Davis conversion

Tap Tap

Well Said Tommyd1!

Eric is awesome! not only a great cuemaker but a great person to boot!!!

Eric is a true artisan, to be able to take hackneyed designs and to put his own unique spin on them and make them fresh again; a breath of fresh air. In addition his wood selection and philosophy is truly pheonmenal. I cannot wait to see the next set of squares that are spun from the shop :D !!!

Thanks for the eye candy, I can't wait to taste a Sugartree for myself!

Tommyd1 said:
Eric,

You are truly a Lucky Guy !!

To be so blessed with the talent that you have, to be able to create something like this, as you have.

Life's true meaning is to be able to help people and/ or, to make people happy.

Your talent certainly will make many people happy !!

Congradulations my friend :)

Tommyd1 - Michigan
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Davis

Really nice work Eric. I've been thinking about getting a Davis blank and having a cue made. You sure do make it tempting. Fantastic craftsmanship and design. Kudos to you sir!!
 
Very nice work.
The rings came out exceptionally well - love how they compliment the cue.
The owner is going to love this cue.
 
qbilder said:
This is a Davis conversion I am just finishing up. The blank is one of the first few John made when getting back into the business. Since aquiring this blank, I have gotten to know John a bit & so this cue took on more meaning. Not only am I building it specifically for a fellow player, I am also building it as a tribute to John Davis, a fine gentleman & cuemaker. The owner has been awaiting very patiently, as this was supposed to be completed mid-summer. It is kingwood into maple with a kingwood butt. The joint collar is hippo tusk accented by kingwood/ivory checkered rings with thin kingwood & black phenolic rings, collared with black phenolic. The butt rings are a spin off of an old Bushka cue with veneered checkers. The veneers match the point veneers of grey & burgundy. Buttcap is delrin.

I normally don't post pics of my work here, but I think the new owner might enjoy seeing his cue shown off ;)

pcal.jpg

pcal3.jpg

pcal2.jpg

pcal4.jpg


Eric Crisp
Sugartree Customs
Click to expand...

Very nice looking cue. May I ask what you charge for a Davis conversion?
 
That's a beautiful conversion. Everything really seems to work together. I bet it plays as good as it looks too!
:p
 
I have been seeing a LOT of Davis conversion cues on here in the last 6 months or so, but I would have to say, that this one is without a doubt, the finest one I have seen to date! You did an outstanding job with this cue, and I like how you found the perfect piece of Kingwood for the butt sleeve to match that which is in the points. The ringwork is perfect for this cue as well.

Very rarely does a cue come along whose design has the perfect 'flow'/balance to it...this is one of those cues! :D

Lisa
 
Thanks again for the feedback :) I appreciate all the back scratching I can get!!!!

Lisa, the kingwood was not easy to match. Kingwood is a diverse wood ranging from purple to brown to red. Even the grain lines can show telling differences. Luckily I have a solid stock of wood & had enough kingwood to choose from, and found one with perfect color & matching grain count & grain cosistency. Tiny details can make or break a design.

As for other Davis conversions & pricing, I will not be accepting any more orders. I have five blanks to do as of now, all spoken for, and that will be it. I will do some from time to time under special circumstances, such as building one for myself. I really like Mr. Davis & have gotten to know him on a friendly level so he & I will be working on some blank designs for some of my future cues. Some day i'd like to complete one for him. I'd love to build a cue for everybody but i'm tremendously backed up & too slow to ever catch up, I think. Life has it's ways of happening & slowing things down.
 
qbilder said:
Life has it's ways of happening & slowing things down.
Click to expand...
Ain't that the truth.
I wish I did not have a full-time job sometimes. Just turn the switch on at the shop in the morning and turn it off at 5 pm.
But, I'm glad we do this for the love of it and do not chase a deadline to pay the bills every month. I know it kinda sukks for the customers waiting for the cue but only if they knew what really goes on in getting a labor of love cue out, they would probably pay and wait more.
The hours and dollars in honing skills, equipment repair/making/collecting, cutting, cleaning, etc if spent in school would be a lot more profitable.
But, nothing beats the pride and joy of making wands that some and only few people get to play with. :)

Now, send me a blank. Am not picky. Curly purpleheart with striped Koa points and Titlist veneers.
 
masonh said:
what type of wood is the pin set in?looks a little like the same Kingwood?
Click to expand...

It's bocote. I put a partial core into the front of the cue that extended out about an inch. This was done early when the blank was oversized. The reason is to have dummy material that can be recentered over & over while attempting to keep the points dead even during the cutting stages. As the blanks come down to size, there is a little movement from time & time & with each movement the points come off even. When that happens I recenter the blank so that on the next cue the points will even up again. Instead of cutting away on the actual forearm, I put in a dummy plug to cut away on instead. This leaves the actual forearm full length through the process to finish. It gets cut flush & faced, then makes for nice clean threads that the joint pin locks into.

I use this method on sneakies and veneered blanks alike. It's something I learned years ago when I was using house cues as sneakies, but wanted to even up the points. On those I simly made the forearm longer, but in pre-made blanks I add a dummy plug.
 
qbilder said:
It's bocote. I put a partial core into the front of the cue that extended out about an inch. This was done early when the blank was oversized. The reason is to have dummy material that can be recentered over & over while attempting to keep the points dead even during the cutting stages. As the blanks come down to size, there is a little movement from time & time & with each movement the points come off even. When that happens I recenter the blank so that on the next cue the points will even up again. Instead of cutting away on the actual forearm, I put in a dummy plug to cut away on instead. This leaves the actual forearm full length through the process to finish. It gets cut flush & faced, then makes for nice clean threads that the joint pin locks into.

I use this method on sneakies and veneered blanks alike. It's something I learned years ago when I was using house cues as sneakies, but wanted to even up the points. On those I simly made the forearm longer, but in pre-made blanks I add a dummy plug.
Click to expand...
My lips are sealed.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top