Ebony titlist

Any one have one unfinished



This is going to be a very difficult cue to locate. True black ebony Titlists are rare. Some rosewoods are confused with ebony as they oxidize they get dark. If you find one, please post some pictures. I've seen a lot of Titlists and can't say for sure if I've ever seen an ebony one.

It's easier to find an ebony two piece "Willie Hoppe Professional" in ebony but they will be expensive.

You might want to look into buying a John Davis ebony blank with Titlist veneer colors if you can't find a suitable cue.
 
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If you find one, please post some pictures. I've seen a lot of Titlists and can't say for sure if I've ever seen an ebony one.

In case he can't find one to post photos of, here is a completed one from Mr. Drexler. Now you can say you've seen one! Lol :p

PFDdyedcorkwrap005.jpg
 
This is going to be a very difficult cue to locate. True black ebony Titlists are rare. Some rosewoods are confused with ebony as they oxidize they get dark. If you find one, please post some pictures. I've seen a lot of Titlists and can't say for sure if I've ever seen an ebony one.

It's easier to find an ebony two piece "Willie Hoppe Professional" in ebony but they will be expensive.

You might want to look into buying a John Davis ebony blank with Titlist veneer colors if you can't find a suitable cue.



Ive seen only one and its condition was less than pitiful........

Ebony none the less?
 
Eboney Titilist

Ive seen only one and its condition was less than pitiful........

Ebony none the less?

I have only seen 1 at HillTop Billiards in Cincinnati which is now closed,
The owner Ron Kollman had or still has the 1 piece, I tried 3-4 times to purchase the cue from Ron but I thought 400 was too steep allmost
10 years ago and it was unmolested,it even had that old timeless look
or patena to it, you know shaft area all dark from years of play
and that old dull finish, I sure would like to get that cue for 400 today!!
LOL
Bob
 
In case he can't find one to post photos of, here is a completed one from Mr. Drexler. Now you can say you've seen one! Lol :p


Are you sure that is a Brunswick Titlist or a 26 1/2? It doesn't look like one to me, the bottom of the points are square not pointed, it looks like a recently made blank to me. I have a number of early Brunswicks, both Titlist cues, 26 1/2 cues and Carom Kings from the late 30's and I have never seen one with square points.
 
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In case he can't find one to post photos of, here is a completed one from Mr. Drexler. Now you can say you've seen one! Lol :p


Are you sure that is a Brunswick Titlist or a 26 1/2? It doesn't look like one to me, the bottom of the points are square not pointed, it looks like a recently made blank to me. I have a number of early Brunswicks, both Titlist cues, 26 1/2 cues and Carom Kings from the late 30's and I have never seen one with square points.

Its a wrap squaring off the points...
 
I'm the original owner of this cue. Paul Drexler built this cue for me from my specs and design. It was built using an unfinished Titlist blank... not from a finished cue. The wrap was natural cork. I see it must have been replaced or stained.
 
I'm the original owner of this cue. Paul Drexler built this cue for me from my specs and design. It was built using an unfinished Titlist blank... not from a finished cue. The wrap was natural cork. I see it must have been replaced or stained.

Paul's cork wraps are second to NONE...
 
I'm the original owner of this cue. Paul Drexler built this cue for me from my specs and design. It was built using an unfinished Titlist blank... not from a finished cue. The wrap was natural cork. I see it must have been replaced or stained.



They should have left the Cork alone, I personally love Cork wraps. Thanks for the information, when I convert these cues I always try to either make them wrap-less or I try to keep the bottom of the points above the wrap which in most cases is impossible.

Did this cue have a handle added? In many cases that is the only way to convert these cues, that is why I make most of them wrap-less. That way it doesn't take away from the hit you get with a solid piece of old wood.

Take care Charlie
 
They should have left the Cork alone, I personally love Cork wraps. Thanks for the information, when I convert these cues I always try to either make them wrap-less or I try to keep the bottom of the points above the wrap which in most cases is impossible.

Did this cue have a handle added? In many cases that is the only way to convert these cues, that is why I make most of them wrap-less. That way it doesn't take away from the hit you get with a solid piece of old wood.

Take care Charlie

I honestly don't remember if a handle was used or not. It's been a while now and at that time I was buying a lot of cues... I had the bug. Thank goodness I got over that, LOL.
 
my advice is buy a blank from prather
his are better than the titleist
you can order ebony and have your favorite cue maker finish the cue

the main way people tell them apart is the points are better on the prather
 
my advice is buy a blank from prather
his are better than the titleist
you can order ebony and have your favorite cue maker finish the cue

the main way people tell them apart is the points are better on the prather


That is certainly an option, however, you certainly do not get the hit of 50+ year old seasoned wood and that alone is worth using an old Brunswick.
 
100% correct

That is certainly an option, however, you certainly do not get the hit of 50+ year old seasoned wood and that alone is worth using an old Brunswick.

I own four conversions. Nothing hits like the old legend
 
Manwon is a knowledgable cue man
but I have never been able to tell the difference in old wood and new

i am sure that people can,but I'm not one
i wonder what would be so much better

decomposition? i can not figure how it works

to tell the truth i can not tell the difference in full splice

after 56 years of playing,all i know is i like some cues and don't
like others,but i don't know the science
 
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