths were used. So a heavier cue definitely helped move the cue ball around a 10' table which was the standard for a long time until the 60's when Mosconi and a bunch of other pros convinced BCA, i.e., Brunswick, that a 9' table would help spark increased recreational play and drove home table sales, i.e., less space requirements. And since 3 cushion billiards has always been played on a 10' table and 5-6 rail shots are not at all uncommon, a heavier cue was absolutely needed.

So some very good points were made, including the one about cue-maker reputation. I suppose mostly having living in really huge cities like NYC, Chicago, Dallas, Kansas City, Boston, San Francisco it was pretty common to see pretty much the broadest array of cue-makers imaginable that weren't just a localized cue-maker. But regardless, the question is still what weight do you prefer?

Think of it this way....you just won $5000 worth of dollars with any cue-maker of your choice or even say 20 cue-makers that were randomly selected. Now you can design and order any cue up to $5000 in value.....what weight cue do you want to have when it's completed? Remember there are some heralded cue-makers that can build you a cue within 1/10ths of an ounce of whatever you specify and that's with or without a weight bolt.....that's your call....so the question is....what weight cue would you tell the cue-maker to aim for?
 
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Thanks For The Replies.....

Some interesting comments so far and I guess I'm not alone in my preference for cues in the 18 oz range. Ever since I went down from my 21 oz cue to the 18 oz weight range, my cue ball control and short shape position (1/2 table area) has made quantum improvements. The stroke pendulum with my Scruggs & Mottey cues (both in the 18 oz range) is just incredible and everyone that tried either of these cues were blown away by the feel of the cue. I attribute a lot of that to the ivory ferrules, ivory joints and cue playing weight as much as the wood used or craftsmanship of either cue-maker.

Someone mentioned the balance of the cue and it's not my intention to demean that observation, but that's a necessary feature inherent with the construction of any pool cue. Pretty much every cue-maker strives for a balance point anywhere from 15.5"-21" and maybe there's a cue-maker somewhere with a full splice cue that's different. But regardless, feel and balance are entirely different but both are largely affected with the inclusion of any weight bolt? Sure your cue will still weigh 18.75, 19.0. 19.5, 20 ozs etc. But Remember that weight bolts vary and can be as light as .5-.6 ozs and weigh well over 3.0 ozs. So if the cue-maker makes your cue at the exact weight you wanted....say 19.2 ozs....doesn't matter..., but to get there he used a 2.0 oz weight bolt.....that cue would feel a lot different than if he had made the cue and installed .6 oz weight bolt.

I believe the best arrangement would be for the cue-maker to use the lightest weight bolt available to him instead of making the cue and afterwards relying upon a piece of metal in the butt to achieve the customer's desired cue weight. Can you imagine playing with a 18.5 oz cue and finding out it had a 2.5 oz weight bolt? The cue would play just awful in terms its feel or to achieve any stroke pendelum, your hand position on the wrap would be a lot different from what you'd otherwise play with. Heavy weight bolts are just verboten in my cues.

Someone commented about me thinking that players back then were indeed stronger......Nope. Just the opposite.....I think today's players are better conditioned, stronger, more knowledgeable, and have better equipment too. That's another aspect I didn't consider until someone posted about the cloth. Simonis wasn't as popular back then and cloth durability was probably more of a consideration for pool room operators so heavier grade knap cloths were used. So a heavier cue definitely helped move the cue ball around a 10' table which was the standard for a long time until the 60's when Mosconi and a bunch of other pros convinced BCA, i.e., Brunswick, that a 9' table would help spark increased recreational play and boost home table sales as well. It did and the 9' table subsequently replaced the 10' table as the standard size for championship pocket billiards play. And since 3 cushion billiards has always been played on a 10' table and 5-6 rail shots are not at all uncommon, a heavier cue was absolutely needed.

There's been some excellent points made, including the one about cue-maker reputation. I suppose mostly having lived in really large cities like NYC, Chicago, Dallas, Kansas City, Boston, San Francisco it was pretty common to see pretty much the broadest array of cue-makers imaginable that weren't just a localized cue-maker. But regardless, the question is still what weight do you prefer?

Think of it this way....you just won $5000 worth of dollars with any cue-maker of your choice or even say 20 cue-makers that were randomly selected. Now you can design and order any cue up to $5000 in value.....what weight cue do you want to have when it's completed? Remember there are some heralded cue-makers that can build you a cue within 1/10ths of an ounce of whatever you specify and that's with or without a weight bolt.....that's your call....so the question is....what weight would you tell the cue-maker to produce?
 
