Ebony. . .shaft?

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is this possible? Specifically for a break cue. I know they make Purple Heartwood shafts that are heavier and on the stiff side specifically for breaking, and J/B if I remember correctly.

I really want an ALL black break cue. I have a BK2 currently, and really want a custom break cue put together, and didn't know if it would be possible to have an ebony shaft to match it. As I know my next cue will be an ebony/ebony cue, I just think it would be really Unique to have a break cue like that.

If I have read correctly(I'm still learning), Ebony tends to be a heavier wood than some others, so I'm just wondering if an ebony shaft is going to add too much weight to a cue and make it not playable(even for breaking). I'm sure a full ebony butt would be possible for a break cue, even if it had to be cored, just curious about the possibility of the matching shaft.

Or is my best bet to actually have a maple shaft stained black?
 

Double-Dave

Developing cue-addict
Silver Member
I have an ebony shaft. It weighs 7.5Oz with a brass insert, so around 7Oz if you use a big pin.

More of a gimmick then something actually useable, if you pair it with a 12-13Oz to get an acceptable total weight it becomes extremely front heavy.
However it does have a really hard hit and breaks the balls well.

gr. Dave
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
It seems possible; However getting a piece of material long enough to make a shaft from will not be inexpensive...

But all that aside, I think it could be done. It will take quite a while and be quite expensive no matter who does it, because I doubt there are any makers with ebony blanks in their cue for shafts.

Ebony loves to check (crack) when dried too quickly, and cutting a shaft too quickly will be a disaster. If you start today, I think it would be a year or two before a shaft would be ready to play.

Then we have to think about the mechanics. Ebony is very stiff, but also somewhat brittle. Maple has a nice ability to flex, which helps preserve it in use (but still breaks from time to time).

You may be better served with an ash shaft to try in the mean time and see if it has the feel you are after.

Anything could be stained; however it will eventually wear and look a bit bad near the tip. Perhaps there are techniques that I am not familiar with that could stain ash or maple more deeply and permanently...:confused:
 

McChen

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
also since ebony is quite heavy compared to maple, you will get a lot more deflection
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
Good point; however I think this was to be a break only cue.

It would not play like anything else that much is for sure...
 

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It seems possible; However getting a piece of material long enough to make a shaft from will not be inexpensive...

But all that aside, I think it could be done. It will take quite a while and be quite expensive no matter who does it, because I doubt there are any makers with ebony blanks in their cue for shafts.

Ebony loves to check (crack) when dried too quickly, and cutting a shaft too quickly will be a disaster. If you start today, I think it would be a year or two before a shaft would be ready to play.

Then we have to think about the mechanics. Ebony is very stiff, but also somewhat brittle. Maple has a nice ability to flex, which helps preserve it in use (but still breaks from time to time).

You may be better served with an ash shaft to try in the mean time and see if it has the feel you are after.

Anything could be stained; however it will eventually wear and look a bit bad near the tip. Perhaps there are techniques that I am not familiar with that could stain ash or maple more deeply and permanently...:confused:

Thank you for the input. You mentioned feel of the shaft. Honestly it's not as much the feel I'm looking for as much as the look to be honest. Feel is, of course, important because I want to be able to hit with it, but it really just needs to be a stiff hitting cue that's going to be durable enough to break with. So maybe I'm looking for a good way to MAKE a shaft black, even if it's not an ebony shaft. Ebony just seemed to make the most sense because it's already black, and there's no chance of stain coming off or any of the other issues of adding things to the wood.

I get what you mean about ebony being too stiff to flex, and I could see that being an issue, especially if you are going to break with it, which puts quite a bit of torque on the shaft.

Also, for McChen, on the deflection issue, I'm not really worried about it, as I only plan to break with the cue.
 

hangemhigh

Known Sinner
Silver Member
Cost /risk not worth the reward. Take a Maple dowel and core it with all-thread, dye and seal.
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
I am also interested to see if there are options for a deeper staining of lighter woods. Veneers are a good example of a through-stain; however that is a softer wood than Maple (although it is typically "hardwood" it is not as hard as others).

PS: Balsa is a hardwood as well... (probably takes stain deep too) I don't suggest a Balsa shaft...:eek:
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
Cost /risk not worth the reward. Take a Maple dowel and core it with all-thread, dye and seal.

S I C K!!!!

Use brass for the purists out there...

Brings new meaning to "pin in shaft" cue design!:D

Replacing that pin will be a serious ***** however... (don't drop it on the pin!)
 

gatorjoe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't know about ebony but I have a curly maple brake cue with a ipa shaft. It is top heavy but it is also thiner than a standard cue. It works very well because the curly is so light that when you get in your stance to break the balance point neon so far forward that it feels like your pushing air. So I think it would work but you would have to have a very light but.

Thanks,
Joe
 

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cost /risk not worth the reward. Take a Maple dowel and core it with all-thread, dye and seal.

All-thread? I'm not familiar with this. Are you suggesting dye/seal a maple shaft would probably be best then?

Joey, I know what you mean about being expensive, but while you say non-existant, it's what I want, the problem exists at least for me. :)

Maybe I should look into a graphite shaft. . .I have broke with one of the cheapy wal-mart graphite cues, and they don't hit too bad for breaking. LOL.

Basically I'm looking for something to look good, and while being unique, I'm not looking for something that's a "gimmick", I still want soemthing functional.
 

plshrk22

A Holes Billiards
Gold Member
Silver Member
"Looks" wise I think it will look like you are shooting with a cheap Carbon Cuetec.. Just my $.02.
 

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
"Looks" wise I think it will look like you are shooting with a cheap Carbon Cuetec.. Just my $.02.

Well, if a cheap carbon Cuetec has a hoppe ring, and silver railroad ringwork at the joint(and maybe above and below a leather wrap, if I go that route). . .then sure. :)
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
If you can get a long-strand carbon/Kevlar blank it could make for an interesting shaft. Color will be more of a DEEP gray but pretty close to black.

It will be virtually flex-free (1/4 inch or less flexes as much as 1/2 inch or more of sugar maple) fairly light, and (literally) bullet proof.

However, I don't know any cue maker who would want that on their shaft machine. It will destroy their carbide cutter and fill their shop with the nastiest, itchiest dust/fibers they have ever seen.



<-------Has worked with carbon sheet. Nasty stuff...
 

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ya. That's not really a route I would prefer. Cue's are made of wood for a reason, and the best cues in the world are always wood, so there's gotta be SOME reason for that. ;)

I don't know, it was a thought I had when looking at my BK2 and asking myself what more I would want if I got a custom break cue.

I just figured I would throw it out here to AZ where the more knowledgeable people to tell me the feasibility of an all ebony break cue, vs staining a shaft black, which I would guess is much more possible. I had seen Purple Heartwood shafts, and didn't know if Ebony would be within the realm of possibility.
 

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
Silver Member
If you ebony-stained purple heart I think it would be very black, and also not be as noticeable as it wore through. (this is probably your best compromise in reality)

Also, if you hunt on-line, you might be able to get a conic blank made so that very little machining would have to be done to complete the shaft. All you need is a tip and joint work, because there's not much stronger you could add for a ferrule and joint collar... Note it will be conic, so no 'pro-taper' but not a big deal for breaking anyway....
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Joey, I know what you mean about being expensive, but while you say non-existent, it's what I want, the problem exists at least for me. :)

And what problem is that ?
 

Spyral7

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was on the thought you were referring to wanting a black shaft. Am I off on that thought? I might have missed what you were referring to in your post.
 
Top