asn130 said:i put an everest tip on one of my schon shafts last year & absolutey love it.
To me, it's a little harder than a moori & definately harder than a sniper & it plays about the same after you break it in. (doesn't go from soft to hard like a moori)
lfigueroa said:Just got three shafts retipped with my very first Tiger Everest tips after years of using Mooris and being disappointed with them the last few years and I plan on ripping these Everest tips off as soon as I get anywhere near a decent cue mechanic -- brand new and they are delaminating like crazy.
I played with one for a few hours and had to switch to another shaft because the first tip started with a tapping noise. The second tip also started tapping. When I got home and could put on some reading glasses for a close look I could see what was going on and peeled off two layers of tip off the top that had started to separate. A few more hours of play and I had to peel off another two layers. I expect that I will lose an equal number of layers off the second shaft. Don't know about the third yet...
Lou Figueroa
It is highly recommended that a tip pik not be used when working on a laminated tip. All that is really usually needed is a shaper & a scuffer. The previously mentioned "Ultimate Tip Tool" performs these two functions well. It's important to note that the machined area of that tool should be used to "tap" the tip, not scrape across it. Much more effective if you tap it while turning the cue.av84fun said:I am always interested in numerous posts that talk about delaminating of layered tips. I've played with a Moori Medium for at least 5 years and have never had one delaminate. I shoot the tip until it is worn WAY down.
However, I don't scuff much and when I do I use the Ultimate tip tool which doesn't have "pins" or "picks" but rather what I would call a circle with a grid of tiny "bumps": that you roll over the tip rather than tapping it.
Does the job and never a delamination problem. I've heard the rumors about a decline in Moori quality but I have never experienced it. Maybe I've just been lucky.
Regards,
Jim
lfigueroa said:Just got three shafts retipped with my very first Tiger Everest tips after years of using Mooris and being disappointed with them the last few years and I plan on ripping these Everest tips off as soon as I get anywhere near a decent cue mechanic -- brand new and they are delaminating like crazy.
I played with one for a few hours and had to switch to another shaft because the first tip started with a tapping noise. The second tip also started tapping. When I got home and could put on some reading glasses for a close look I could see what was going on and peeled off two layers of tip off the top that had started to separate. A few more hours of play and I had to peel off another two layers. I expect that I will lose an equal number of layers off the second shaft. Don't know about the third yet...
Lou Figueroa
Cuedog said:This sounds like operator error or maybe the tips were stored incorrectly, or maybe the wrong tip tool is being used. Just a guess. It's very rare in my experience, that the Everest tip delaminates. Though I don't doubt that your tips are delams as you say, the reason may not lie with the manufacturer.
Gene
Murray Tucker said:I'm the installer of the tips in question. They are stored in my temperature and humidity controlled shop. My tips are also purchased directly from Tiger so I don't think that they were stored wrong there.
This is the first time I've heard of a delamination problem with the Everest tips.
I cut them with a very sharp tool and keep pressure on them with my concave live center during the cutting process. Then I burnish with a piece of leather. I wonder if the heat generated from burnishing is breaking down the glue.
rhncue said:Hey Murray, I never have burnished a layered tip for fear of what may be occurring to these tips. I always just took for granted that layered tips were put together with some type of contact cement and I know that contact cement won't take much heat without becoming all rubbery. Learned that many years ago putting on Champion tips that used contact cement to hold their pads on. Anytime I burnished one I would have to take the tip off of the pad and re glue with another glue.
Dick
av84fun said:I am always interested in numerous posts that talk about delaminating of layered tips. I've played with a Moori Medium for at least 5 years and have never had one delaminate. I shoot the tip until it is worn WAY down.
However, I don't scuff much and when I do I use the Ultimate tip tool which doesn't have "pins" or "picks" but rather what I would call a circle with a grid of tiny "bumps": that you roll over the tip rather than tapping it.
Does the job and never a delamination problem. I've heard the rumors about a decline in Moori quality but I have never experienced it. Maybe I've just been lucky.
Regards,
Jim
Murray Tucker said:That will teach me to make a product recommendation. When you get the re-tip done send me the bill and I'll take care of it.
lfigueroa said:nah, it's just one of those things that happen. But thanks for the offer, Murray.
FWIW, the other thing I'm noticing is that even after removing the separating layers, I've hit a couple of big (well, big for a pool cue tip -- like maybe the size of pin heads) particles of glue, which of course, also causes tapping when hit just right.
Frankly, I think I'm going back to some non-layer type tip in the very near future
Lou Figueroa
By the tone of your post Murray, I assume there was no offense taken. There certainly was none meant. Your method for installing these is a sound one with the exception, IMO, of one step.Murray Tucker said:I'm the installer of the tips in question. They are stored in my temperature and humidity controlled shop. My tips are also purchased directly from Tiger so I don't think that they were stored wrong there.
This is the first time I've heard of a delamination problem with the Everest tips.
I cut them with a very sharp tool and keep pressure on them with my concave live center during the cutting process. Then I burnish with a piece of leather. I wonder if the heat generated from burnishing is breaking down the glue.
Cuedog said:By the tone of your post Murray, I assume there was no offense taken. There certainly was none meant. Your method for installing these is a sound one with the exception, IMO, of one step.
I too believe that there is no reason to burnish these tips. In fact, softening the glue between the layers is a very definite concern if burnished. Where burnishing was a needed technique with the single layered tips, there are many layered tips that don't require it. The Everest tip is one of them.
To those that are looking to jump ship, the Everest tip is one of the finest mid-priced tips on the market. It's close cousin, the Sniper tip, sits up there with the best tips in the world namely Moori and Kamui.
What a great offer by Murray. His reputation is flawless and I think it's commendable that he stepped up to make this right for you.
Gene
rhncue said:Hey Murray, I never have burnished a layered tip for fear of what may be occurring to these tips. I always just took for granted that layered tips were put together with some type of contact cement and I know that contact cement won't take much heat without becoming all rubbery. Learned that many years ago putting on Champion tips that used contact cement to hold their pads on. Anytime I burnished one I would have to take the tip off of the pad and re glue with another glue.
Dick
av84fun said:I have used the burnishing function of the Ultimate tool for years.
CrownCityCorey said:Sorry, I was away from a puter for a while.
Here is the Tiger Laminated Cue Tips hardness chart:
Sniper - Med Hard
Everest - Med
Tiger Jump/Break - Very Hard
Tiger - Soft, Med, and Hard
Dynamite - Med Hard
Sniper is often mistaken for a softer tip. Mostly due to its superior grip; however, the Sniper is harder than the Everest.