Cues which screw together tight

alstl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I never really thought about this much previously. I have played with a Schon for quite a while and it doesn't screw together tight, you can use your fingertips to turn it. Last week I came across an old McDermott d-9 in a pawn shop and you have to grip it to screw it together.

Do you think it makes a difference in playability whether it screws together tight or loose, and do the big pin flat faced cues tend to be tighter than the steel jointed cues like my Schon?
 
A radial pin to wood shaft will be about as tight as you can get.
The radial pin gets progressively tighter as you screw it in.

I'm not a fan of metal to metal.

first....


McDermott does have some cues with Radial pins.
I like the 3X10 pins.

-Mathew
 
This doesn't really answer your question but my McDermott cue was very tight to screw together. After contacting McDermott, they offered to re-tap the shaft at no charge with free shipping. It screws together perfectly and stays tight. I really enjoy playing with my McDermott cue. You may try putting a little wax on the threads next time which will make screwing it together a little smoother but won't affect it staying tight.
 
I'll just say that ALOT of people feel the more contact in the screw/joint the better. Just one reason why radials and other big pins have gotten so popular.

Of course it's still all opinion. ;)



















<----- Radials Only
 
I have an old kikel that has an oversized acme 3/8 10 pin. The pin is a couple of thou. bigger than the female threads. Takes effort to screw it together. It plays marvelously, but so do other cues I have that are easy to assemble. So...I think if you like how the thing plays, it doesn't really matter.
 
Whether you screw in tight or easily, it doesn't matter as long as the joint is flush and it is screwed tightly. At least a top player told me that once.

Some cues do come loose as you play though. If it is easy to screw in, it will be easy to unscrew too. You have to agree with this.

Read what MIke Lambros has to say on his website. http://www.lambroscues.com/indexpage.htm

His 'ultra joint' is and cues are considered to be the best hitting cue on the planet. Mezz also makes something similar with the ability to screw the last two or three revolutions increasingly tighter and tighter.

I would say that this is only things that would help the cue attach better and play better. Good luck.
 
I don't think any cues screw together as tight as a Schuler. The Schuler joint is different from all other joints and gives really a really good feel if that is what you like.

I have a Schuler and really love the way it plays. I also have a Shurtz witha 3/8 11 pin that goes together tight as well but not as tight as Schuler cues do. IMO

Gary
 
im not a big fan of cues that screw in so tight they are a real bear to put together and take apart. I know that some swear by that tightness, that to them its a sign the cue hits better, but I have hit with many a cue that plays jamup and doesnt require brute force to put together or break down.
 
jasonlaus said:
Searings are very tight.

I would call Searings snug, not so tight as to compress anything. I like the joint snug, not loose or so tight you have to fight getting it on or off.
 
I have a older Schon (Runde Era). It has the SS joint. The shaft will thread on very smoothly and then get tighter around the last turn. A Pedator 314 shaft will fit but does not tighten up like the Schon shaft on the last turn. I have tried to use the Schon shaft on another SS 5/16 threaded butt and it will not thread on but the shaft from that cue will fit on the Schon.
 
If you make sure the cue is tight before you start to play, it really shouldn't make any difference. Steel does and will feel different than wood to wood. The Gulyassy I had for several years was tighter than any cue I have owned before or since. Mike used to put a nylon sleeve in the shafts and it was very tight.
 
Bushka's and Black Boars are tight, it makes a big difference, I have had Barry make me firm fitting shafts.
 
I posted some pics recently of a redheart Kikel in the gallery, it has a brass radial pin into wood and it is really tight! Putting it together is a chore but it never feels loose.....
Dan
 
Jack Madden will make you a cue with his own 3x10 (by own, I mean he makes them) pin that screws together really snug.
 
The Mike Bender (3-8/14 wood to wood joint pin) that i'm playing with now is really tight. I never come across a cue with as tight as this one. Even with other Benders. Basically i have to force it when put on/off the shaft. Some of my friends laugh at me to take 5 mins to put on/off the shaft. But it hit solid tho.
 
alstl said:
I never really thought about this much previously. I have played with a Schon for quite a while and it doesn't screw together tight, you can use your fingertips to turn it. Last week I came across an old McDermott d-9 in a pawn shop and you have to grip it to screw it together.

Do you think it makes a difference in playability whether it screws together tight or loose, and do the big pin flat faced cues tend to be tighter than the steel jointed cues like my Schon?

Al, any cue can be modified and made to screw together tight. However, too tight is not a good thing either, and generally it is caused by the threads binding, especially in older used cues, like the McDermott you are talking about.

You stated that your Schon did not screw together tight, this can be caused by two things. First it could be that the brass insert is worn due to use and time, but in most case metal inserts are made slightly large to prevent binding. Second, Schons come with a Stainless Steel joint that is piloted, and the reason many shafts do not fit cues made this way tighter, is because the pilot on the shaft is under sized doesn't actually go very deep in to the joint collar.

With cues that have a wood to wood joint normally the threads start out tight and loosen as the cue begins to age in most cases. If the shaft on an old cue fits real tight, more than likely the cues threads have swelled do to some form of moisture. If the threads in a wood to wood joint are so tight that it takes force to screw the cue together, it could crack the shaft.

The insert or the pilot on any shaft can be changed to something that will fit tighter by adding a phenolic insert in place of a metal one, or by machining the pilot on the shaft and add a phenolic pilot that is larger in diameter.

Hope this helps
 
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alstl said:
I never really thought about this much previously. I have played with a Schon for quite a while and it doesn't screw together tight, you can use your fingertips to turn it. Last week I came across an old McDermott d-9 in a pawn shop and you have to grip it to screw it together.

Do you think it makes a difference in playability whether it screws together tight or loose, and do the big pin flat faced cues tend to be tighter than the steel jointed cues like my Schon?

i think in the case of the mcdermot it was the wood threads that did it. if joint protectors aren't used moisture can get to the wood and make it swell
 
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