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Weight bolt please

I have always messed with the weight til it feels right to me. Right now, I play 18.75 and break with 18. For a few years I played with a 20 and broke with a 16. I'd ask for 18.75-19.25 but the balance had to be just right.
 
19 to 19.4 with a balance point of at least 19". My last 2 customs were specified at 19.2. I don't like a butt heavy cue, balance is the key for me.
 
When building a cue that is not sold I shoot for 14 to 15 , knowing I can do just about anything I want . I wont epoxy the pin in , that way I can weight the forarm or butt to come close to the balance point wanted . I personally shoot best with a 17.4 cue I built for myself 7-8 yrs ago , I seem to not ever get a new one for me . Jim
 
Your thread is pretty current at least for me.

I have been playing with a cue which weighs 18.9 ounces for a few years now. Recently I have noticed some top players, using cues that weighed between 19.5 and 20.5 . I hit some balls with their cue and it seemed that it was easier to move the cue ball with the additional weight and I didn't have to use as much muscle to draw the cue ball. So, I'm headed up from where I am.

Each to his own.
 
I'm Surprised......Pleasantly So I Might Add

Obviously, there is no right or wrong answer to a totally subjective question. And whatever works best for anyone is all that matters. Really, when you sum it all up, doesn't it just come down to cue ball position results. I mean we could argue this or that and needless to say, all of us have suffered the dreaded side pocket scratch on a hanger in the corner pocket, or some other horrible outcome because we lost cue ball position.

And it has to be acknowledged that any of us can also screw up the easiest shot imaginable because we tried to get perfect shape instead of just settling for a window on the next object ball. So when we talk about results, we have to look at that over a span of time. Now that does not have top be days or weeks but say just a couple of hours, Did you get better results using the lighter cue. For me, the answer is obvious and I've found it challenging to locate sale listings for cues in the weight range I like. It's not easy as there's not a whole lot of listings so I've been thinking I'm in the minority.

So much to my surprise, quite a few replies have been in synch with what I prefer to play with and a bunch are where I imagined players would prefer to play with and there were more replies for heavier weighted cues than I imagined there'd be. So overall, this has been informative and interesting as well and I hope everyone enjoys this thread.

Special thanks to Jim Baxter for his post. He answer was exactly what I hoped for in terms of being able to build a cue butt to a specific weight and complete a cue to within extremely tight tolerances. It's always been my belief that when the craftsman has the skills, tools, proper materials, and most of all experience, then he can manufacture not only artistically beautiful looking cues but match the final product to exactly what he wants. Jim's credentials are well known on the Forum and I defer to his expertise and knowledge about building a pool cue or anything involving wood working.
 
I order cues with 15 oz butts. This is usually tougher because most of my custom cues are ebony.

I demand the maker provide 4.0 + oz shafts. And they usually come in around 4.2.

I like my cues 19-19.5 oz.

To me the big deal is heavy dense shafts.

Ken
 
Well, I thought I knew what I liked, 15.5oz and 4oz, but I have truly enjoyed cues from 17oz to 21.5oz. It all depends in the balance and taper. I had a 21oz, 59" Perry Weston a few years ago that felt like nothing once it was in play, 4.7oz shaft on that baby. I have a cue that is 17oz and moves the cue ball like a 20 oz cue. I have a shake test that I do to the butts, since that is where the majority of the weight is. I hold the butt in various locations and flick my wrist back and forth. For me, it's an easy test on the balance of a butt regardless of its weight.
 
I prefer somewhere close to 19. You get a well balanced cue and you can't tell the difference of a little weight one way or the other.

My Meucci with the shaft is 19 on the nose. It is so nicely balanced to my liking that weight doesn't mean a thing. I have a JD cue, Joel Dadivas,
that is the same. They just slide thru your hand like a bow to a violin. Most of my cues are like that otherwise they would belong to someone else.

On the other hand, if you were to pick up my cue case, you'd swear that I played with 40 oz cues.

With all the cues and junk in there, it probably looks like the average woman's purse.

Oh well, I'm guilty as charged.

Haha, I edited my post again. Wonder if my old Buddy Mahna will see it.

Hi Mahna. Just teasin ya man.
 
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18.5 - 19.5 oz. total weight. Perhaps it is psycho-sematic, but I feel the cue gets heavy after what seems like 400 + practice strokes in going thru practice before a tourney to being deep into one.
It probably is just me. :wink:
 
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