glue question.

dave sutton

dave sutton

Banned
i use titebond2 for my veneers. its the best wood glue availible IMO. ive been considering using it on my a joints and buttlseeves. anything wood to wood. for that more natural thing. has anyone tried this. nothing special tenon out of handle into forearm 3x8-10 alum threaded rod.

wondering if it will hold up over time. i epoxy eveything bc struct. i know its holding up but been considering taking a more natural approach
 
i wouldn't try it.are you talking about joint,butt and A-joint.i wouldn't try it on any.
 
a-joint is the most crucial part of the cue.i wouldn't want it glued up with wood glue.i know titebond is good and i use it on ferrules,but i wouldn't use it there
 
dave sutton said:
i use titebond2 for my veneers. its the best wood glue availible IMO. ive been considering using it on my a joints and buttlseeves. anything wood to wood. for that more natural thing. has anyone tried this. nothing special tenon out of handle into forearm 3x8-10 alum threaded rod.

wondering if it will hold up over time. i epoxy eveything bc struct. i know its holding up but been considering taking a more natural approach
Click to expand...

Dave if I were you I would send Pete Tascarella an email or just give him a call. Pete uses no epoxy on any of his cues, he builds them just like Goerge use to. I do not know off hand what Pete is using, I know for certain it is not epoxy.

Have a good day Dave!!!!!
 
manwon said:
Dave if I were you I would send Pete Tascarella an email or just give him a call. Pete uses no epoxy on any of his cues, he builds them just like Goerge use to. I do not know off hand what Pete is using, I know for certain it is not epoxy.

Have a good day Dave!!!!!
Click to expand...
I believe another very huge name also only uses wood glue.
 
manwon said:
Dave if I were you I would send Pete Tascarella an email or just give him a call. Pete uses no epoxy on any of his cues, he builds them just like Goerge use to. I do not know off hand what Pete is using, I know for certain it is not epoxy.

Have a good day Dave!!!!!
Click to expand...
thanks pal. I will do that. I think it if it works that well on points it should be fine on a threaded joint. Looking for better tones and feel for the cue
 
The guys in our woodshop were talking about a study they read about the strength of different glues and wood. Titebond 2 actually had a stronger bond on rosewoods than the epoxies they used. Do a Google search and see what you come up with.

**disclaimer-they only used one brand of epoxy so take that FWIW.
 
Think about it. It wasn't too long ago, that there was no epoxy glue. Cues were made for a hundred years with horse hide glue. That glue was no where near as strong, as the wood glue we use today. I see no reason why a complete cue couldn't be held together, with tightbond or other wood glues. JMO...JER
 
I tried it a few times with some experiments. It didn't take me very long to realize that wood glue is trustable strong when clamped tightly, but is very weak if there's any slop. It shrinks when it cures, so your tenon needs to fit very, very tightly into the bore. But the downside to this is wood glue is a fast tack glue so it locks up before you can get the joint completely threaded together. I'm sure it can work and work well, but I couldn't do it. Granted it's been a long time since I tried. Now they have slow tack wood glues like titebond-III, which I think would be a good candidate for this technique. For the same shrinking reasons, wood glue doesn't work well with threads, either, unless there's almost no slop. There's a reason wood glue is strongest when the peices are clamped tightly together. But all you can do is try. You might find something wonderful. What do you have to lose, a couple peices of wood?

I use wood glue on my butt sleeves with no problem. I have never had one buzz yet :)
 
so how many here use wood glue of the a-joint?i can't believe i that i am reading wood glue being condoned as a suitable a-joint glue.
 
masonh said:
so how many here use wood glue of the a-joint?i can't believe i that i am reading wood glue being condoned as a suitable a-joint glue.
Click to expand...
If it's metal screw/stud, better be epoxied.
 
agrred Joey,even if it had a wooden bolt or no bolt,i want something that is going to penetrate into the pores of the wood.the epoxy i use will actually make the wood more solid.

i have seen studies where the good epoxy held boats together that were actually sea worthy,no pins,screws,bolts or nails.the boats were made with only epxoy and they worked.

wood glue might work,but i wouldn't want to trust my cues to a lifetime of play hel together with wood glue.i would think they would buzz later.
 
As for boats, epoxy is uncomparable. Wood glue breaks down in water, so of course it can't be used to hold a boat together. Epoxy will even cure under water, so there's no fault in using it for boats.

I honestly beleive wood glue will hold rock solid & beat epoxy hands down if one can find the right technique. The problem comes with the watery base of wood glue, and the way it shrinks as it cures. If there's any slop at all, it'll be a weak joint. It has to be ultra tight, and if it's tight enough to use wood glue then once the glue is applied then it's not going to fit. But if the right technique can be found, I think it has potential. And what's there to lose by experimenting? If we all did only what we were taught to do & never attempted to push the limits, then cues would be no better now than they were 100 years ago. And as I write this, I have no intentions of switching from my epoxy, but I have already done these experiments & am using what I found to be best for me.
 
Fine Woodworking did a test recently and Titebond was proven stronger than Epoxie or Polyurethane (gorilla) glues. This was of course for wood to wood joints.You can probably find the results online. Good luck, Jim
 
Wood glues work only if they can be forced into the pores of the wood. Which is why high clamping pressures of around 3000 ~ 4000 lbs. are required. Also alot of the exotics that we use don't have much porosity to begin with. You'll never get (or feasably be able to) apply that to a cue. I use 2 ton bonding strength epoxy everywhere on a cue except on ring work where I use cyanos.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Fine Woodworking did a test recently and Titebond was proven stronger than Epoxie or Polyurethane (gorilla) glues. This was of course for wood to wood joints.You can probably find the results online. Good luck, Jim
Click to expand...

Yeah, but that was using a clamp technique. You can't clamp "A" joints. I tried that, too, and the pressure warped the cue pretty badly!!!! I'll be interested to see if anybody can find a solid technique, but i'm doubting it. The glue's strength isn't the question. It's the type of application & whether wood glue can work or not.
 
Been using titebond for my tips and ferrules since the beginning. Ferrules are threaded and the tenon has to be just a perfect fit or you will run into problems as previously mentioned. Not too loose....not too tight....you have too work very fast when screwing them on. If you get them too tight the moisture in the glue swells the wood. I have twisted a few tenons off before I got the equation correct. I have cut them in two, length wise, and I'm very happy with the results. Much easier too replace a ferrule when not using epoxy also, IMO. The threads are what hold the ferrule in place...the glue just acts as a loctite and keeps it from unscrewing itself.
I only use this method on LBM and ivory.........but of course those are the only ferrule materials worth a hoot, IMO.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I only use this method on LBM and ivory.........but of course those are the only ferrule materials worth a hoot, IMO.
Click to expand...
White tail antler tips.;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top