They're suppose to expand.mreightball said:
glue for phenolic tip
- Thread starter mreightball
- Start date
Hi JoeyInCali:JoeyInCali said:
If the glue expands won't it push the tip away from the shaft leaving some space that is basically glue. I tried the gorilla glue and when tip popped off it didn't look like there was much glue making contact. Did i press it too hard and push all the glue out?
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No matter what glue you use...you are setting yourself up for the tip to pop off at a bad time. Many will swear they have phenolic tips stay on with just CA but they are a lucky few. I prefer not to take the chance. If you have access to a lathe then buy the phenolic in rod form and make your own tip. Cut the tip with a stem on the backside...you can even thread it 5/16-18 if you'd like. Then make the hole into the ferrule (I suggest using an unbreakable ferrule material) and thread the tip down into the ferrule with epoxy or even CA gel is fine. The stem gives a much larger glue surface and also keeps the tip in place during the side stress from a bad hit that usually makes the tip pop off. Your tip will now stay on for a lifetime...anything less is a recipe for failure at some point.:smile:
Zims Rack said:
Some players prefer a traditional white ferrule...plus it draws less attention.
Please be patient with my question, it is genuine. If the statement "Your tip will now stay on for a lifetime...anything less is a recipe for failure at some point." is correct, why do the Predator BK2 tips stay on (or perhaps they don't, but I'm unaware of that)? I have two BK2's and on one, the phenolic tip is almost worn to the carbon fiber pad from chalkings. I asked Predator about that and was told that when the phenolic tip gets very thin there is a risk that the glue can separate and an air bubble form under the middle of the tip, lessening the hit. They suggested I send it in and have the phenolic tip replaced.
My point is that the phenolic tip is obviously glued on, yet to my knowledge they never pop off. Perhaps Predator uses a special glue. Just thought I'd throw that into the confusion.
My point is that the phenolic tip is obviously glued on, yet to my knowledge they never pop off. Perhaps Predator uses a special glue. Just thought I'd throw that into the confusion.
I just had a customer with a BK2 a couple weeks ago that the original tip popped off. He wanted a leather replacement.
I don't do phenolic tips anymore. Just the tip/ferrule combo. Too much hassle for me.
I don't do phenolic tips anymore. Just the tip/ferrule combo. Too much hassle for me.
Very good point here. How thick are you making the stem and how long of a stem do you put on the tip and how thick are you making the tip?Varney Cues said:
Ron
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mreightball said:
No set rules here. Ideally you would use a 1/4" diameter stem and have it go almost 1/2" into the ferrule...with the shaft tenon filling the other 1/2" of a 1" ferrule. The tenon does not have to be 1/2" though as I have used shorter on shorter ferrules and it works fine. I like to thread my tenon and tap the ferrule hole but thats really not necessary either as a nice tight ship fit works well. Don't get it extremely tight though as you do want some room for adhesive. The thickness of the tip doesn't really matter either...thicker is more durable but I don't like it so thick it looks odd. Let me see if I can dig up a pic. If you like I'd be glad to fix it for you correctly.:smile:
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Just what phenolic material are you guys using for tip/ferrule one piece combinations? I have a rod of both black and brown ferrule size material that I got from Atlas a few years ago that I have been using when making the one piece ferrule/tip ferrules but I have had an awfully large amount of returns do to the tip end becoming smashed out or a chunk coming out of it. Is there a better material available or have I been constructing them incorrectly? I make the tip surface with just a slight radius as I always believed that in this way the player has a better chance of hitting closer to the center of the cue ball when stroking the cue at it's fastest speed and control is at it's lowest. This may be the biggest cause of this deformation as the ball my be getting hit on the very edge of the tip and not miscuing as much but putting much extra strain on the edge, which of coarse, is the weakest area. What are your opinions on this?
Dick
Dick
dickie, i use the same stuff, canvas phenolic rod from prathersrhncue said:
havent bought any from atlas, but i'm assuming it's the same material
i've only done a dozen or so, not aware of any problems so far
i shape to a nickel radius with a dremel grinding disc
Varney Cues said:
You probly dont realize this but steming you tip into the ferrule is enfringing on the patent of the Stinger Jump Break cue by Jerry Powers which is now owned by McDermott..
conetip said:
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Those patents are just great.
Next, I'm gonna patent a capped ferrule with a stem.
Then I'll patent a phenolic tip with the matching counterbore.
Next, I'm gonna patent a capped ferrule with a stem.
Then I'll patent a phenolic tip with the matching counterbore.
Dick I'd wager you have the linen phenolic instead of the canvas phenolic...they look very similar. I accidentally ordered the linen too once. It looked almost the same but like you they busted & cracked often. If you look under phenolic rod at Atlas you'll see 2 different types...linen & also the canvas. The canvas is the one you want. When compared side by side the canvas has a much larger & bolder weave pattern. The canvas material is also bullet proof as I've honestly yet to have one fail.:wink:rhncue said:
I have to laugh at the discussion of patents and screw on tips. There have been screw on tips and ferrules with threads in them for many many years. I can't see how you can patent an idea of screwing a tip into a shaft or ferrule. I would have to see it in writing and not just listen to someone telling me they have a patent.
Ron
Ron
I use to use the linen phenolic also, but had a few come back with chips on the edges of the tip. Did my research and have been using canvas phenolic for over a year or so and have not had any with problems. I put a nickel shape on mine, giving it more surface contact with the cue ball just as Dick had described.
Zim
Zim
mreightball said:
Ron and others,
Mike Gulyassy does hold a patent on a one piece tip/ferrule (US7,097,570).
The Stinger?s advertising states it?s protected by patent # US5,262,490. That?s the wrong number, and I?ve pointed it out to them. The correct number is US5,462,490. It may not seem important, but if he/they ever sue on the patent and seek treble damages for willful infringement, listing the wrong number on their advertising may cause them some extra work.
Just as a matter of point, a commercial sale is not a prerequisite for patent infringement. Infringement occurs if you make even one patented article, unless it falls into a narrow class of ?experimental use.?
Alan